Zebralight SC600w IV Plus

Hondo

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Oct 26, 2005
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I tried to resize the images on the editor here but had no luck...


Not sure, but sounds like you might have tried to size the photos on the forum editor. If so, I wanted to point out that you need to do it on the host (IMGUR or whatever you use). Edit size, save, and I usually delete the original larger copy. Then grab the link and post here.

Regardless, that is an awesome light and I'm glad you like it. I have never replaced my original SC600w, but actually find myself using the SC60w most. I got an SC62w, but besides going a tad lower and having a tad higher high, it does not do anything the SC60w can't.
 
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WalkIntoTheLight

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Question for Zebralight owners: Can you reach the highest level with one click... or is the brightest level considered turbo, requiring a double click?

Yes, all Zebralights have single-click to max. (Or a different high mode, if you set it up that way.)

The newer Zebralights (anything in the past year or so) have fully programmable levels. So, you can set up any mode you want to be single-click. For example, you might want a moonlight mode to be your single-click function, which some people prefer. In that case, they may choose a long-click to be max, or a double-click.

I have made different programming groups for indoor use and outdoor use. Indoors, I prefer lower output levels. Outdoors, I prefer a wider range of levels, and from each of those levels I have set to be double-click to max so I have that ready fast if I want it.
 

wimmer21

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Yes, all Zebralights have single-click to max. (Or a different high mode, if you set it up that way.)

The newer Zebralights (anything in the past year or so) have fully programmable levels. So, you can set up any mode you want to be single-click. For example, you might want a moonlight mode to be your single-click function, which some people prefer. In that case, they may choose a long-click to be max, or a double-click.

I have made different programming groups for indoor use and outdoor use. Indoors, I prefer lower output levels. Outdoors, I prefer a wider range of levels, and from each of those levels I have set to be double-click to max so I have that ready fast if I want it.

Great info... exactly what I needed to know. Thank you, sir!
 

Rockjunkie15

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Jan 16, 2017
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I picked up one of these Zebralight SC600w IV + to replace my beat to death E14 EDC and now that I've drank the koolaid I can see what all the fuss is about. I have previously owned the battery denting xhp35 HI version but it was just blah, but this xhp50.2 version has a fantastic beam pattern and wonderful tint for my edc needs.

Here's a beam shot from last nights walk, nice smooth beam.

https://i.postimg.cc/prnVmfZg/29-C66-D36-D653-46-FA-9484-674066-E4191-C.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/RFYVCsc7/40282-BEF-EA95-4276-AEEB-76-E69-AD037-A5.jpg
 

likethevegetable

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Aug 25, 2017
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Nice pics! I really enjoy the wide and powerful spill. I'm definitely a floody -biased guy.

Just curious, what about the HI was blah to you (besides battery denting)? Seems like if you're after some throw it is an excellent choice.
 

NPL

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Nov 26, 2015
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Just got one of these and overall very impressed. Much better and more useful beam pattern for close to mid range compared to my sc600w HI.
The two will complement each other very well.
 

likethevegetable

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How's the tint on your sample, NPL?

I'm aware that the HI is generally nicer, but in actual use and not on a white wall, do you notice a difference between the HI and Plus?

P.S. I love the beam shape of the Plus, combined with 2,300 lumens it produces an impressive wall of light.
 

NPL

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Tint on mine sounds consistent with other reports. A touch yellow, with tint shift around the Corona. Indoors on a white wall its noticeable, but it's functionality and usefulness supercedes that in actual use. Outdoors or on objects not noticeable. Might slap a minus green filter and see if it makes it a little rosier. Hi is clinically clean in comparison.
 

holygeez03

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Sep 30, 2010
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When used outdoors the tint of this light is completely acceptable considering the size/output ratio... EXCEPT for the very, very outer ring that is completely purple.... we're about to get snow here and it's going to be even more noticeable to me on the white ground.

I'm pretty sure the purple ring is from light reflecting off the super shiny stainless bezel and then getting tinted from the AR coating... I'm going to try to paint the bezel matte black or cover it with black tape to see if it goes away.
 

Alex64

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Dec 24, 2016
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I received mine a few days ago and for the moment I'm enjoying it a lot. The only thing is the button has a bit dead travel compared to the H600. It's normal in this model?
 

likethevegetable

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I received mine a few days ago and for the moment I'm enjoying it a lot. The only thing is the button has a bit dead travel compared to the H600. It's normal in this model?

All 4 of ZLs switches have a very similar feel, they immediately click on or off with no discernible travel time. A very "digital" feeling.

Some of mine are more clicky than the others, for ex. my H53Fc feels the most clicky and loudest, with my SC600w IV Plus being the softest and quietest.

By travel do you mean a bit of squishiness before the click is engaged?

I must admit, the thing I'm most insecure about with my ZLs are the switches. I don't like the idea of constant friction (especially from winter gloves) or a fingernail digging on the rubber. I obviously don't drive my nail in the switch and tell my GF not to when she uses it. Two of mine also leak light, but that allegedly is not an issue for durability, but lack of dye in the boot. I've only seen one failure on the internet though. I wonder what the challenges are in using a metal switch? Perhaps waterproofing?
 
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Alex64

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Dec 24, 2016
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By travel do you mean a bit of squishiness before the click is engaged?

I must admit, the thing I'm most insecure about with my ZLs are the switches. I don't like the idea of constant friction (especially from winter gloves) or a fingernail digging on the rubber. I obviously don't drive my nail in the switch and tell my GF not to when she uses it. Two of mine also leak light, but that allegedly is not an issue for durability, but lack of dye in the boot. I've only seen one failure on the internet though. I wonder what the challenges are in using a metal switch? Perhaps waterproofing?
Hi, with my H600 MK II when press the rubber immediately touches pushes the switch. With the SC600 Plus you have to push the rubber 1 mm until it starts to touch the switch, which makes the touch a bit worse.
 

Fireclaw18

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Mar 16, 2011
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Hi, with my H600 MK II when press the rubber immediately touches pushes the switch. With the SC600 Plus you have to push the rubber 1 mm until it starts to touch the switch, which makes the touch a bit worse.

When Zebralight switched from the big switches (SC51) to the small recessed switch (starting the original SC600), they used a switch that required a firm press and didn't feel squishy at all.

Unfortunately, those nice firm switches stopped being available. Zebralight had to switch suppliers. The newer switches (found in all models from the last few years) are slightly squishier.
 

JoeRodge

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Oct 8, 2017
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Half of my emitter just went dark and is slightly lit with a fuzzy light. It's a month and 3 days outside of its 1 year warranty. It's eaten batteries on getting slightest of drops. I have made so many excuses for this light. I love everything about it except a few flaws. This kills me....
 

Cpl S

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It's unfortunate that you received one of very few duds from Zebralight. Dont lose faith in the brand.

Have you emailed them to see what they can do?
 

JoeRodge

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Oct 8, 2017
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They are having me send it in. 6-8 week turn around but it's worth it. I'm pretty excited.
 

ven

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Either is fine, also vtc5 and vtc5a are other options. I tend to use both, 30Q and vtc6 in my plus and HI. As long as flat top, your good to go.
 

WalkIntoTheLight

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Jun 18, 2014
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I use both the 30Q and VTC6 in the 600w IV+, both work great. I also use the Sanyo GA, which gives a bit more run time on most levels. If you run on full output a lot (which you probably won't due to heat), then the GA likely doesn't give any benefit.

Basically, use any cell with a 10A or better discharge rating, and you're good to go.
 
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