You can become a Supporting Member.
Will a standard solarforce switch withstand 4.5A? Do I need any upgrades to see the full average besides good batts?
I had great luck with Solarforce tail cap running high current. The reverse clicky are especially good at high current applications due to the lack of a thin forward press spring.
Thanks Vinh but I have the new fwd clicky cap for the L2N. That ok as well?
If I recall correctly, a cool white's output is ~7% more than of a 5000k. 5000k's color tint is better (warmer), as cool white deadens renditions of skin and leaves.Q: would the XM-L2 at 5000k be better? how is that ?.
XM-L is version 1.
Q: i thought also there was U2 and U3 LEDS?. better the XM-L2's
whats all the differences here?
I don't know if I'm reading this correctly.Q: also if i did get it, who can fit it in the UK?
If I recall correctly, a cool white's output is ~7% more than of a 5000k. 5000k's color tint is better (warmer), as cool white deadens renditions of skin and leaves.
XM-L is version 1.
XM-L2 is version 2 (announced by Cree like this month).
XM-L2 is ~20% brighter compared to the same bin from the old XM-L.
I don't know if I'm reading this correctly.
If you mean "who can fix it (if the light breaks)?", it's Vinhnguyen! Though he's not in the UK (currently at Seattle), he does mod jobs and is knowledgeable with electronics in drop-in flashlights.
If you mean how to install the P60-sized drop-in, then you need a 6P-type host that a P60 LED bulb can slot in. Install the P60 by just putting it in, that's all. No screws, glue, wrench, etc needed. Unlike the PD32 which has a second button to conveniently switch mods, a 6P-type host only has one tailcap button. You switch mods with it by turning the light on/off within 1 second.
There are 3 main commercial brands that make flashlight bodies that accept interchangeable P60 LED modules: Surefire (brand-name), Solarforce (1/4 cost of a Surefire), and Ultrafire (poorest build quality).
There are also custom-designed hosts on CPF's Buy/sell/trade thread. FiveMega's Cooly host for example is a beastly looking body.
You'll also want a McClicky on/off since Vinhnguyen's XML's pushes the limits. The stock tailcap switch is good at 3A current draw. A McClicky is good at 5A.
You'll need to use aluminum foils to wrap the drop-in as you pop it in the torch host, because there may be a gap that subtracts from thermal release. Copper foil is better, and you can buy some in CPF's MarketPlace forum.
Both XM-L U2 and XM-L U3 are of the previous LED generation.thanks so much.
where do U2 and U3's fit in?.
are they better even than XM L2's ?.
thanks.
Both XM-L U2 and XM-L U3 are of the previous LED generation.
U3 is ~7% brighter than a U2.
I think the current XM-L2 cool white is a U2 (~12% brighter than a first-gen XM-L U3). I don't recall reading about a XM-L2 U3.
Correct me if I'm wrong, anyone.
22% output increase?BIG thanks. got it. appreciated.
would there be a difference say then with an XM-L2/3 neutral than the now T6 neutral in my PD32UE?.....
& can any mod be done to a PD32UE such as this then ?? .........cheers...cool!.
22% output increase?
You can view a Cree LED datesheet at 3A here: http://flashlightwiki.com/Cree
For modding the XM-L in the PD32UE, you'll have to visit Vinhnguyen's mod thread. He has done quite a few LED swaps.
Forgot to mention, Vinh has previously stated (couple of days ago) that the 5000K tint in the new XM-L2 is the best he's seen in any Neutral White.
Dale