reeso
Newly Enlightened
Burntrice, How long dId yours take to get to the UK?
Burntrice, How long dId yours take to get to the UK?
I don't know why I did not measure this earlier in my videos.
Probably because the eneloops started working:ironic: with a larger hole in the foam.
Duracell base of the buttontop ~3.3mm.
Eneloop base of the buttontop ~3.8mm.
Minimum clearance on one of my samples between the driver board components ~3.81mm, maybe 0.0005" clearance, thats 1/2 of one thousandth of one inch.
So until we see a V.2, IMO, I would not reccomend using Eneloops, they may damage/chip the driver components on the PCB. The foam alone will not prevent damage caused by over tightening the head trying to get Eneloops to work, and may or may not damage the lights driver and or the battery.
Since the Positive post of the battery and center contact on the driver are the switch, keep it well cleaned/protected for optimum results and consistent mode selection.
Even with this finding, I still like the light:thumbsup:
GL
Agreed. Think of it as a spring used in a relay or contactor, where the driver center connector and Battery buttontop are the contactors.Quote from Johnnyfgroove:"If the positive contact gets the solder blob treatment, can the foam pad then be removed permanently? "No. You need the pressure of the pad to keep everything snugged up to ensure positive contact and release. Think of it as a smooth yet firm hydraulic motion. Without the pad you will experience flickering and misfires.
Testing is not complete and documented, but in my samples, I think the Eneloop may actually be getting pushed off center slightly to make contact. The Eneloop has a very slight cone shape and the priliminary distances between those two ICs is only 3.62mm in width and the highest component is 0.050mm in height, and the base of the Eneloops I have measure 3.8mm:thinking: Yet they are making consistant contact and mode changes. I do not reccomend it either, but the modding of the driver contact using a blob of soldier appears to be the only viable solution, assuming you wish to void the warranty.Interesting. In my case, the Eneloop could not make contact with the positive contact of the board, even with the foam removed.
I have no way of measuring the clearances between IC's and positive contact. But I did see that one of the IC's was so close to the positive contact and slightly elevated, that there was no way the Eneloop could work. So in my case, I had to solder or send it back. I don't recommend this to anyone, but I am pleased with the results.
Sorry if it has been asked (just could not read through 400 plus posts)
Why is this only 25 lumens?
btw, there is also a big potential difference in the perception between people, i.e. the threshold that determines whether you see a weak light or not is individually different. Maybe this can explain a part of the observed differences.
Looks good Streamer :thumbsup:Quote: Got Lumens?
"I do not reccomend it either, but the modding of the driver contact using a blob of soldier appears to be the only viable solution, assuming you wish to void the warranty."
LOL..Warranty Schwarranty..I've got it fixed to my likings now. :devil: KEEP KEEP KEEP..! ! !
Below is solder mod and with new bushing added.
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I just got mine in the mail. It is really cool. I love how small it is and it is kinda classy too. Too bad it doesn't work. :confused: I'm not sure why. I put an eneloop in it and it flickered once and that was it. I tried 4 other alkalines they didn't work either. I knew a lot of people were having trouble using eneloops in their lights but I didn't think it would hurt to try. I usually only use eneloops in my aa and aaa lights. Did I mess up my light by using an eneloop? The light seems really cool. I kinda like the magnet. I also can't get over how small the light is. The GITD is also pretty cool. I don't think I have ever received a product that was DOA from anyone before. This really sucks. I'm sure 4sevens will make it right but for the meantime I'm pretty bummed. Any suggestions on what I can do to make my light work? :anyone:
So until we see a V.2, IMO, I would not reccomend using Eneloops, they may damage/chip the driver components on the PCB. The foam alone will not prevent damage caused by over tightening the head trying to get Eneloops to work, and may or may not damage the lights driver and or the battery.
GL
Someguy,I wonder if I broke mine by putting the eneloop in it. I tried an eneloop first and only saw a quick flash of light and it never worked after that. The eneloop was the first battery I tried in it so I guess it could have been the eneloop or the light may of just been DOA. I wonder how long I will have to wait for another one considering they are now out of stock? Maybe they have a few extra for special circumstances?
I had some of those same issues. I bought mine to use with eneloops because this light was going to see alot of use at night, but eneloops didn't work at all in it. I just gave it to a friend. I hope they come out with an improved model.So, its my turn to post all issues i got with my "P0-SS Lemonade"
- light flickers with all batterys including the Duracell from the box
- on eneloops it wont turn on 90% of the time
- sometimes light starts at low and "ramping" to high without doing anything after a few seconds
- LED offcenter (picture 1)
- BAD rotating work on the polish of the Head (picture 2)
Contacted fourseven and waiting for a solution :(