StevelKnievel
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2007
- Messages
- 114
Hi everyone,
Here are some pictures and beamshots of my Triple Cree Turbocat. The light is driven by a Fatman and uses the stock 6v 4Ah NiMH battery. There is a conical aluminum heatsink inside the assembly for maximum heat transfer from PCB to housing and I replaced the stock bezel with a finned one for more surface area. This solution has proven effective for drive currents up to around 800mA. Above 800mA the light will begin to get a little hot without airflow. I've run it as high as 1.2A, at which point it was overheating and shutting off if it did not have adequate airflow (keep in mind this is in 80-85degF ambient Florida weather). I've been testing this light pretty much nonstop since I finished the machining and as long as it is run at a reasonable drive current it is drop dead reliable. The entire assembly is just slightly heavier than the MR11 halogen it replaces, not enough to be noticable.
Here are some beamshots comparing the "LEDcat" running at 650mA with my NiteRider HID. Exposure for all shots is 0.4sec at f2.8 with Canon Powershot A620.
1st: Just the LEDcat
2nd: Just the NR HID
3rd: Both LEDcat and NR HID
I really like the color of the Crees, and the 10deg optic is good for a handlebar light. The throw gets better as I turn up the power, but at 650mA it is a little lacking. Most of our rides are 2-3 hours long, so I set it up to run for that long. I am thinking about making a small run of the machined parts that will allow someone to convert their Turbocat with the MR11 Cree kit from Cutter. There is room in the Turbocat housing for bFlex, maxFlex or fatman, so if you wanted to run a nice big 14.8v Li-ion for tons of runtime with bFlex you could. Hope you all like it!
Here are some pictures and beamshots of my Triple Cree Turbocat. The light is driven by a Fatman and uses the stock 6v 4Ah NiMH battery. There is a conical aluminum heatsink inside the assembly for maximum heat transfer from PCB to housing and I replaced the stock bezel with a finned one for more surface area. This solution has proven effective for drive currents up to around 800mA. Above 800mA the light will begin to get a little hot without airflow. I've run it as high as 1.2A, at which point it was overheating and shutting off if it did not have adequate airflow (keep in mind this is in 80-85degF ambient Florida weather). I've been testing this light pretty much nonstop since I finished the machining and as long as it is run at a reasonable drive current it is drop dead reliable. The entire assembly is just slightly heavier than the MR11 halogen it replaces, not enough to be noticable.
Here are some beamshots comparing the "LEDcat" running at 650mA with my NiteRider HID. Exposure for all shots is 0.4sec at f2.8 with Canon Powershot A620.
1st: Just the LEDcat
2nd: Just the NR HID
3rd: Both LEDcat and NR HID
I really like the color of the Crees, and the 10deg optic is good for a handlebar light. The throw gets better as I turn up the power, but at 650mA it is a little lacking. Most of our rides are 2-3 hours long, so I set it up to run for that long. I am thinking about making a small run of the machined parts that will allow someone to convert their Turbocat with the MR11 Cree kit from Cutter. There is room in the Turbocat housing for bFlex, maxFlex or fatman, so if you wanted to run a nice big 14.8v Li-ion for tons of runtime with bFlex you could. Hope you all like it!
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