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All looking just about as fresh as day one.
Missing from the collection is another H52w that’s on the headband (and actually being used out in the world).

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The SC600fd III Plus is a bit of a novelty. It certainly has a hint of the greens. It’ll really show the pink in the SC52w, the peach in the H52w and the far more pure white in the H502d.
On its own though it’s not too bad, particularly at higher levels.

Always good to rediscover lights.
 
Went for a walk with the SC52w L2. Also took a light with a similar beam shape in 3000K 519a. A bit of warmth to a beam always feels a bit cosier and less spooky.
Took a few fairly rubbish pics shining the ZL around. I enjoyed using the little guy.


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Thought I’d stop by the swamp to visit Kermit while I was at it. Only heard a few relatives though.
 
thanks for the great throw data and photos ;-)

minor correction (wont change the throw values)..
G5 default uses levels 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12,

not levels 3, and 7 as highlighted:
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This is a common source of confusion due to the way Zebrslight uses the terms L2, M2, H2, when they actually program those outputs to Levels 2, 6, and 10
 
thanks for the great throw data and photos ;-)

minor correction (wont change the throw values)..
G5 default uses levels 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12,

not levels 3, and 7 as highlighted:
View attachment 79651

This is a common source of confusion due to the way Zebrslight uses the terms L2, M2, H2, when they actually program those outputs to Levels 2, 6, and 10
Thanks for the info! I guess it makes sense, but the way how they mention it on their website makes you think the default H2 is 11, M2 is 7 and L2 is 3 instead of 10-6-2.

I'll have to update this table and another one I have with all my other flashlights which I mostly use to compare runtimes between different flashlights at similar outputs.
 
the way how they mention it on their website makes you think the default H2 is 11, M2 is 7 and L2 is 3 instead of 10-6-2.
agree
I only know different because I have a Lumen meter.. You might also be able to confirm the alternating mode spacing by checking outputs w your Lux Meter

thanks again for sharing info and pics.. I. hope you continue enjoying your Zebras ;-)
 
agree
I only know different because I have a Lumen meter.. You might also be able to confirm the alternating mode spacing by checking outputs w your Lux Meter

thanks again for sharing info and pics.. I. hope you continue enjoying your Zebras ;-)
To setup G6 I had to use the luxmeter sometimes to double check I chose the right mode I wanted, I always go to minimum or maximum and count from there but it can still get tricky.

Since I setup G6 the way I like I didn't touch G5 anymore.

A McBob Zebra might be on the way, just getting started!
 
Went for a walk with the SC52w L2. Also took a light with a similar beam shape in 3000K 519a. A bit of warmth to a beam always feels a bit cosier and less spooky.
Took a few fairly rubbish pics shining the ZL around. I enjoyed using the little guy.


View attachment 79587View attachment 79591
Thought I'd stop by the swamp to visit Kermit while I was at it. Only heard a few relatives though.
The CRI on some of these pics is incredible. Was looking hard for the whites of the eyes of something interesting hiding in there. A ZL (4k) 719A SC65c would be fun here or even a McBob (5k) XHP35 SC65.
 
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The CRI on some of these pics is incredible. Was looking hard for the whites of the eyes of something interesting hiding in there. A ZL (4k) 719A SC65c would be fun here or even a McBob (5k) XHP35 SC65.
They were all from the SC52w L2. Whilst not a high CRI LED a good tint and white whites go a long way.
The phone's internal processing may or may not represent a true image but I'd say that what you're seeing in the photos is a reasonable estimation of what I was seeing with my eyes in the beam from the SC52.
I heard plenty of critters but didn't poke around too much to expose any.
Yep, both those lights (you mention) would be great.

I've been walking that area once a week recently. A 1x16340 light with a 3000K 519a and nice big spot and floody beam and an SF EDC1-DFT have been what's taken. I couldn't use the 519a 3000K generally, it's so yellow and a bit too warm for my tastes but it's fine in the sticks and adds that bit of warmth to keep the spooky away.
I thought I'd take the little ZL for a bit of fun.

As much as I'm a high CRI addict, I have to say that it doesn't matter or even get noticed that much when you're in the sticks etc. A good tint with average CRI makes as good or better light.
That said I do use high CRI lights a lot.
I'm actually becoming more practical and objective in my assessment as I would never have heard nor considered anything less than something like the Nichia 219b sw45k. Credit where due though, the SC52w L2 and its XML2 creates a fine quality beam no doubts.
 
As much as I'm a high CRI addict, I have to say that it doesn't matter or even get noticed that much when you're in the sticks etc. A good tint with average CRI makes as good or better light.
That said I do use high CRI lights a lot.
I'm actually becoming more practical and objective in my assessment as I would never have heard nor considered anything less than something like the Nichia 219b sw45k. Credit where due though, the SC52w L2 and its XML2 creates a fine quality beam no doubts.
Thanks for the info, totally agree on this. The SC52w L2 has a good reputation, I've never owned one but it appears to have a very large and loyal user base for good reason. I'm very satisfied with the tiny SC65c form factor and quality build for a 18650 light.
 
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Does anyone have any experience with these Vapcell N40 18650 batteries, I understand they fit in Zebralight 18650 lights.

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N40 is all I use in the SC65 18650 light! That light maxes out at 2.25 amps so your good at under 10 amps and they last a long time in the Zebras...

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Thanks much, I'll give them a try. Have had good results with their T8 & now T9 16340s.
 
I like to program my SC65c HI using the table below.
All the numbers in the left column indicate how many double clicks to make.
Once you get to the lowest mode of 0.03 (triple click down), the next double click will be the first level after 0.03.
I find this very easy, at least for me.

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I like to program my SC65c HI using the table below..
That works! Nice chart.

I prefer a L-M-H setup also:
- - -
1 click On = (Most used) = Low .. (Approx. 0.4 Lm is great for dark night in-house/car navigation etc.).

Long press On = Medium
= If (On), from Low; Long bumps it higher to Med.
= If (On), from High; Long bumps it lower to Med.
= If (On) & already in Medium, Long bumps it higher

2 clicks from Off = (Least used) = High ..

Ymmv ... My G6/(G7) qk-ref. chart:
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indigon, your charts look great, easy to understand

I also use my G6 with
1C to Low,
Hold to Medium,
2C to High

for nightstand use, my G7 has the first 6 outputs, like this:

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after testing the low modes, I. pick whichever one is the lowest useable in my dark house. and add it to my G6 program, so it is set up for a 24 hour EDC role.

how to program my Zebras

not a video, but maybe this will make sense to you

1. turn on the light at the output you want to change,

for example, lets say I want to change one of the 1 Clic outputs. So I Clic one time to turn the light ON

2. now keep the light ON for at least 5 seconds and then go into the programming menu by doing 12 clics..

3. now we can raise the output with 2 Clics, or lower the output with 3 clics

If things get confused, you can factory reset G6 by doing 18 clics from Off

===


Here are some videos
 
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