Tana Light Engines for McGizmo lights (Haiku, Mule) and modding service...

[kaichu dento]

You may want to take a look at 3500k osram oslon LEDs. Their tint is great, but you will need to source the matching board, cause Tana doesnt have them

I'm pretty sure that my spot is actually right there in the 3500-3700k range and have been a bit frustrated to see 500k increments only above the 4000k mark.

Are you a warm tint guy and do you have any experience with the Osram 3500k?

 

[Tana]

Tana :wave: the work you deliver and the resulting buzz marketing isn´t too bad I´d say so taking marketing lessons isn´t really necessary (..... unless you want to employ your neighbor as a real modder maybe ).

Cheers
Eric .....who has an old L1 head that could use a TripLED mod some time....

Holy cow, Eric... it's been centuries since last contact... glad to see you're still around...

 

[archimedes]

.... Next is to decide which emitters to go with, as my experience has been that 3000k is a bit too warm and 4000k too far the other direction. On the other hand, I've never seen the XP-L HI or the XP-G2, in any range. Maybe the 219b will prove to be the safest choice, as I'm pretty much a fan of most Nichia emitters I've seen, or owned....

You may want to take a look at 3500k osram oslon LEDs....

I'm pretty sure that my spot is actually right there in the 3500-3700k range and have been a bit frustrated to see 500k increments only above the 4000k mark.

Are you a warm tint guy and do you have any experience with the Osram 3500k?

Yes, I have experience with all 4 of the emitters mentioned above ....

With the usual caveats that emitters vary substantially within bins (let alone among bins) , and that what we are talking about here is purely personal preference, the Osram is my favorite of those listed.

I generally prefer CCT right around 4000 - 4300K . In my Spyglass by @calipsoii there is an Oslon 3500K high CRI which is fantastic. I think I perhaps might prefer the 4000K , but (at the time) I believe the high CRI versions were not readily available.

I have other flashlights and light engines (mostly McGizmo Aleph and similar) with XP-L and XP-G2 of various bins, from 4000 - 5000K . Although most of these are fine for me, the best of these is an XP-L 4000K . I'm not certain of the exact CRI rating of each of these, but in the examples I have, subjectively I get more color "pop" out of that XP-L .

I know that the N219 series are very popular around CPF, but for whatever reason, do not appeal to me nearly as much as the N119 . I do have a single brilliant example of hand-picked and matched N219 5000K triple emitters (in a custom @Vinz dropin) , which is bright pure neutral snow white with excellent color rendition, but that is "cooler" than my usual preference.

 

[staticx57]

I know that the N219 series are very popular around CPF, but for whatever reason, do not appeal to me nearly as much as the N119 . I do have a single brilliant example of hand-picked and matched N219 5000K triple emitters (in a custom @Vinz dropin) , which is bright pure neutral snow white with excellent color rendition, but that is "cooler" than my usual preference.

That you say this still puzzles me. The ONLY difference between a 119 and a 219 is the solder pad. That's it. It is more likely you are experiencing generational differences 119V versus 219B or tint/bin differences over anything else

 

[archimedes]

That you say this still puzzles me. The ONLY difference between a 119 and a 219 is the solder pad. That's it. It is more likely you are experiencing generational differences 119V versus 219B or tint/bin differences over anything else

Comparing data sheets for N119_NCSL119B-V1-E and N219_NVSL219A-H3 , I see differences in Vf, power dissipation, and other physical and electrical specifications, in addition to (of course) flux / tint / CRI bins ....

Were there other (unspecified, undocumented) differences from the era or generation of the N119 and N219 series ? Such as phosphor composition or thickness ? Or ???

Possibly. Most likely. Almost certainly.

I don't know, and am not an expert in emitter manufacturing.

What I do know, though, is I've seen and used hundreds (probably thousands) of different LEDs ... including dozens of N119 and N219 (and N083, etc) ... and have found some consistent patterns in those used by flashlight manufacturers and modders, and to my own subjective perception.

Now, are those emitters a tiny (and perhaps non-representative) sample of the universe of Nichia LEDs ? Yes indeed.

So, when I use discuss the N119 and N219 in this way, that's what I am using as reference ... my own vision and experience.

It may well be due to some other difference between the emitters made by Nichia in the "119 era" versus those they made "219 era" :shrug:

Since kaichu was asking for an opinion from someone who had personal experience with all of these, and who has a preference for warm tint / high color rendition emitters, that's all I have to go on

 

[ma tumba]

...Are you a warm tint guy and do you have any experience with the Osram 3500k?

Yes and yes. I got a Meteor from CPF member Plata/// who replaced the Nichias by the 3500K Oslons. The color temperature is about perfect (more on this later), and at first I was very happy about its color rendition until I compared it side by side with a well overdriven incand bulb. To my great surprise, the Oslons were considerably inferior in rendering blue color that the formally "warmer" incand. The difference in quality here was very noticeable. So now I don't know...

Now some general stuff. I have come to the conclusion that there are two very distinct LED CCT ranges that I see as "natural". First one is 2700-3500, which look natural because these LEDs mimic the natural incand tint. There may be some difference in tints, CRI but the dominating point is whether I perceive the light as a quality substitute for an incand. The second rabge is 4500-5500, which looks natural since it mimics sunlight. 4500 at sunset and 5500 at noon, kind of.

Anything that I have seen between these ranges, ie from 3500 to 4500 was not natural to me because those CCTs did not resemble any natural, familiar light source. I am looking foward to receiving Tana's mule LE with 4000K, which Tarik has praised so highly, to see how it looks like.

 

[Eric242]

Holy cow, Eric... it's been centuries since last contact... glad to see you're still around...

Yes it´s been a while....guilty. I´ve been busy preparing buying my bosses company..... and now that I´m my own boss (actually we are three associates) I´ve even less time..... but I hope it will get better in may/june. And then I think I might get in touch regarding the L1 and/or a Haiku head

Cheers
Eric

 

[ma tumba]

Although most of these are fine for me, the best of these is an XP-L 4000K . I'm not certain of the exact CRI rating of each of these, but in the examples I have, subjectively I get more color "pop" out of that XP-L .

Tarik has been a strong proponent of XP-L for his triples, so I would be very interested to hear your impressions of variations of these LEDs. What configorations you tried and what you think of them?

 

[archimedes]

So, just thinking offhand, in addition to that 4000K XP-L Aleph light engine built for me by @datiLED (my favorite so far, and I'd guess at pretty much centered on that rated CCT) ....

I also have an Okluma triple XP-L in 4000K which seems a bit warmer to me. It has a beautiful creamy, almost caramel, tint. Without measuring it, I'd guess the true CCT might be more like 3700 - 3800K.

On the other end of the "4000K" XP-L bin is an Aleph built for me by SOYCD, which he measured at 4300 - 4400K, and I concur looks like that to me.

Most recently, I got the Oveready BOSS in 4500K XP-L V6 3B (redomed) and find it just too "cool" for my taste. Yes, it is still on the warm side of 5000K which is what I consider to be the dividing line between warm and cool, but I was not able to get any of the 4000K XP-L HI run.

Hope that's helpful

 

[K2-bk-bl-rd]

I just ordered a V5 e-series/ scout head with the XPL redome, which I am eager to try. (4500k is my favorite tint) The 4000k XPL-HI in my Boss 70 is also Fantastic. The N119 or XPG2, that Don uses, are still my favorite though!

 

[tab665]

i scanned through the thread and i dont think this has been asked yet... do you have any 3v driver options?

 

[Seanedc]

Would you mind sending me a PM? My account seems to be childproof I can't message you. Thank you

 

[Tana]

i scanned through the thread and i dont think this has been asked yet... do you have any 3v driver options?

No proper 3V options for now...

 

[Tana]

Would you mind sending me a PM? My account seems to be childproof I can't message you. Thank you

PM replied... first post should have email contact which I do prefer (so I can keep history)...

 

[gonzalu]

Hi Tana... can you change your links to IMGUR or another image host? Photobucket is now charging for third party hosting and all your pics are broken

On a related note, I have a McGizmo Haiku I would love to mod to a triple LED setup. Is that still possible?

Thank you!

 

[Tana]

Hi Tana... can you change your links to IMGUR or another image host? Photobucket is now charging for third party hosting and all your pics are broken

On a related note, I have a McGizmo Haiku I would love to mod to a triple LED setup. Is that still possible?

Thank you!

Hi, gonzalu... I'm working on replacing all old links with new, lost quite some time downloading all my photos back from PhotoBucket... so new links/photos should be up in few days...

In the meantime, you can contact me via email for details:

 

[gonzalu]

Thanks Tana... great speaking with you. My head is on its way to you. CAN'T WAIT for the return

I hope Photobucket burns in hell. They have broken thousands of Forums

Also, I have today Nitecore RCR123A. Will I need a 16340 Cell IMR after mod? I use Keeppower on my Hanko Trident now.

Thank you again!

 

[rioimmagina]

Hello, after a month of daily use of my AA haiku modded by Master Tana, I'm glad to report that such flashlight is the ultimate EDC, or the closest next.
The craftmanship is just superb, as expected from a piece coming from McGizmo and Tana. When I showed it to my girlfriend (which knows nothing about flashlights), she just exclaimed something like "wow, this is the ultimate tool!". That's jewelry.
And the power. Oh, the power. With a 14500 efest (10A), the thing screams. Really, in direct drive the flux is insane.
Obviously, the turbo level makes no sense on such tiny a light. I set my high at 25% and is plenty bright while keeping the temperature in check.
Dr. Jones H17f is the deal in terms of drivers.
What can I say? Happy customer here.
Now, Tana, when you want to mod HDS lights, well, here I am.
Cheers

 

[greatscoot]

Tarik,

I would presume that these engines would fit the Sundrop XRU head with out issue.

Scott

 

[Tana]

Hello, after a month of daily use of my AA haiku modded by Master Tana, I'm glad to report that such flashlight is the ultimate EDC, or the closest next.
The craftmanship is just superb, as expected from a piece coming from McGizmo and Tana. When I showed it to my girlfriend (which knows nothing about flashlights), she just exclaimed something like "wow, this is the ultimate tool!". That's jewelry.
And the power. Oh, the power. With a 14500 efest (10A), the thing screams. Really, in direct drive the flux is insane.
Obviously, the turbo level makes no sense on such tiny a light. I set my high at 25% and is plenty bright while keeping the temperature in check.
Dr. Jones H17f is the deal in terms of drivers.
What can I say? Happy customer here.
Now, Tana, when you want to mod HDS lights, well, here I am.
Cheers

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

As far as HDS, I did mod few but up to LED swap (and not the latest models, there is some kind of change and last rotary I had was somewhat different design from previous HDS's I swapped LEDs in so no mod on that one)... for driver, no modding there... fully potted and work of art so it always stays the same...