BentHeadTX
Flashlight Enthusiast
LiMn is SAFER than regular lithium-ion but LiFePO4 it ain't!
Only lithium-iron-phosphate cells can be crushed, have a nail driven through them or shot with bullets and just vent. However! The LiFePO4 batteries I use (DeWalt 123 Systems cells) have a battery management system (BMS) board and a fuse built in to protect them and you from 10 cells in series throwing over 100 amps of pure hell output.
If you need 28.8V from LiMn, just use a Milwaukee 28V drill battery. It has the 8 cells but a BMS to prevent cells going nuts from being reverse charged by loading in dead cells with live cells. The BMS will signal the charger (when charging)that there is a problem and shut down. The BMS will also shut down the pack when discharging if any cell drops below a specific low voltage cutoff level.
I tested two drills, a DeWalt "36V" (actually 32V) A123 Systems LiFePO4 pack VS the Milwaukee 28V drill and we all preferred the DeWalt/A123 System packs. We noted that the LiMn cells would self-discharge very quickly (a week or two) VS the LiFePO4 holding their charge. Ironically, one of the 28V Milwaukee batteries popped, vented a little and the charger shut down fast!
If you want to play with powerful lights, get powerful battery SYSTEMS to power them. ANY lithium battery system will have cell voltage detection for EACH cell to shut down the pack if any cells drops below a specific voltage (around 2 to 2.5V depending) The BMS takes care of that issue.
It sounds like the LiMn cells self-discharged in shipping and were damaged from being dropped that low in voltage. (wonder how cold it gets in aircraft mail bays) When you "recharged" them, they were statically charged quickly since their mAH level approached zero. Amazing how fast dead batteries will charge when they have 1 mAH of capacity.
When 4sevens announced the S1200, I posted it better run a LiFePO4 battery pack to handle the current pulled by the SST-90 (it does) Although you can beat the crap out of a LiFePO4, put a nail through one etc...it will still vent some gas. If you decide to get the A123 Systems 18650 cells, run a BMS board and put some sort of vent in the tube. Venting through a rubber boot cover on a tail switch works well. I've had NiMH vent because I shorted a wire to an LED group and my switch did the balloon move (thankfully)
I am very edgy around batteries myself, it has to do with 25 years experience with medical equipment and the huge NiCad portable X-Ray packs from the 80s, gel-cell pack problems in the 90's and exploding primary lithium packs used in Automatic External Defibrillators (AED) from the last decade. When looking at a Cardiac Science AED, I asked what was inside the battery pack. The guy pulled out a clear plastic covered version of the lithium primary pack and I saw several large lithium cells inside, complete with a BMS with signal wires going to EACH CELL of the battery. The AED monitored the battery from the BMS and if it ever went weird on any cell, overheated or was getting low in voltage...it would shut down the AED and give a bad battery flash warning you there was a problem.
So I read about Surefires that use 6 CR123A cells in series/parallel under a heavy load with a runtime of 20 minutes. The S1800 SST-90 light uses 6 CR123A batteries...sorry folks, I'm not going to die for a flashlight! Give me LiFePO4 or NiMH so I'll have a gas vent and ballooned switch to live another day.
As far as the exploding Li-ion cells, I would use them if, and only if they have a battery management system board (protected) One cell, only one cell though and make sure the tail switch will vent pressure through it. Shorts happen so the BMS will shut the pack down if there is a problem with the light. The down side of BMS is it does not take into account of declining capacity of the cell so your "C" rate you pull off the cell goes up with age.
You can play nice with lithium and it will play nice back as long as the rules are followed. Battery management boards for protection, fuses backing up the BMS (usually they are on the BMS) Some way to vent the battery vapor just in case and thermal protection so the charger will shut down and warn you if the battery starts to heat up when charging. Exotic BMS systems for electric bikes/motorcycles/cars monitor the temperature of each cell when charging or discharging, I guess if I had (no way in hell!) a Tesla electric car, it would be a bummer if those 6,900+ 3.6V 18650 lithium-ion cells started going off like firecrackers.
Don't worry, the rest of the electric car world is going to LiFePO4 so no need to call Homeland Security to notify them your car's battery pack is starting to vent. (I want to see a Tesla battery pack in salt water from at least a mile upwind.)
So the next time you take your uber-cool and ultra-bright twisty li-ion powered flashlight out of your pocket...think what that sealed tube with Lithium-Cobalt-Oxide battery is snuggled up to. I prefer to remain a bull...not a steer.
Now back to my 2AA NiMH Eneloop powered XP-G R5 goodness....
Only lithium-iron-phosphate cells can be crushed, have a nail driven through them or shot with bullets and just vent. However! The LiFePO4 batteries I use (DeWalt 123 Systems cells) have a battery management system (BMS) board and a fuse built in to protect them and you from 10 cells in series throwing over 100 amps of pure hell output.
If you need 28.8V from LiMn, just use a Milwaukee 28V drill battery. It has the 8 cells but a BMS to prevent cells going nuts from being reverse charged by loading in dead cells with live cells. The BMS will signal the charger (when charging)that there is a problem and shut down. The BMS will also shut down the pack when discharging if any cell drops below a specific low voltage cutoff level.
I tested two drills, a DeWalt "36V" (actually 32V) A123 Systems LiFePO4 pack VS the Milwaukee 28V drill and we all preferred the DeWalt/A123 System packs. We noted that the LiMn cells would self-discharge very quickly (a week or two) VS the LiFePO4 holding their charge. Ironically, one of the 28V Milwaukee batteries popped, vented a little and the charger shut down fast!
If you want to play with powerful lights, get powerful battery SYSTEMS to power them. ANY lithium battery system will have cell voltage detection for EACH cell to shut down the pack if any cells drops below a specific voltage (around 2 to 2.5V depending) The BMS takes care of that issue.
It sounds like the LiMn cells self-discharged in shipping and were damaged from being dropped that low in voltage. (wonder how cold it gets in aircraft mail bays) When you "recharged" them, they were statically charged quickly since their mAH level approached zero. Amazing how fast dead batteries will charge when they have 1 mAH of capacity.
When 4sevens announced the S1200, I posted it better run a LiFePO4 battery pack to handle the current pulled by the SST-90 (it does) Although you can beat the crap out of a LiFePO4, put a nail through one etc...it will still vent some gas. If you decide to get the A123 Systems 18650 cells, run a BMS board and put some sort of vent in the tube. Venting through a rubber boot cover on a tail switch works well. I've had NiMH vent because I shorted a wire to an LED group and my switch did the balloon move (thankfully)
I am very edgy around batteries myself, it has to do with 25 years experience with medical equipment and the huge NiCad portable X-Ray packs from the 80s, gel-cell pack problems in the 90's and exploding primary lithium packs used in Automatic External Defibrillators (AED) from the last decade. When looking at a Cardiac Science AED, I asked what was inside the battery pack. The guy pulled out a clear plastic covered version of the lithium primary pack and I saw several large lithium cells inside, complete with a BMS with signal wires going to EACH CELL of the battery. The AED monitored the battery from the BMS and if it ever went weird on any cell, overheated or was getting low in voltage...it would shut down the AED and give a bad battery flash warning you there was a problem.
So I read about Surefires that use 6 CR123A cells in series/parallel under a heavy load with a runtime of 20 minutes. The S1800 SST-90 light uses 6 CR123A batteries...sorry folks, I'm not going to die for a flashlight! Give me LiFePO4 or NiMH so I'll have a gas vent and ballooned switch to live another day.
As far as the exploding Li-ion cells, I would use them if, and only if they have a battery management system board (protected) One cell, only one cell though and make sure the tail switch will vent pressure through it. Shorts happen so the BMS will shut the pack down if there is a problem with the light. The down side of BMS is it does not take into account of declining capacity of the cell so your "C" rate you pull off the cell goes up with age.
You can play nice with lithium and it will play nice back as long as the rules are followed. Battery management boards for protection, fuses backing up the BMS (usually they are on the BMS) Some way to vent the battery vapor just in case and thermal protection so the charger will shut down and warn you if the battery starts to heat up when charging. Exotic BMS systems for electric bikes/motorcycles/cars monitor the temperature of each cell when charging or discharging, I guess if I had (no way in hell!) a Tesla electric car, it would be a bummer if those 6,900+ 3.6V 18650 lithium-ion cells started going off like firecrackers.
Don't worry, the rest of the electric car world is going to LiFePO4 so no need to call Homeland Security to notify them your car's battery pack is starting to vent. (I want to see a Tesla battery pack in salt water from at least a mile upwind.)
So the next time you take your uber-cool and ultra-bright twisty li-ion powered flashlight out of your pocket...think what that sealed tube with Lithium-Cobalt-Oxide battery is snuggled up to. I prefer to remain a bull...not a steer.
Now back to my 2AA NiMH Eneloop powered XP-G R5 goodness....