Surefire C2 Centurion LED Question

[Roood]

Ah Ok. So the 6P Defender I have is Glossy Black is not type 3 or HA-Nat? So its Type II Black. Correct?

Just to clarify, so the bezel, body and tail cap on my C2 are HA-Nat or Type III Nat?

Really appreciate the replies AOW. Cheers!

 

[angelofwar]

Yes, the 6P/6PD is Type-II Black. There are a few Type-III black C2's floating around out there, but I only have 1 at the moment :devil:. The stock C2-Black is type-II, but there were a few special C2's made in type-III black, namely the Remington and the Emerson C2's. And then there's the fabled C2-CJ...makes me wish I had two left "opposite of bolts"

 

[Roood]

Ah. I think I have seen type III blacks, they are not as polished or shiny as the type II's. Before I thought all SF's are HA or Type III in different colors.

 

[rumack]

@Rumack: Why would they drop the P60 format? Or are you referring to the P60 incandescent?

I was referring to both the incandescent and LED models that were designed to accept an easily replaced incandescent or LED module. (My apologies if you already know the following stuff.) The 6P, Z2, C2, and G2 incan models used to be available with an LED module that looked a lot like the incan bulb module but was an LED. Some of the 3 cell versions of these models were available with the LED module, too. All of these were capable of accepting aftermarket LED P60 sized drop-ins like those made by Gene Malkoff. The Surefire LED module was called the P60L. In my opinion it was a decent drop-in with a nice beam and was a good way to get longer burn times out of your batteries. But it wasn't nearly as impressive as drop-ins like those by Malkoff (again, IMHO) and wasn't available in different outputs and different tints. Surefire has been discontinuing their models that accept P60 sized modules and replacing them with models like the 6PZ and Z2X that have sealed heads.

I suspect Vox Clamatis in Deserto is correct, either Surefire thought aftermarket drop-ins were cutting into their business or they view the new models are part of cost cutting moves. Maybe some of both. I think it's unfortunate. I like the ability to replace the light engine with an incan or LED module of my choice and I hate to see that go away.

 

[Roood]

Thanks for the clarification. As for the sealed heads, I think you are right, it's cost cutting and Malkoff makes better drop-ins (IMHO too), even SF discontinues P60 formats I'm sure Malkoff won't stop, just as long as he doesn't I will still keep my P60 format lights.

 

[5Sport]

HOLY THREAD JACK

What a Thread Jack.

Ok, so I scored a C2 Centurion HA III with an ican bulb and one of the P61 LED's. I used the LED in a Solarforce host that I had, and dropped my Malkoff M61L in the C2...Yea.

Oh yes, and the head is a slightly different color than the body. My older C3 HA III is thye same color (body and head)

Thanks all

 

[Roood]

Re: HOLY THREAD JACK

What kind of LED is the C2 LED using again? I have the 80lumens one. P60L. Whats the lifespan on this?

TIA.

- Rod

 

[angelofwar]

Re: HOLY THREAD JACK

P60L ~ 50,000 hours. So, it'll probably get destroyed, or you'll be dead, before it burns out.

The newer one's use the KX4, where the "module/emitter" is "sealed" in the head. This is essentially what WAS going to be the P61L, but the drop-in couldn't handle the heat, so they built the head around the module, giving it better thermal management properties. Most LED's are properly managed in the light design, and will last "forever" as far as you should be concerned. Some of the older LED's had 10,000 hours life spans, but, again, that YEARS of continous use, so it's really a mute point, until you get into custom, over driven emitters. Some mfg's that over drive the emitters will have shorter life spans, but since all this LED stuff is relatively new, no has had the chance to find out. The old Lux-V emitters on the older Sure L4's have been known to "die", where they lose about half there out-put, but this is after several years of hours of use a day. These Lux-V's were being driven near there max though.

 

[Roood]

Hey Aow. So that's why I couldn't find a P61L drop in! Was planning to get a KX4 but the local store only had the BK, no HA or BKHA. I needed it for my C2. But frankly after reading the post of Rawhide (on the Discontinued Stocking up SF thread) about how he was disappointed with SF, I'm having second thoughts. Dropped by the local store to check out the KX4 and noticed the soldering sucks. I mean heck I can do a better job in soldering the thing. Not what I expect from SureFire. But still happy with my C2. =)

 

[Roood]

By the way, does anyone know if it's possible to remove an LED lamp from a KX4? Is this even possible?

TIA!

 

[purelite]

I have been told by poeple in the know that "mismatched" annodized parts are not an issue of QC at Surefire or a bad anno process at all. SF makes parts at different times and in different batches. The pieces that may be used in creating your light were more than likely not all done at the same time as one unit. The Z41 tailcaps for example are used on many models . When SF does a run of those tailcaps they do BIG lots. Then when they need to do a run of the C2 or whatever they take what they need from those lots. It makes sense financially for a business to do as a large a run as possible so as to bring down the cost of each individual unit. So thats why your Z44 head or Z41 tailcap or C2 body never seem to quite match exactly. Also it's pretty much known that SF does not spend valuable man hours matching the color on parts during assembly of lights. That would increase cost and is purely cosmetic. Remember its a tool not a collectors piece to be put in a glass case right? ( I have been dying to say this to someone else , hehe )

I actually like the differing shades. It accents all the great lines of SF lights and is almost like camoflage on some of them

 

[Roood]

Well, its a fun hobby to collect flashlights. And regarding mis-matched parts, thats only if the they look good. Some people dont take too kindly to mis-matched lights if they look crappy. Some find it ok. But I do agree that it does provide an "accent" on the lights. =)

 

[Rawhide]

How come SF lights cant take the heat if turned on for a long period of time? The KX4 I got heats up like crazy after 5 minutes.

Roood PM for you.

 

[jhamm12]

Ok, so lastnight I spent hours searching the forums to find out how to remove the LED from my G2L KX4 head. I came across a thread that said to boil water and dip the bezel ring in to heat it up and then remove the bezel. Didn't work....and I broke 4 acrylic bezel removal tools trying. (Good Times!) Then I find this thread......luckily my KX4 and lens still look great. But I'm disappointed I can't drop in my Nailbender to test it out. So you guys with G2's using Malkoff's and Nailbender's, what bezel head did you use for your drop-in? Will the Nitrolon bezel from a G2 handle the increased heat? Will the surefire lens handle the heat? Has anyone figured out how to open the KX4 head yet (without breaking it)? I have faith in you guys....the whole forum is counting on you to crack the code and pave the way for the P60 drop-in to live on......LONG LIVE THE P60!!! Thanks for the help.