The Official Zebralight Thread

[gurdygurds]

Deleted

 

[gurdygurds]

Mule headlamp arrived yesterday. Short review….it’s awesome. For around the house use it’s perfect. Programmed it without issue, played with it handheld as well as in headlamp mode and I’m happy I went with it. Also think it will be perfect for campsite use. If I need throw another light in the pocket can handle that. Really dig this tiny thing.

Long review.....I returned it. Ended up feeling like something was being left on the table with the light having absolutely zero throw. Loved the size and great for up close, but the light dropped off so fast at any distance that I decided to return it. Now I'm contemplating an H54C N or trying to source another H53C N. The newer ones are supposedly more efficient no?

 

[jon_slider]

The newer ones are supposedly more efficient no?

yes, the specs show longer runtime for the H54c N:

 

[lampeDépêche]

Long review.....I returned it. Ended up feeling like something was being left on the table with the light having absolutely zero throw. Loved the size and great for up close, but the light dropped off so fast at any distance that I decided to return it.

Ah, the conundrum of the H502. As mulish as a mule can be -- if you like that sort of thing, it's the sort of thing you'll like. Tiny, bright, efficient, runs on all of the cells.
And for special purposes -- e.g. close-up work where you want an even field of illumination with no hot-spot -- mules are great.
But it's so specialized that it is at the opposite end from a do-it-all light. If you can only have one light, you might well choose an H53 or 54. They can do all of the lighting tasks pretty well. But an H502 is a one-trick mule. It does one thing really well, and is not much good at most other kinds of lighting tasks.

 

[gurdygurds]

Ah, the conundrum of the H502. As mulish as a mule can be -- if you like that sort of thing, it's the sort of thing you'll like. Tiny, bright, efficient, runs on all of the cells.
And for special purposes -- e.g. close-up work where you want an even field of illumination with no hot-spot -- mules are great.
But it's so specialized that it is at the opposite end from a do-it-all light. If you can only have one light, you might well choose an H53 or 54. They can do all of the lighting tasks pretty well. But an H502 is a one-trick mule. It does one thing really well, and is not much good at most other kinds of lighting tasks.

Thanks @jon_slider and yes @lampeDépêche, it is definitely a purpose built light. But again, you don't know until you know. Finger hovering over the checkout button on the ZL website for an H54........

 

[lampeDépêche]

Finger hovering over the checkout button on the ZL website for an H54........

I have never regretted any ZL headlamp I have purchased. And the H53 really is my light of last resort, i.e. if I can take only one light that's the one. (If I can take two, then my SC64w HI is #2).

 

[gurdygurds]

I’m back riding a zebra. Found a good deal on an h54 user. Looks like it was dropped into a garbage disposal but functions perfectly. Now I will re-secure a standard straight AA model zebra and all will be right in the world. Until I have another fit of insanity and sell off my lights. Looking for the SC5C II LE that I used to have. Chunkier yes, but the knurling on the little Zebras is neat. I asked Zebralight a little while back if they had plans to bring back the knurled bodies on the smaller lights and they said no. I cried a little.

 

[jon_slider]

Found a good deal on an h54 user.

congrats!
according to this post, McBob may have some SC5

 

[gurdygurds]

congrats!
according to this post, McBob may have some SC5

I think Bob hates me. I’ve messaged him but haven’t heard back.

 

[gurdygurds]

My point is that the ratio of candelas to lumens is identical regardless of output, so you just need one stable measurement to calculate throw at any output. If the FC11C's throw is underperforming on turbo compared to other levels, it's because the output is lower than anticipated, not because cd/lm is different on turbo. It saves you a lot of work and is significantly more accurate to check throw the way I'm suggesting.

PM sent sir!
Help me @Bob_McBob - Kenobi …you’re my only hope.

 

[sbslider]

Looking for the SC5C II LE that I used to have. Chunkier yes, but the knurling on the little Zebras is neat. I asked Zebralight a little while back if they had plans to bring back the knurled bodies on the smaller lights and they said no. I cried a little.

I saw your post in WTB on BLF also for a SC5C II LE. I have a SC5w II. Same knurled body, not high CRI though. It just finished running on level 2 for 116 days. If you're interested let me know, I sort of owe you one . . .

 

[gurdygurds]

I saw your post in WTB on BLF also for a SC5C II LE. I have a SC5w II. Same knurled body, not high CRI though. It just finished running on level 2 for 116 days. If you're interested let me know, I sort of owe you one . . .

PM inbound sir

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Love my SC53c.

Perfect combo of size,brightness,and usability.

 

[jon_slider]

Love my SC53c.

great to hear

I really like the small form factor too.
I use the SC53 around the house a lot more than the SC64:

btw, I recommend the SC64 over the SC65, because the driver has lower flicker index:

 

[Brokenarrow]

Has anyone come up with a good resolution to the absent magnet?
This is all I can come up with and it's just ugly! I have several SC64 & 65 that I would edc but a magnet just comes in handy sometimes.
That is a piece of GITD on top of a magnet currently that I stuck on with JB weld.

 

[dc38]

Has anyone come up with a good resolution to the absent magnet?
This is all I can come up with and it's just ugly! I have several SC64 & 65 that I would edc but a magnet just comes in handy sometimes.
That is a piece of GITD on top

You're probably going to have to buy one and stick it in after removing the tail spring..

 

[sbslider]

I've considered adding a magnet to my H53. I'm not sure if there's a PCB at the bottom? I tried adding a magnet through the spring, and it didn't really seem to do much through the metal, and possibly a PCB if there is one.

 

[dc38]

I've considered adding a magnet to my H53. I'm not sure if there's a PCB at the bottom? I tried adding a magnet through the spring, and it didn't really seem to do much through the metal, and possibly a PCB if there is one.

The magnet might not be powerful enough...what size/strength did you use?

Something interesting to note...while there isn't a stock magnet in my h53fcn, there's something in the tailcap that magnetizes when another magnet is applied to it.

From the looks of the "pcb", it looks glued on. Might be necessary to remove it in order to stick a larger magnet in there...

 

[jon_slider]

I tried adding a magnet through the spring, and it didn't really seem to do much

What diameter and thickness of magnet did you use?

 

[sbslider]

What diameter and thickness of magnet did you use?

Its a neodymium 4mm on a side cube. Not ideal, but I just was fooling around.

from the looks of the "pcb", it looks glued on. Might be necessary to remove it in order to stick a larger magnet in there...

Hmm, sounds like too much work. I also have another round magnet almost the diameter of the tailcap. Would definitely need to be glued on the outside. Not quite ready to try that yet . . .