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jon_slider said:
Alkaline is one of the options most suited for postapocalyptic scenarios.. lol ;-)

there are even sublumen tests on AAA, that help to verify Zebralights published runtime specs:
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I wasn't going to bring this up until later, but I started my SC5w II running at level 2 with an alkaline AA cell on September 29. Its been running a bit over 1500 hrs presently. The cell is presently at 1.40V, so 3000 hrs on an alki seems attainable. The SC5w II on level 2 draws about 12% more current than my HC53c N on level 2.
 
ilikeguns40 said:
SC30w
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Congrats, fun little find.

I picked up its taller brother yesterday.

AA/14500 Zebra from 2023. Reaches 500 Lumens on LiIon, with a 4000K 519a:

IMG_2854.jpg
 
Jon,where did you find that SC53c N?

BTW, just found a SC53c N on CPF Marketplace. I blame you. (I'm joking.)
 
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sbslider said:
I wasn't going to bring this up until later, but I started my SC5w II running at level 2 with an alkaline AA cell on September 29. Its been running a bit over 1500 hrs presently. The cell is presently at 1.40V, so 3000 hrs on an alki seems attainable. The SC5w II on level 2 draws about 12% more current than my HC53c N on level 2.
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The man of the hours strikes again! Looking forward to the day you decide to (unwittingly) test whether the sippage is lower than the self discharge of a 14500 LiIon cell...the highest rated capacity so far is 1500mAh on a vapcell f15, with the only issue being length. In theory, it might go almost mid 4000's of hours based solely on the power ratings...only if the light has Overdischarge protection like LVP...
 
AMD64Brunette said:
Does anyone know why the SC80 was discontinued?

(handled both CR123 and AA in the same body.)
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If they make it, then I will buy one! (With updated emitter, driver, etc.)
And note that it will automatically have 14500 support, since the driver has to run off 16340 cells as well as 1.5v cells.
(I guess they *could* make it so that it ran only off CR123 primaries at 3v but not 16340s at 4.2v. But that would be a mistake!)
Given how the company is evolving, I think it is very unlikely that they will go in this direction. But if anyone has an old SC80 cluttering up their junk drawer, then PM me!
 
Oh, and while we are talking about tiny:
Here are two CR123-based Zebras: the small H32, and its even smaller predecessor, the H30:
 

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I been happy with my Zebralights for years now.have a SC51 ,SC 52W and SC5W. Recently I tried using EBL and EXTAR rechargeable AA lithium 1.5 v batteries in all the lights. I found that the EB 3000 work on all levels in the SC51 abs SC 52 but start blinking after 5 minutes of continuous running at that level on the highest level and then shut down . I suspect the thermal sensor in the battery becomes activated then. However with the SC5 W different story . None of the EBL or EXTAR batteries seem to work except momentarily. Not sure why. Any ideas? Gotta say again though that SC51 and SC 52W both work fine at all other levels except the highest . Am considering getting the new SC54c N but wondered if any one else had tried it with EBLs or EXTAR AA rechargeable batteries.
 
entendu said:
start blinking after 5 minutes of continuous running at that level on the highest level and then shut down...
Am considering getting the new SC54c N but wondered if any one else had tried it with EBLs or EXTAR AA rechargeable batteries.
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have not seen any report except yours.. sounds like they dont work very well..

Eneloops are the best option for SC54c N afaik.
 
Thanks for the test results
While I don't have a calibrated light meter I can monitor output with a radio shack soar cell and an amp meter. Doing so I have used the EXTAR 2700 mAh in the SC52w at the H2 level ,It ran for 2 hr 47 minutes. The EBL 3000 battery only ran 1 hr 31 minutes. I saw lower run times for the EXTAR 4150 battery . I am not certain but suspect that the higher voltage 1.5 vs 1.2v with eneloops would produce a slightly brighter output but I cannot be certain. Again at highest level for these lights ( H1 ) the thermal sensor in the battery cuts off the light after about 5 minutes for theses batteries . However , I do believe the use the H2 level vs the highest level is acceptable in that the difference in brightness though real is not a great deal more useful.
 
I currently have two ZL headlamps that I am very happy with - H600Fc MK IV Floody, 4000 K High CRI, and H600Fw Mk IV Floody, 4500K. I slightly prefer the Fc. My uses are night-time hiking, indoor close-up work and night-time patio/campsite hang out.

I am curious about a spot+spill version and how that might compare to the Floody versions that I already have (maybe I am looking for an excuse to buy more stuff!!!). To this end, I am thinking about obtaining an H600c (4000K) or H600d (5000K). I'd be interested in anyone's experience/opinion on
the following:
  • For nigh-time walking (neighborhood or woods), do you prefer Floody or spot+spill; and
  • Do you prefer 4000K vs 5000K for the woods (both are high CRI)
Your thoughts will be much appreciated!!
 
entendu said:
Thanks for the test results
While I don't have a calibrated light meter I can monitor output with a radio shack soar cell and an amp meter. Doing so I have used the EXTAR 2700 mAh in the SC52w at the H2 level ,It ran for 2 hr 47 minutes. The EBL 3000 battery only ran 1 hr 31 minutes. I saw lower run times for the EXTAR 4150 battery . I am not certain but suspect that the higher voltage 1.5 vs 1.2v with eneloops would produce a slightly brighter output but I cannot be certain. Again at highest level for these lights ( H1 ) the thermal sensor in the battery cuts off the light after about 5 minutes for theses batteries . However , I do believe the use the H2 level vs the highest level is acceptable in that the difference in brightness though real is not a great deal more useful.
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My h53fcn works well on max with the 4300 xtars, the stepdown doesn't occur, probably because the light doesn't get warm enough.
 
ScottsoSmith said:
H600d (5000K)
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I bought an H600d recently, it is very floody.. the hotspot is very wide (I have not tried the Frosted lens option and have not tried the 4000K option).. I wrote a post with more details here.

I chose 5000K because I wanted maximum perceived brightness, and chose no Frosted lens, for maximum throw. The intended use model was for Night Skiing, but I have not actually used it for that application. atm it is sitting in my skiing pack, but mostly stays in the car while I ski during the day ;-)

For closer range activities, and not on snow, I think 4000K and Frosted can be fine. Mostly a matter of personal taste.. I avoided Frosted because it limits distance. The unFrosted beam is extremely floody anyway, and achieves a few more lumens, for maximum distance applications. At closer range I think Frosting can be very nice. (my only frosted Zebra is an H53Fc N. The throw is very constained it reaches half as far as my SC53c N (same LED, no frosting)
 
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