Armytek Wizard Pro Prototype Long-Term Testing

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I have this same problem and I noticed this problem happening almost e very time I went to use the voltage indicator as you need to get to the strobe setting and then after it finishes reading the voltage you need to turn the light off as it stays in a constant loop of reading the voltage.

With Zebralight, it will revert back to the mode you had it in prior to the voltage indicator. Also the Liteflux L2XT will revert back to the prior mode after a voltage test. Just another gripe about the Armytek to me as others have done it correctly but Armytek failed in this regard and it's not a question of preference it is whether they succeeded or failed.

So after I turn the light off after the voltage indicator, the light fails to turn back on. I have to do what the pther poster does and remove the tailcap and then tighten it and it may or may not come back on the first try. This to me seems like a critical bug that shouldn't have been released if this happens to all lights. (It happens with both my Pro regular and wide U3)

I still have to find out if returning these will be on my dime or not and if it needs to go back to China or Canada.

All in all it was a hope this would be as evolutionary as KnightLight made it seem but to me this fell flat after being used to Zevbralights all these years. Not sure how he could look at the Armytek favorably over the H600. I don't even have a H600 (waiting for their H602-hopefully soon), but I view my H51s, H502s and H31s in favor of either Armytek I have, and they run on AAs or CR123s and not the superior capacity 18650 cells the Armytek uses.

bradthebold said:
My light just won't turn on sometimes. I'll go to use it, and nothing happens when I click or hold the button. Tightening the tailcap doesn't do anything. I have to unscrew the tailcap half way and least and screw it back on to get the light to work.

Also, when I put it in turbo mode now, it will blink 3 times and flash the warning signal that the voltage is too low. I thought this only came on at 3.1V? The voltage indicator in the light says 3.5V. It doesn't do it in any other mode.
Click to expand...
 
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tony613 said:
+1. In my case, I took the tail cap off when I was putting the light in the holder. Because of that I had a little Nyogel on my fingers (from the threads of the light) so I put it in the grooves of the light where the holder sits. The gel made turning the light easier in the holder. That said, while my light sits in the holder firmly, it is not impossible to turn - but it is much more stationary than the Zebralight H600w and its silicon holder.
Click to expand...
Mine arrived in the holder. After greasing can it be turned fairly easily with one hand when on your head?
 
Beacon of Light said:
I have this same problem and I noticed this problem happening almost e very time I went to use the voltage indicator as you need to get to the strobe setting and then after it finishes reading the voltage you need to turn the light off as it stays in a constant loop of reading the voltage.

With Zebralight, it will revert back to the mode you had it in prior to the voltage indicator. Also the Liteflux L2XT will revert back to the prior mode after a voltage test. Just another gripe about the Armytek to me as others have done it correctly but Armytek failed in this regard and it's not a question of preference it is whether they succeeded or failed.

So after I turn the light off after the voltage indicator, the light fails to turn back on. I have to do what the pther poster does and remove the tailcap and then tighten it and it may or may not come back on the first try. This to me seems like a critical bug that shouldn't have been released if this happens to all lights. (It happens with both my Pro regular and wide U3)

I still have to find out if returning these will be on my dime or not and if it needs to go back to China or Canada. All in all it was a hope this would be as evolutionary as KnightLight made it seem but to me this fell flat after being used to Zevbralights all these years. Not sure how he could look at the Armytek favorably over the H600. I don't even have a H600, but I view my H51s, H502s and H31s in favor of either Armytek I have, and they run on AAs or CR123s.
Click to expand...

I can confirm the failure to power on after some playing with different setting can be reproduced on both my wizards pro (regural and wide). At first i thaught it happens only on the wide. But after using the regural more it happend there as well. I'm in contact with support, Sandre responded, that they have to talk to the technicians. I hope this issue will be solvable without exchange - but i suppose it would be not.
 
ArcticHighlander said:
Mine arrived in the holder. After greasing can it be turned fairly easily with one hand when on your head?
Click to expand...

Well, in my case I was able to turn it more easily but while on my head I think I needed to use two hands to keep the light/strap on my head. I only tested it in the house, not in practice, and I only put the slightest amount of gel on it. You would need to experiment - AND - I believe you can do so safely if you use Nyogel. After all, that is what is used on the threads of the flashlights I own. They all have o-rings and those rings are covered in the stuff, from the manufacturer. It may not be a good idea to use a petroleum based product.
 
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I think putting any kind of lubricant on the holder is only appropriate if the headlamp will continually stay in the holder, otherwise it will be just too messy. The best solution would be to remove a small amount of material from the holder, I am still trying to figure out the best way to accomplish that. In my opinion the holder is definitely designed to tight, having said that I have no problems turning the headlamp in the holder with one hand on my head.
 
Beacon of Light said:
I have this same problem and I noticed this problem happening almost e very time I went to use the voltage indicator as you need to get to the strobe setting and then after it finishes reading the voltage you need to turn the light off as it stays in a constant loop of reading the voltage.

With Zebralight, it will revert back to the mode you had it in prior to the voltage indicator. Also the Liteflux L2XT will revert back to the prior mode after a voltage test. Just another gripe about the Armytek to me as others have done it correctly but Armytek failed in this regard and it's not a question of preference it is whether they succeeded or failed.
Click to expand...
If you double-click when you are in the specialty modes the light will return to whatever memorized mode you last used in Section 2.

Beacon of Light said:
So after I turn the light off after the voltage indicator, the light fails to turn back on. I have to do what the pther poster does and remove the tailcap and then tighten it and it may or may not come back on the first try. This to me seems like a critical bug that shouldn't have been released if this happens to all lights. (It happens with both my Pro regular and wide U3)

I still have to find out if returning these will be on my dime or not and if it needs to go back to China or Canada.
Click to expand...
I don’t think any light should have that quirky behavior and should definitely be sent back for warranty work.

Beacon of Light said:
All in all it was a hope this would be as evolutionary as KnightLight made it seem but to me this fell flat after being used to Zevbralights all these years. Not sure how he could look at the Armytek favorably over the H600. I don't even have a H600 (waiting for their H602-hopefully soon), but I view my H51s, H502s and H31s in favor of either Armytek I have, and they run on AAs or CR123s and not the superior capacity 18650 cells the Armytek uses.
Click to expand...
I still think the Armytek is evolutionary in this particular market segment and my reasons are scattered throughout this thread. That is just my opinion from owning and operating both headlamps.

What is interesting to see is how Armytek handles all of these potential customer service requests. I hope it does not follow in the footsteps of poor customer service that has been recently associated with zebra light instead of taking an example and a page from someone like 4/7's.
 
tony613 said:
Well, in my case I was able to turn it more easily but while on my head I think I needed to use two hands to keep the light/strap on my head. I only tested it in the house, not in practice, and I only put the slightest amount of gel on it. You would need to experiment - AND - I believe you can do so safely if you use Nyogel. After all, that is what is used on the threads of the flashlights I own. They all have o-rings and those rings are covered in the stuff, from the manufacturer. It may not be a good idea to use a petroleum based product.
Click to expand...
I personally use fluorinated grease on all of my stuff. I prefer it over anything I have seen and it is relatively cheap. It also is a little bit thicker and stays where you put it.
 
Mine arrived today and seems to be working fine, none of the issues reported by others here. When I had first received it I found that sometimes a click of the button would not turn it on, but if I pressed harder it always would, now it seems to be working perfectly. There is certainly PWM on Firefly mode 1 though, but that may be for higher efficiency (there is a point where lower current makes efficiency drop).

Beam is about perfect in every way; no artifacts at all, very clean/smooth and perfectly formed for close to mid-range utility. The 5500k tint on the U2 is really good, CRI seems noticably higher than my other cool whites. The headband is very sturdy too, a big improvement over Zebralight imo.

Preliminary and very rough OTF output readings suggest 170/360/725 for the top three modes rather than the 250/550/1010 listed by Armytek. I'll test again when it is dark though and I can get more accuracy.

Overall, I am impressed. Time will tell though as it isn't even dark yet.


There is one other thing that I would add, and this is not certain. However, even through the diffused TIR the LED looks much more likely to be a gen 1 XM-L than an XM-L2, due to a quite noticable (when you are looking for it) band of green directly around the yellow of the LED die itself (this is of course when looking into the head with the light off rather than referring to the beam).

Whether this is an issue is subjective, as of course it doesn't change the function of the light itself. If I like it how it is then why should I care if it has and XM-L or XM-L2? I may also be wrong. But I would appreciate some clarification from Armytek on the matter.
 
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If you want to try the lubrication method before making permanent modifications, whatever your lubricant of choice, here are 1,000+ words of applying it in a tidy fashion.

Put the lubricant on the tip of something blunt (a flat ended toothpick will work fine)
Raise the supporting strap of the silicon loop
Place the lubricant on the silicon or the flashlight
Rotate the flashlight to evenly spread the lubricant
Repeat the procedure for the other silicon loop
Wipe off excess

9298839773_4447b52930.jpg
 
ArcticHighlander said:
Are both safe for use with the rubber(?) holder or will they cause it to gradually rot out?
Click to expand...
Beacon of Light said:
Vaseline or any petroleum product is NOT recommended for rubber O-rings and the holder seems to be made of rubber, so...
Click to expand...
What are o-rings made of? lol :) Nyogel is perfectly fine to use as are most types of oil (motor oil, etc.).

tony613 said:
If you want to try the lubrication method before making permanent modifications, whatever your lubricant of choice, here are 1,000+ words of applying it in a tidy fashion.

Put the lubricant on the tip of something blunt (a flat ended toothpick will work fine)
Raise the supporting strap of the silicon loop
Place the lubricant on the silicon or the flashlight
Rotate the flashlight to evenly spread the lubricant
Repeat the procedure for the other silicon loop
Wipe off excess

9298839773_4447b52930.jpg
Click to expand...
Sweet! Thanks for the info and pics, I'ma lube mine up right now.

-Jamie M.
 
i just got mine :) the normal cool white narrow one, i also have a zl h600w, and the light output is similar, but no stepdown! (great for bike/snowboard) and much nice beam pattern
 
I'm happy with my H600 but still tempted by this wide model. Changing the armytek headband so it didn't look like something out of 1972 would be nice...yes, I'm that vain :)
 
these look nice- I might have to get one of the neutral/warm narrows when theyre back in stock.

Im probably the only one who wishes there were just a simple lo-med-hi UI hahah

not a deal breaker tho. soooo glad it doesnt step down on HIGH
 
some initial thoughts:

-if u hold down the power from off, it cycles through all the modes
-headband is comfortable and sturdy, but looks quite cheap... (better then the zebra through)
-no way to go straight to turbo, u have to click, and then double click
-voltage indicator is quite difficult to get to, 4 clicks to strobe, and then cycle between 3 strobes to get to the voltage
-the normal narrow version is better imo, there is NO hotspot on mine, and the spill isnt any bigger on the wide version
-i ran it on turbo pointed up to light up a room, and after 5 mins, the heat protection kicked in (5blinks and goes to 100lm to cool off) then went back after 10-15s of cooling automatically. I presume that outside with some wind it will stay in turbo for the hour.
-firefly mode is nowhere near as low as the zebra, but just right for pitch dark conditions
 
petr9999 said:
some initial thoughts:

-if u hold down the power from off, it cycles through all the modes
-headband is comfortable and sturdy, but looks quite cheap... (better then the zebra through)
-no way to go straight to turbo, u have to click, and then double click
-voltage indicator is quite difficult to get to, 4 clicks to strobe, and then cycle between 3 strobes to get to the voltage
-the normal narrow version is better imo, there is NO hotspot on mine, and the spill isnt any bigger on the wide version
-i ran it on turbo pointed up to light up a room, and after 5 mins, the heat protection kicked in (5blinks and goes to 100lm to cool off) then went back after 10-15s of cooling automatically. I presume that outside with some wind it will stay in turbo for the hour.
-firefly mode is nowhere near as low as the zebra, but just right for pitch dark conditions
Click to expand...

1) voltage indicator
But remember, the mode is remembered, so if you leave it in "voltage indicator" mode, then the next time you 4 click to strobe, "voltage indicator" mode will be the mode entered - first - no scrolling needed.

2) heat protection
It stepped back up again ... didn't know that, and it's pretty cool, no pun intended.
 
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petr9999 said:
-no way to go straight to turbo, u have to click, and then double click
Click to expand...

If you go into turbo mode then unscrew the tailcap a little, hold the button down and re-tighten then you have instant access to momentary turbo mode. It's not quite the same but I think this 'tactical' mode is actually a nice addition to the UI.
 
I know both of these, I usually read my manuals :D however 4 clicks still seems like a hassle... its quite difficult for me to pull it off with one hand :D and the tactical mode is NICE, but its not what I want, I usually run my zebralight on max, and all I have to do is press the button, here I have to press, wait and double click (but It stays in max!)
 
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