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Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: The Haiku: why the 3S McClickie lights have surpassed the PD lights!
As much as I love the PD mechanism, I'm with fyrstormer on this one. The McClickie switch inside the C pak is VERY well protected. If you put a McClickie inside a SF LOTC to change it to a clicky, and you drop the light tail first, then you end up giving the switch a good whack. And, in the case of the SF A2 LOTC, this often damages the internals. I don't know how often a McClickie would get damaged in these conditions, but it certainly can't be good to get whacked right on the plunger! Inside the C pak, however, it is protected from anything but a direct poke with a small diameter rod or stick. So, kind of unlikely to accidentally happen. The McClickie switch has a very good record of reliability--on a par with the kilroy spring in use in the PD lights I would guess, although I could certainly be wrong.
But, in any case, the McClickie is a sealed, no maintenance switch that will last pretty much indefinitely for most users. In my first post above I said "arguably less reliable switch" as a con of the 3S lights. But just because you can make the argument in theory doesn't mean that it turns out to be bourn out in practice. Further, the PD lights do need regular maintenance. They really do. They will take neglect and abuse for a while, but eventually it ends up impacting things. If the lube goes away on the o-rings and threads, you'll have wear there and a less smooth action. And, in my experience lube can and does get places where it is not wanted and needed, like on the contact "C" ring for the high level. And without lube, o-rings will wear down over time. If I were giving a light to a friend or family member who was not a geeky gadget flashaholic freak like myself, I would definitely opt for a Clickie pak light over a PD, and I would have a much higher confidence that it would continue to function as advertised, stay water tight, and be as usable as when first given to them. I mean, personally, I LOVE to maintain my lights. It gives me a just a little of that honeymoon feeling I got when first receiving and getting to know the light. But for many people (if not most people) maintenance is a pain or is out-of-sight-out-of-mind. For them, the C Pak is the best and most reliable choice.
And, as far as heads go, the Haiku and SunDrops and LunaSol's--which all lack a bezel ring--are more durable and drop-resistant than the Ti-PD-S lights or any of the older PD lights with bezel rings. In the Haiku, the lens is sandwiched between two o-rings, which is ideal, and the front lip/edge of the head is integral with the rest of the head--it's one piece. Not so with the bezel-ring lights. The one side of the lens is against metal, which is less than great, and dropping the light head first can dent or deform the bezel ring and/or crack the lens. It's not likely to happen, of course! But it can happen, and this is the reason why Don went to the newer method of holding the lens in place that started with the LunaSol 20 (or before?).
I don't know, I mean, I'm not trying to start a PD vs. clickie flame war here! I LOVE the PD lights! And I can understand why some people prefer them. Absolutely! But, I just feel strongly that calling the clickie switch lights "less reliable" needs to be put in perspective here: yes, in terms of a switching mechanism it is arguably less reliable, but in the context of a whole light, I feel pretty strongly that my Haiku is every bit as reliable as my LunaSol 20, if not more so.
Despite the very minor artifact of the 3S regulation that has recently come to light, I am still 100 percent pro-3S regulator. It's a highly efficient, very sophisticated and high quality regulator using some very high end chips, with the very best switching scheme yet invented, as far as I can tell. Only a few weeks into owning my Haiku, I am now able to switch levels at more or less the speed of thought. OK. That's a small exaggeration. But it does feel that way! It's so quick and easy to switch levels! Seriously awesome and intuitive at this point after just a few weeks. I can switch to whatever level I want in less than a second! And this is NOT an exaggeration. If you haven't tried the 3S, you really owe it to yourself to do so.
And keep in mind that I started out VERY skeptical about this whole smart-light micro-controlled 3S light THING. I was very much a PD guy. VERY much. And it's not that the PD has somehow suddenly gotten worse. And it's not that I wouldn't still LOVE it if Don were able to put out a new line of PD lights--I WOULD BUY ONE FOR SURE! But it's that the 3S is better. Overall, it's just better. In my personal opinion! YMMV! Again, not trying to start a flame war or say anything negative against the PD lights. Because I love them. I'm just trying to rave about the 3S lights. Because I love them a little bit more.
FWIW. Take it or leave it!
As much as I love the PD mechanism, I'm with fyrstormer on this one. The McClickie switch inside the C pak is VERY well protected. If you put a McClickie inside a SF LOTC to change it to a clicky, and you drop the light tail first, then you end up giving the switch a good whack. And, in the case of the SF A2 LOTC, this often damages the internals. I don't know how often a McClickie would get damaged in these conditions, but it certainly can't be good to get whacked right on the plunger! Inside the C pak, however, it is protected from anything but a direct poke with a small diameter rod or stick. So, kind of unlikely to accidentally happen. The McClickie switch has a very good record of reliability--on a par with the kilroy spring in use in the PD lights I would guess, although I could certainly be wrong.
But, in any case, the McClickie is a sealed, no maintenance switch that will last pretty much indefinitely for most users. In my first post above I said "arguably less reliable switch" as a con of the 3S lights. But just because you can make the argument in theory doesn't mean that it turns out to be bourn out in practice. Further, the PD lights do need regular maintenance. They really do. They will take neglect and abuse for a while, but eventually it ends up impacting things. If the lube goes away on the o-rings and threads, you'll have wear there and a less smooth action. And, in my experience lube can and does get places where it is not wanted and needed, like on the contact "C" ring for the high level. And without lube, o-rings will wear down over time. If I were giving a light to a friend or family member who was not a geeky gadget flashaholic freak like myself, I would definitely opt for a Clickie pak light over a PD, and I would have a much higher confidence that it would continue to function as advertised, stay water tight, and be as usable as when first given to them. I mean, personally, I LOVE to maintain my lights. It gives me a just a little of that honeymoon feeling I got when first receiving and getting to know the light. But for many people (if not most people) maintenance is a pain or is out-of-sight-out-of-mind. For them, the C Pak is the best and most reliable choice.
And, as far as heads go, the Haiku and SunDrops and LunaSol's--which all lack a bezel ring--are more durable and drop-resistant than the Ti-PD-S lights or any of the older PD lights with bezel rings. In the Haiku, the lens is sandwiched between two o-rings, which is ideal, and the front lip/edge of the head is integral with the rest of the head--it's one piece. Not so with the bezel-ring lights. The one side of the lens is against metal, which is less than great, and dropping the light head first can dent or deform the bezel ring and/or crack the lens. It's not likely to happen, of course! But it can happen, and this is the reason why Don went to the newer method of holding the lens in place that started with the LunaSol 20 (or before?).
I don't know, I mean, I'm not trying to start a PD vs. clickie flame war here! I LOVE the PD lights! And I can understand why some people prefer them. Absolutely! But, I just feel strongly that calling the clickie switch lights "less reliable" needs to be put in perspective here: yes, in terms of a switching mechanism it is arguably less reliable, but in the context of a whole light, I feel pretty strongly that my Haiku is every bit as reliable as my LunaSol 20, if not more so.
Despite the very minor artifact of the 3S regulation that has recently come to light, I am still 100 percent pro-3S regulator. It's a highly efficient, very sophisticated and high quality regulator using some very high end chips, with the very best switching scheme yet invented, as far as I can tell. Only a few weeks into owning my Haiku, I am now able to switch levels at more or less the speed of thought. OK. That's a small exaggeration. But it does feel that way! It's so quick and easy to switch levels! Seriously awesome and intuitive at this point after just a few weeks. I can switch to whatever level I want in less than a second! And this is NOT an exaggeration. If you haven't tried the 3S, you really owe it to yourself to do so.
And keep in mind that I started out VERY skeptical about this whole smart-light micro-controlled 3S light THING. I was very much a PD guy. VERY much. And it's not that the PD has somehow suddenly gotten worse. And it's not that I wouldn't still LOVE it if Don were able to put out a new line of PD lights--I WOULD BUY ONE FOR SURE! But it's that the 3S is better. Overall, it's just better. In my personal opinion! YMMV! Again, not trying to start a flame war or say anything negative against the PD lights. Because I love them. I'm just trying to rave about the 3S lights. Because I love them a little bit more.
FWIW. Take it or leave it!