Foursevens Preon P0

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I don't know why I did not measure this earlier in my videos.
Probably because the eneloops started working:ironic: with a larger hole in the foam.
Duracell base of the buttontop ~3.3mm.
Eneloop base of the buttontop ~3.8mm.
Minimum clearance on one of my samples between the driver board components ~3.81mm, maybe 0.0005" clearance, thats 1/2 of one thousandth of one inch.

So until we see a V.2, IMO, I would not reccomend using Eneloops, they may damage/chip the driver components on the PCB. The foam alone will not prevent damage caused by over tightening the head trying to get Eneloops to work, and may or may not damage the lights driver and or the battery.

Since the Positive post of the battery and center contact on the driver are the switch, keep it well cleaned/protected for optimum results and consistent mode selection.

Even with this finding, I still like the light:thumbsup:
GL
 
Quote from Johnnyfgroove:
"If the positive contact gets the solder blob treatment, can the foam pad then be removed permanently? "




No. You need the pressure of the pad to keep everything snugged up to ensure positive contact and release. Think of it as a smooth yet firm hydraulic motion. Without the pad you will experience flickering and misfires.

So instead of enlarging the hole on my original foam pad to accomodate the Eneloop, I tried substituting properly sized orings and it worked fine. Also tried some soft rubber tubing I had with @ 1/4" ID and 3/8" OD. A piece @3/32" in length works perfectly in my case. YMMV
 
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I don't know why I did not measure this earlier in my videos.
Probably because the eneloops started working:ironic: with a larger hole in the foam.
Duracell base of the buttontop ~3.3mm.
Eneloop base of the buttontop ~3.8mm.
Minimum clearance on one of my samples between the driver board components ~3.81mm, maybe 0.0005" clearance, thats 1/2 of one thousandth of one inch.

So until we see a V.2, IMO, I would not reccomend using Eneloops, they may damage/chip the driver components on the PCB. The foam alone will not prevent damage caused by over tightening the head trying to get Eneloops to work, and may or may not damage the lights driver and or the battery.

Since the Positive post of the battery and center contact on the driver are the switch, keep it well cleaned/protected for optimum results and consistent mode selection.

Even with this finding, I still like the light:thumbsup:
GL

Interesting. In my case, the Eneloop could not make contact with the positive contact of the board, even with the foam removed.

I have no way of measuring the clearances between IC's and positive contact. But I did see that one of the IC's was so close to the positive contact and slightly elevated, that there was no way the Eneloop could work. So in my case, I had to solder or send it back. I don't recommend this to anyone, but I am pleased with the results.
 
So I pulled out the foam pad, and then wrapped the battery with paper to keep it centered and stable. Seems to be functioning much better so far.

P1000794-1.jpg
 
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Quote from Johnnyfgroove:
"If the positive contact gets the solder blob treatment, can the foam pad then be removed permanently? "
No. You need the pressure of the pad to keep everything snugged up to ensure positive contact and release. Think of it as a smooth yet firm hydraulic motion. Without the pad you will experience flickering and misfires.
Agreed. Think of it as a spring used in a relay or contactor, where the driver center connector and Battery buttontop are the contactors.

Interesting. In my case, the Eneloop could not make contact with the positive contact of the board, even with the foam removed.

I have no way of measuring the clearances between IC's and positive contact. But I did see that one of the IC's was so close to the positive contact and slightly elevated, that there was no way the Eneloop could work. So in my case, I had to solder or send it back. I don't recommend this to anyone, but I am pleased with the results.
Testing is not complete and documented, but in my samples, I think the Eneloop may actually be getting pushed off center slightly to make contact. The Eneloop has a very slight cone shape and the priliminary distances between those two ICs is only 3.62mm in width and the highest component is 0.050mm in height, and the base of the Eneloops I have measure 3.8mm:thinking: Yet they are making consistant contact and mode changes. I do not reccomend it either, but the modding of the driver contact using a blob of soldier appears to be the only viable solution, assuming you wish to void the warranty.

I still like them :thumbsup:
GL
 
thank you for posting your dealings with this light.

What method did you use whn you were solering. Any prep or did you use lead solder.

Also somebody metioned when you add solder to the node, can you remove the foam insert. The answer is definately yes. Then again when you drop the light, there is going to be no cushion when the battery hits the pcb from a drop on the head. Its definately not getting in the way and helps keep my threads from getting sloppy.

After the fix it will work great, I PROMISE! It makes sense when alkaline companies are getting manufactures to push their products. Sanyo doesn't have to push their product as it sells itself just like honda and toyota.

Also, when you add some solder, you are going to lose a thread or two when twisting so dont add too much as a second attempt is going to be interesting!

Thanks for the early posters on this light as it helped me try a new style of all flood light and its definitely a winner in my book.

Othere, please post you occurrences as 4Sevens needs to see what is wrong. As a few phone calls from random people are only getting them to replace the lights and not second look it. We are here to help them make changes as the elders on here are experts and have seen small problems like this before and I have leaned much I have.

Thanks,
Eric
 
Quote: Got Lumens?

"I do not reccomend it either, but the modding of the driver contact using a blob of soldier appears to be the only viable solution, assuming you wish to void the warranty."

LOL..Warranty Schwarranty..I've got it fixed to my likings now. :devil: KEEP KEEP KEEP..! ! !

Below is solder mod and with new bushing added.



SolderModwBushing.jpg
 
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Sorry if it has been asked (just could not read through 400 plus posts)
Why is this only 25 lumens?

I can't speak for the manufacturer but I think you would have to add one mode to the light so it would have Very Low, Medium and High, with a maximum output of about 70 lumens. This is certainly possible if you look at the other AAA lights on the market, e.g., ITP A3, etc. As it is, quality control issues notwithstanding, the limited maximum output is what prevents this light from being the perfect keychain companion.
 
btw, there is also a big potential difference in the perception between people, i.e. the threshold that determines whether you see a weak light or not is individually different. Maybe this can explain a part of the observed differences.


Yea, I have a friend that would need a 50 lm GITD to see it at all.


Keith
 
I have had my Foursevens Preon P0 for a bit more than a week. I have had no issues with it whatsoever. I'm still running the battery that came in it, a Duracell Alkaline. I'm interested in how long it lasts with a lithium AAA battery. Given the run time, and that I don't like to waste batteries, it will be a while before I get to try out a lithium battery in it.

I was very impressed with the floodlight consistency in both the low and high modes. The lack of ANY hotspot whatsoever just flat-out impressed me. I've not the considerable experience of many CPF members with various lights, but I've not seen anything like it.

At first, I thought the low mode was a bit too low, especially since it is a floodlight only, no narrow beam. The more I've used it though, the more I've realized it is quite useful. It doesn't dazzle your eyes, causing you to have to have a bright light to see your way around. If I need to see something in more light than the low mode, I just move the light closer to the item I want to see. Of course, if I need the high mode, it's just a twist away.

I like the magnet in the end for hands free working, but I've had to get used to it. I'm accustomed to holding the light in my mouth and pointing it that way. The magnet has a bit of a tangy taste and reminds me to look for somewhere to stick the light.

The glowing ring around the LED helps in finding it if you drop it after turning it off and somehow missing your pocket. Although not vividly bright for very long, it glows enough to be useful. It was still glowing enough for me to see it on my bedroom dresser seven hours after going to bed. The room was dark, the curtains were closed, and it was still dark outside.

Because of the floodlight beam, it makes a useful "candle" or gentle room illuminator on low. It does a pretty fair job of illuminating a room on high as well. If it lasts even just most of the 120 hours on low it's supposed to, and I've no reason to believe it won't, it will make a good night light while traveling and a good tent light and tent marking light while camping as well.

Overall, I think it's a good EDC light, and that's why I have it. It provides plenty of light to find your keys (low or high), for my wife to read a book while I drive at night without distracting me (low), and to change a tire if need be (high), though I have more and brighter lights for that that I keep in the truck.
 
Got my 2nd P0 yesterday (first was stolen :( ) and really love it. 0 issues, dropped an eneloop in and played around with it. Left it on low all night long on my nightstand as a candle, if you will. GITD works awesome.

Found a great use for the magnet - its strong enough to stick itself horizontal to any electrical outlet or switch wallplate screw - instant room light at night!
 
Quote: Got Lumens?

"I do not reccomend it either, but the modding of the driver contact using a blob of soldier appears to be the only viable solution, assuming you wish to void the warranty."

LOL..Warranty Schwarranty..I've got it fixed to my likings now. :devil:
KEEP KEEP KEEP..! ! !

Below is solder mod and with new bushing added.



th_SolderModwBushing.jpg
Looks good Streamer :thumbsup:
I bet that bushing of yours won't desintergrate like foam. Awsome job. Just so everyone that tries this knows, your soldier only needs to be ~0.75mm high to clear the components and give a little flat spot like pictured by Streamer.
GL
 
I just got mine in the mail. It is really cool. I love how small it is and it is kinda classy too. Too bad it doesn't work. :confused: I'm not sure why. I put an eneloop in it and it flickered once and that was it. I tried 4 other alkalines they didn't work either. I knew a lot of people were having trouble using eneloops in their lights but I didn't think it would hurt to try. I usually only use eneloops in my aa and aaa lights. Did I mess up my light by using an eneloop? The light seems really cool. I kinda like the magnet. I also can't get over how small the light is. The GITD is also pretty cool. I don't think I have ever received a product that was DOA from anyone before. This really sucks. I'm sure 4sevens will make it right but for the meantime I'm pretty bummed. Any suggestions on what I can do to make my light work? :anyone:

So until we see a V.2, IMO, I would not reccomend using Eneloops, they may damage/chip the driver components on the PCB. The foam alone will not prevent damage caused by over tightening the head trying to get Eneloops to work, and may or may not damage the lights driver and or the battery.

GL

I wonder if I broke mine by putting the eneloop in it. I tried an eneloop first and only saw a quick flash of light and it never worked after that. The eneloop was the first battery I tried in it so I guess it could have been the eneloop or the light may of just been DOA. I wonder how long I will have to wait for another one considering they are now out of stock? Maybe they have a few extra for special circumstances?
 
Yeh, it sucks having to wait for a replacement. I know how that feels.
I'm sure you tried alkalines?

And yes, it's possible the eneloop caused the failure if the alkalines don't work either.
That flash of light could have been the Eneloop causing a short and poof..hope not

I know 4 Sevens will make it right. And like you, I hate the w a i t i n....ggggggg..
Cheers.
 
I wonder if I broke mine by putting the eneloop in it. I tried an eneloop first and only saw a quick flash of light and it never worked after that. The eneloop was the first battery I tried in it so I guess it could have been the eneloop or the light may of just been DOA. I wonder how long I will have to wait for another one considering they are now out of stock? Maybe they have a few extra for special circumstances?
Someguy,
Sorry to hear about your light. Did you happen to try the AAA Duracell that it came with? If still no go, Give them a PM, Email, or phone call. They usually take care of these things pretty quickly. Let us know how you make out after you reach them.
GL
 
So, its my turn to post all issues i got with my "P0-SS Lemonade"

- light flickers with all batterys including the Duracell from the box
- on eneloops it wont turn on 90% of the time
- sometimes light starts at low and "ramping" to high without doing anything after a few seconds
- LED offcenter (picture 1)
- BAD rotating work on the polish of the Head (picture 2)

Contacted fourseven and waiting for a solution :(




Picture 1




Picture 2
 
So, its my turn to post all issues i got with my "P0-SS Lemonade"

- light flickers with all batterys including the Duracell from the box
- on eneloops it wont turn on 90% of the time
- sometimes light starts at low and "ramping" to high without doing anything after a few seconds
- LED offcenter (picture 1)
- BAD rotating work on the polish of the Head (picture 2)

Contacted fourseven and waiting for a solution :(
I had some of those same issues. I bought mine to use with eneloops because this light was going to see alot of use at night, but eneloops didn't work at all in it. I just gave it to a friend. I hope they come out with an improved model.
 
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