Surefire boring service

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precisionworks

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Received this question by PM and thought some other people might also be interested ...

Just wanted to ask the cost of boring out the small portion on E series bodies that prevents 17670 use?
It's the same price as any other two cell light, as a special fixture has to be machined, the light has to be set up in the fixture & centralized in the lathe chuck, etc.

I imagine that $40 may seem like a lot to charge for a small amount of machine work. The problem is that setup time is the same or just a little bit longer than it is on any other light.
 
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precisionworks

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Just received this question by PM:

I have a JETbeam Raptor RRT-0 with AA extender. I want to use 17500 cells so the AA extender needs to be bored out (it necks down to hold the slimmer AA). How much would something like this cost?
A photo shows what appears to be a fairly thin extender wall:

FrogWildcom_JETBeam_RRT-0_03.jpg


The diameter of the O-ring groove on the extender determines if this is feasible or not. I believe the tube will need to be bored to about .681", so the O-ring groove needs to measure about .721". There is some give in both those numbers, but not a huge amount. If the tube has adequate thickness, cost of this mod is $40 + $5 return shipping.
 
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Rat

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I would like to have two C2's bored please PM sent.

cheers

EDIT: Sorry Barry I just seen your sig email now sent thanks.
 
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precisionworks

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Wow, this must be C2 Week on CPF :nana:

Two coming from Rat is Australia & two more from genius5th.

My shop has been buried in e-call work (emergency call out) and yesterday saw five hours on the lathe making a motor-shaft-to-chain-sprocket adapter. Touchy work as the adapter had one bore that needed to hit within .0003" (.0076mm) and one outside diameter that also had the same tolerance. Managed to nail both those dimensions & the part fits very well. The adapter goes on a motor that makes 380 lb ft (515Nm) of torque, so the material used was 4340 chrome moly shafting. Tough stuff to machine, but the adapter will last for years - running 12 hours per day, 6 days per week.

First two photos shows the size of the gearmotor & the 1.750" diameter output shaft. Surefire E2L Outdoorsman shown for scale:

gearmotor1.jpg


gearmotor2.jpg


The original chain sprocket was bored so that the shaft could be turned down & press fit in. Two hardened dowel pins retain the sprocket and transmit motor torque.

gearmotor3.jpg


From the back end (the end that first goes on the motor shaft) the boring job looks much like that for a light:

gearmotor4.jpg


That job will be almost all finished today, with final installation tomorrow morning, so the lathe will be clean & ready when more lights arrive. Still working on a 24 hour turnaround time, so your light or lights will not be long in my shop.

Shipping is combined whenever possible, and four lights will fit into a Small Flat Rate box unless they are longer than 8" (203mm). Domestic shipping is $5 & international is $14 as long as all the lights will go into the Small Flat Rate box. Each light is wrapped in a thick layer of foam padding, so multiple lights in one package will never touch each other.
 
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Rat

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[FONT=&quot]Hey Barry
The two C2's are on their way from Midway thanks for all your help.
I just noticed you also do M3' in your sig. I will send you a M3 as well but if we could keep the two jobs separate that would be great. I will have you send the M3 elsewhere when you are finished that's why.

cheers

[/FONT]
 

precisionworks

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[FONT=&quot]I just noticed you also do M3's[/FONT]
If you look back at post #16, there are photos of an M2 bored for 18650. The M3 is a longer version of the M2 and is identical to machine, except that the boring tools have another 30mm to travel to enlarge the tube.

[FONT=&quot]I will have you send the M3 elsewhere when you are finished that's why.[/FONT]
No problem, just enclose a note with the light so I can send it to the next stop :devil:
 

precisionworks

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The Post Office carrier left only a pile of bills today :(

Most likely it traveled from Florida to California to New York & is now headed here ... I'll let you know when it arrives.

EDIT: The Brown Truck just left a package that looks a lot like a C2 :)
 
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precisionworks

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I knew Murphy was hiding somewhere in the shop, and last night he appeared :( Trying to hurry up and finish a commercial job on the lathe, boring 4140HT (tougher than nails), pushing the machine pretty hard. Difficult to describe the sound of a lathe feed gear breaking, but sickening comes close. The good news is that the gear is stocked in Memphis, they'll ship it today & it will arrive within 48 hours. Not a problem unless you happen to own one of the five lights sitting on the work bench.

I have the broken gear out of the machine & installing the new one should take only about half an hour. First job is to bore those five lights & ship them out on Saturday. I appreciate everyone's patience. I want to get these bored and shipped almost as badly as you want to get your lights.
 

precisionworks

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You should take more machining pictures!
You're right. I try to remember to take them, but often the time schedule is really tight, especially for customers who are badly in need of a part. My website will be up when the work schedule slows down, done by a friend here in town, and will be photo heavy - some machining, some welding, some industrial electronics.

Installed the big gear motor today (post #46), will work on alignment tomorrow, and do the final control wiring on Friday when a special order air switch arrives. It took only one week to convert their machine from air drive to electric drive, versus 5-6 weeks waiting on industrial parts from Ingersoll-Rand. Really glad to put that job into the books and move on, as it took about 5 hours per day for the last 6 days.

gearmotor5.jpg


gearmotor6.jpg


It will be a nice change to get back to boring lights :)
 
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Rat

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Hi Barry

Again sorry to hear about the machine problems. But on the other hand it's worked out ok for me as I just picked up a M3 on CPF market place so that will be on its way to you to do your magic on it. If you did not have this problem my other two C2's would be on a flight home already.
By the way this is not that other M3 I was talking to you about that one will still be a separate job. If you could keep this new M3 with the C2's that would be good.
So you will need to send me a PM with the total cost of doing the M3 and the extra shipping cost. The M3 is also a complete light.
cheers
 

precisionworks

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Hello William,

The cost for boring a 3-cell light (M3, C3, 9P) is $8 more than a standard 2-cell, so $48 plus shipping.

The more challenging part is figuring out your return shipping cost. I'm 90% sure that your M3 will fit inside the same Large Video Flat Rate carton as the other two C2's ... if so, there will be no additional shipping cost. Keep your fingers crossed & I'll see it there's room for all three with good padding.
 
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precisionworks

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Show time :crackup:

It was hard to get all the girls to hold still & smile, but they did really well:

surefireboring20.jpg


surefireboring19.jpg


Beach Honda's light is far left, then the two black C2's from Rat, and finally the two C2's from genius5th.

Made up a different & better fixture to bore the C-series and M-series lights. They are a bear to hold properly because of different body diameters & also because of the large clip boss that projects from the body. Delrin (acetyl copolymer) was used to make this fixture. First step is an outside diameter clean up cut:

surefireboring13-1.jpg


The center hole was then started with a twist drill & finished with the boring bar:

surefireboring14.jpg


The photo below shows the finish after two boring passes:

surefireboring15-1.jpg


Next the reamer is run through:

surefireboring16-1.jpg


Finally the ball hone is used to refine & clean up any reamer marks:

surefireboring17-1.jpg


The lights will go to the Post Office first thing Monday morning, except for those belonging to Rat ... waiting for his M3 to arrive here.
 

precisionworks

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I thought you'd like to see your lights getting done :)

Forgot to post one photo, showing the way the light is centered in the chuck:

surefireboring18-1.jpg


Hard to read the dial, but it shows that the centering is within +/- .0002" (.0004" total indicated runout). That's really important when working with thin walled tubing, as it assures that the tube walls are uniformly thick after boring.

Check your email - tracking numbers just sent.
 

barry

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Barry,
It's nice to see you take such care in your work. I was wondering how you held the C2/M2s with their irregular surface because of the clip boss. Now I see. I'm also impressed you hone the bores after reaming to improve the finish. Very nice. I'll have to send my new C2.
barry
(Sorry for the Barry-barry confusion.) :thinking:
 
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