Nice! I've been wondering if this mod was doable....
TITAN PLUS
- Thread starter Bullzeyebill
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Bucur
Enlightened
The worst that could happen would be ending up with a surface that is not plane (undulations) or a plane that is not perpendicular to the body of the flashlight. Brass is a soft metal so it would not be intimidating to grind with a coarse file. The challenge would be filing it flat and perpendicular. Personally, I would not attempt this if I did not have access to a lathe.
I took the plunge and bought the Titan Plus over on the WTS thread.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-300-lumens-like-new-70&p=4896413#post4896413
This thread didn't scare me away.
But at 300 lumens from an AAA battery I had to try it. I have lots of other AAA lights but none go over 180 lumens unless they take a 10440.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-300-lumens-like-new-70&p=4896413#post4896413
This thread didn't scare me away.
But at 300 lumens from an AAA battery I had to try it. I have lots of other AAA lights but none go over 180 lumens unless they take a 10440.
CLHC
Flashaholic
Awesome thread going on here. I just got my SF.Titan+ 2 days ago and am more than satisfied with it.
Question on the lanyard cap end. Does one need a Channellock to unscrew it?
Question on the lanyard cap end. Does one need a Channellock to unscrew it?
bartko09
Enlightened
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Does anyone know what the thread pitch is on the Titan & Titan Plus? I believe it's 33TPI but looking for confirmation. Thanks!!
Bucur
Enlightened
Inserting a screw driver or any rod that would pass through the hook would do job w/o damaging the anodising.
CLHC
Flashaholic
Thanks! True on that, sure don't want to damage the the eye overly much.
Kif
Enlightened
Got two Titan plus and both LEDs are way off centered.
The hotspot is round though
The hotspot is round though
Just got my Titan plus and I like it. A bit big for an AAA light but then it feels very solid for an aluminum light. The beam profile is great but a bit greenish. I also wish you could remove the tail cap keychain thingee. But overall a very nice light.
doctordun
Enlightened
I could be wrong, but I believe this is a brass light and that is supposed to aid in heat dissipation.
archimedes
Flashaholic
Yes, the AAA Titan Plus ( Titan-B ) is nickel-plated brass.
The AAA Titan ( Titan-A ) is hard-anodized aluminum.
jon_slider
Flashlight Enthusiast
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imo a hacksaw and some sanding will get it done
some pics here
however, I just learned that Brass has risk of Lead exposure:
"ordinary brass keys like you'll find in your pocket or pocketbook to lock and unlock your house door – may expose you to the toxic chemical lead"
I also thought Brass was similar to copper, but its actually not as good at heat dissipation at all. It is also not as good at conducting electricity.
Copper conducts heat almost Twice as much as Aluminum
aluminum conducts heat about twice as much as Brass
brass about twice stainless
stainless twice as much as titanium
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...als-d_858.html
Copper conducts 223 BTU
Aluminum conducts 118 BTU
Brass conducts 64 BTU
Stainless conducts 26 BTU
Titanium conducts 13 BTU
You can see below that electrical conductivity follows similar ranking
===
I also thought Brass was an excellent conductor, and it is 2x better than Stainless, but, it is actually half as conductive as aluminum, and twice as heavy.
here is a chart from this page that says
"Brass however – which contains copper – is far less conductive because it is made up of additional materials that lower its conductivity, making it unsuitable for electrical purposes."
| Material IACS (International Annealed Copper Standard) | ||
| Ranking | Metal | % Conductivity* |
| 1 | Silver (Pure) | 105% |
| 2 | Copper | 100% |
| 3 | Gold (Pure) | 70% |
| 4 | Aluminum | 61% |
| 5 | Brass | 28% |
| 6 | Zinc | 27% |
| 7 | Nickel | 22% |
| 8 | Iron (Pure) | 17% |
| 9 | Tin | 15% |
| 10 | Phosphor Bronze | 15% |
| 11 | Steel (Stainless included) | 3-15% |
| 12 | Lead (Pure) | 7% |
| 13 | Nickel Aluminum Bronze | 7% |
So companies that sell us Brass lights, are not really doing us any heat or electrical conductivity favors, even though we all think Brass is similar to Copper, brass actually only conducts about 1/4 as well as copper.
hth
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Kestrel
Flashaholic
One big thing about brass is that it machines very easily - important for the manufacturing engineers at SF. On the other hand, copper is extraordinarily difficult to machine.
Also; for a fixed-size part, brass performs quite well for storing heat:
Edit: Although I haven't actually held either model of Titan, I suspect that one of the reasons brass was chosen to provide a more premium 'hand feel' compared to more common aluminum AAA lights perhaps ??
Jurassic Park said:
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jon_slider
Flashlight Enthusiast
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interesting points, here are some alternative interpretations
Lumintop has no problem machining the Copper Tool, Copper Worm, Copper Prometheus Beat, and Copper Maratac
imo storing heat is not a benefit when trying to move heat away from the LED. Stainless and Titanium have similar heat insulating properties.
imo Surefire chose brass because it is not going to get as warm as aluminum, when using the 300lumen mode.
Basically, they used a material with lower heat conductivity, and higher mass, which I think is intended to keep the light feeling cool in the users hand. But it accomplishes by storing heat, as you said, instead of dissipating it.
I suspect similar heat insulation motivation by Olight, in the 180 Lumen Brass i3s. That is a raw brass light, and as such exposes the user to Lead.
The Titan Plus has a Nickel plating that isolates the brass away from contact with the user.
Thanks to everyone for all the details in this thread. This light is tempting, but looking closely at the measurements it would be too long for my own pocket carry, weight aside. My DQG AAA aluminum slim goes unnoticed in my pocket so it's always with me and the two brightness levels suffice for my humble needs. The measurements for the Titan Plus AAA are almost exactly the same as my EagleTac D25A, which is a AA, and I keep a lithium in that one as its supported, and very bright, it also has a rear clicky button, yet same length as Titan. By eye, it's volume/size is almost double the DQG, so even the EagleTac sits at home. The Titan can be had on Amazon for $73.00, so it's still tempting, but I am trying to resist as I doubt it will ever travel in my pocket, and would just be another small AAA in my modest collection. Thanks again for all the informational posts!
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CLHC
Flashaholic
I'm really liking this SF.Titan+ straightaway as soon as I received it. Pocketable EDC is no trouble. Comparison with my Kaweco AL Sport FP and the two batteries:
Flash On Folks!
Flash On Folks!
I have had this light for a while now and I like it because I find myself carrying it more times than not. I have not done a full run to see how long the battery actually last nor have I figured out how often I need to recharge the battery or swap it out. I do swap it out once every couple of week and I always have an extra battery in my bag/car.
That explains why it felt heavy for an aluminum light.
I like copper and brass lights, although I'm aware that brass isn't as good as copper for heat dissipation. But then I like stainless steel lights too which is even worse than brass, and titanium worse than stainless. But then I'm not a big fan of titanium lights despite it being as strong as steel at half the weight because of the often gritty feel to the threads.
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