R.O.P. Roar of the Pelican mini-FAQ/master thread

Pretty much what Pokerstud said. You can run with minus one cell if you wish to, at the cost of lumens but with the benefit of increased bulb longevity.

Is there any mod that will prevent the ROP high from draining NiMH completely? I turn the light off when it dims but the batteries still seem to be drained completely. I have blown through two sets of cells and its starting to get expensive.

You could use a hotdriver, which will shut off without warning when the battery pack voltage dips to 10% (IIRC) below set voltage.

Where would I find a hot driver, and would it be a difficult install?

Also any suggestions for spacers for my charger and where to find them?

A hotdriver isn't too difficult too install, but it's a good idea to look over the instructions first. And it's easier to install than to build, but they cost more pre-built of course. It's basically a replacement switch assembly with a KIU bi-pin socket with the hotdriver circuit installed to limit the lamp voltage to a desired level - as long as it's not too far from the battery pack voltage. If there is a large difference in Vbat and Vlamp, then you could use a PWM circuit made by Winny, but there were not many made with no plans to make more.

Charger spacers could be wadded balls of aluminum foil, or brass cylinders can purchased from AW to make a 50 mm long cell fit in a bay sized for a 65 mm long cell.

OK, I built both an ROP and a Mag85, but without hot drivers.

QUESTIONS:
1. What are sources for pre-built hot drivers?
2. Where do I get detailed instructions on how to install them?
3. Do the ROP and Mag85 require different hot drivers?

Thanks,
DogLeg

They are sold through AWR at this thread. It contains links to instructions for the DIYer to build one, but installation of a pre-built one is as easy as replacing the stock switch. A hotdriver can be reset to a different Vbulb, so you can use it for a different application later.

Going from ROP to 1185 requires the adjustment of a potentiometer with a screw driver (instructions for this are also found in the first link. The exceptions are if you ever intend to use it for really high power (100W+) then it has to be built to handle that, and if you want to use the IRC bulbs then the pedestal has to be adjusted when built to position those bulbs properly.

I have noticed that the beam on my ROP is significantly more yellow then my surefire e2d. Is there anything I can do to whiten it up? I am running 6 4/5 sub c's.

I don't want to repeat all of the instructions here, but you can search for these "resistance fixes" for both the switch and tailspring to increase the voltage at the bulb. They basically involve reducing resistance by adding better conduction paths. This will result in the brighter and whiter beam you seek. If the switch is corroded you may also need a treatment of DeOxit cleaner. A temporary solution is to take it apart and at least clean the contacts like the long slide that maintains contact to the bulb holder as it is raised and lowered in focusing.

I had a few questions on the ROP. I currently have several vintage lights that I run with AA NIMHs. I have read here that you use 6 cells, 7 rested cells. Does this apply to both bulbs. If I run lo or hi bulb (6 cells) hot off of charger will I blow either bulb? If I run 7 well rested cells lo or hi will I blow the bulbs? What defines well rested a day, a week? The reason that I ask is that the low bulb seems very bright, but the hi bulb dosen't seem to be much brighter certainly not double.
I purchased a 6d vintage light that I want to make a ROP. I have to use the plastic bulb holder in this light to bring the tip of the bulb below the reflector. Will I melt the bulb holder with the hi bulb. If so how long would it take? I mean could I run the light for 15 minutes? This flashlight came with an extender for 7 batteries. Should I run it at 6 or 7 and with the hi or low bulb.

6 AA sized hot off the charger cells will not instaflash the HI or LOW bulb.

7 comercial variety AA sized rested cells will not instaflash the HI or LOW bulb.

If you can, use 7 AA sized rested cells. You'll get more lumens out the front and the beam will be closer to white. The Pelican bulbs are surprisingly robust.

You shouldn't have any problems with AA sized cells rested for 8 hours or more.

Is it safe to run the Low output ROP bulb on 2 X 17500's (1100mh)? Thanks

Nighstalker101

mudman cj said:

I don't want to repeat all of the instructions here, but you can search for these "resistance fixes" for both the switch and tailspring to increase the voltage at the bulb. They basically involve reducing resistance by adding better conduction paths. This will result in the brighter and whiter beam you seek. If the switch is corroded you may also need a treatment of DeOxit cleaner. A temporary solution is to take it apart and at least clean the contacts like the long slide that maintains contact to the bulb holder as it is raised and lowered in focusing.

Click to expand...

I also have a ROP, how do I reduce resistance on the tailspring? Thanks.

Solder a length of braided solder wick from the bottom loop of the spring to the top loop of the spring. The current path will become the much lower resistance copper instead of the steel spring.

LumenHound said:

Solder a length of braided solder wick from the bottom loop of the spring to the top loop of the spring. The current path will become the much lower resistance copper instead of the steel spring.

Click to expand...

Thanks. Will try.

I found an easy fix for the spring tension issue! I picked up a metal spring at the local hardware store that fits the tail cap of a 2C perfect. It's about 3 inches long and has much smaller diameter wire. I was gonna shorten it but there is no need to. I just had to bend the top coil a little so it would make contact. I'm sure one could be found for D sized bodies also.

FishX

thanks fishx65 for your suggestion.

Hi all!

I just recieved the parts for my ROP 2D..

Im going to use 6AA adapter.. I just purchased a 8pack of Eneloops and I have a new 8pack of La Crosse 2300 cells that came with the new charger.. (a lot of purchases lately)

What bulb H/L do you recomend with these cells and what runtime can I expect (without destroting the cells)..

I have read a whole lot of post regarding this, but Im still to new to know what C-rating etc the cells have..

So to sum it up:
Can i use both HOLA/LOLA with LaCrosse 2300?
Can i use both HOLA/LOLA with Eneloops?
Runtime on the above without destroying something?
What do I need to consider with this setup?

Sorry for all questions, I hope you remember when you yourself was a newbee

Eagerly awaiting your answers while Im refreasing the cells (this is also something new to me.. A lot of learning to do)

And one more question:

I just had to try it, so I used primaries just for a few seconds.. How long can I try with these without them overheating or blowing up? Or is that a big NO NO even in short bursts?

how well would this work with a 5 cell mag? I have 2 5 cell mag's that are begging to be modded but dont know the best way to do it.