Surefire KL4 XP-G

[darkzero]

Nice one!!

Ya beat me to it..:laughing:

PM sent

 

[ROK]

Looks like you filed down a 10mm round. I have some 8mm rounds on order (but not in stock right now) to avoid that hassle. I also have some 10mm rounds on order if I can't wait that long for the 8mm.

What focus height is your tower? Seoul? Lux? What's your driver?

Can you measure the total height of the XP-G package from bottom of the MCPCB to the top of the square ceramic substrate. I would assume that it is close to 2mm + 0.58mm. Does it look like the XP-G die sits at the same level as the top of the ceramic substrate? I'm trying to estimate the XP-G die height to see how close it is to a Seoul focus.

My plan is to mount the XP-G on a Seoul focus tower, driving it with an SOB1185 (that's what I happen to have in my parts drawer, would have preferred an SOB1000). I plan to test the XP-G tower in an SRTH, T-62, KT1/2, and KT4 and compare it to P4 and MC-E towers.

I built this for my friend and used Lux Tower Module, SOB1000 and Cutter's 10mm MCPCB (2mm thickness).
It looks XP-G die is same level as the top of the ceramic base.
The total height from bottom to the top of the ceramic is about 2.8mm.
In my calculation, mine is slightly lower than Lux5.

You have to know the quality of reflow soldering is not good. LED is not flat and inclined.
So, I had to fix it. :hairpull: :whoopin:

Now I cannot test it with turbo head because I sold all mine.
But I believe this will shows good result.

 

[octaf]

very nice, ROK ! :thumbsup:

 

[Justin Case]

I built this for my friend and used Lux Tower Module, SOB1000 and Cutter's 10mm MCPCB (2mm thickness).
It looks XP-G die is same level as the top of the ceramic base.
The total height from bottom to the top of the ceramic is about 2.8mm.
In my calculation, mine is slightly lower than Lux5.

You have to know the quality of reflow soldering is not good. LED is not flat and inclined.
So, I had to fix it. :hairpull: :whoopin:

Now I cannot test it with turbo head because I sold all mine.
But I believe this will shows good result.

Thank you. That is very helpful. If you still have the assembled tower (or an empty one), can you also measure the length of the stem from the top face of the large flange to the top of the tower (or for the assembled unit, to the interface between the tower and the XP-G MCPCB)? For my Seoul focus AW tower, that length is 20.47mm (0.806"). For a Netkidz tower, it is 20.015mm (0.788"). The difference is 0.46mm, which is just about the same as the difference between your 2.8mm measurement and the case height of a Seoul P4 (2.38mm from the datasheet). Thus, it would seem that the Netkidz tower could put the XP-G/MCPCB at the correct focus height.

If the AW Lux focus tower is say about 0.4mm shorter than the Seoul focus tower, then perhaps the XP-G/MCPCB is also close enough to the right focus height.

Edit: From things like Blackhawk Gladius mods, I now recall that one needs to raise a Seoul P4 up by 0.03" to put its die at the same focus height as a Lux die. Thus, I would assume that an AW Lux focus stem's height is 0.03" (0.76mm) shorter than for an AW Seoul focus stem. So, if you get an AW Lux focus tower, you need to raise up the XP-G/MCPCB by about 0.3mm, or 0.01". I've found that some Amerimax brand 5"x7" aluminum step flashing from Home Depot measures 0.011" thick. The stuff cuts easily with a regular pair of scissors, so you can cut a little 8mm disc for a shim (or even punch out a disc using a paper hole punch).

 

[kz1000s1]

Looks like you filed down a 10mm round. I have some 8mm rounds on order (but not in stock right now) to avoid that hassle. I also have some 10mm rounds on order if I can't wait that long for the 8mm.

Are these bare 8mm boards or with emitters? I'd like to get some with emitters for Seoul upgrades. Where did you get them?

 

[toby_pra]

You need to sell me this head.....wuuuuussssssaaaaaaa

 

[js-lots]

HAHA I already did mine.
I prefer keep original form factor. So I didn't touch the head and filed down a MCPCB.
I'm satisfied with beam quality.
I'll add some glowing epoxy or reflective sheet to cover the urgly face.

where do you buy the reflective sheet and glow epoxy? Is the reflective sheet electrically conductive? Thanks, Kenny

 

[Justin Case]

Are these bare 8mm boards or with emitters? I'd like to get some with emitters for Seoul upgrades. Where did you get them?

CPF B/S/T forum has various posts selling bare XP-G emitters. You can get empty 8mm XP-E/XP-G MCPCBs from The Sandwich Shoppe.

The 10mm MCPCBs use a very soft aluminum. They are easily trimmed using small diagonal wire cutters and then filed down to the final size.

 

[rlowe]

I believe I'm going to try this for my first Mod. I have a couple of questions though. I haven't taken the KL4 apart yet so I don't understand why you used an emitter on a PCB can the Lux not be removed and replaced with a bare XPG? Also, can I run the Battery Junction 3.6 volt RCR123A cells in this mod or in a stock KL4 or will the higher voltage blow the driver?

Thanks,
Richard

 

[DaFABRICATA]

I believe I'm going to try this for my first Mod. I have a couple of questions though. I haven't taken the KL4 apart yet so I don't understand why you used an emitter on a PCB can the Lux not be removed and replaced with a bare XPG? Also, can I run the Battery Junction 3.6 volt RCR123A cells in this mod or in a stock KL4 or will the higher voltage blow the driver?

Thanks,
Richard

Hello Richard,
The reason the XP-G on the 10mm X 2mm thick board is used is to raise the emitter up into the reflector making it focus correctly. A shim will also need to be made to fill the cavity where the old Lux V was and make it even with the rest of the heatsink. You can use a bare XP-G if you want but a thick shim will need to be made to raise it to focus properly.
Unless you replace the driver, you can only use a single RCR123, 16430, 17670 or 18650 for rechargable options. I suggest using 2 x primaries.
DO NOT USE 2 X 3.6V Rechargables! You will blow the driver!

The easiest way to do this mod, is the way I explained above.
Two oposing sides of the 10mm board need to be filed flat so it can sit up into the pocket where the Lux V used to be.

Take the head apart and it will all become clear.
Good luck!:wave:

 

[rlowe]

Thanks DaFab:

I ordered an emitter on a PCB from cutter.

 

[Justin Case]

Running the KL4 driver with a 3.xV load like the XP-G probably means that the driver is effectively running in direct drive, not boost mode. It would be interesting if you put the light in front of a lux meter and tallied the lux data vs time. Although not definitive, since heat and the ability of the battery to hold its voltage under load can confuse the data interpretation, that might help to confirm DD behavior.

Did you ever get a chance to measure the tail current draw?