The Official Zebralight Thread

[dc38]

Its a neodymium 4mm on a side cube. Not ideal, but I just was fooling around.

Hmm, sounds like too much work. I also have another round magnet almost the diameter of the tailcap. Would definitely need to be glued on the outside. Not quite ready to try that yet . . .

Well, if you do, you could always use shrink wrapping/tubing. It wouldn't be permanent, and allow some bumper action.

**put a layer of kapton tape to prevent scratching, then the magnet, and slide the enclosed shrink tubing over and heat it up

 

[sbslider]

I'm not so worried about scratching the tailcap, it's a bit worn already. but I do appreciate the plan for future reference. I suppose if I put the tape, glue, magnet, I could just peel the magnet off if I changed my mind. Hmm, now you got me thinking . . .

 

[jon_slider]

double sided foam tape will hold a magnet to the outside, and is still easily removable if you change your mind.

both magnets are strong enough to hold the light but too big to fit in the spring

or if you prefer to use a magnet inside the spring, you could buy some of these 10mm x 1mm magnets.. (I measured the base of the spring and I think they fit.. you should confirm, or buy smaller), you could double up to make stronger..

 

[gurdygurds]

Well….in a spontaneous fit of flashaholiscism, I hit buy it now on an old Zebralight sc62. For $40 I thought what the heck. Now I’m in need of a charger and battery. Is it true that that SC62 can fit protected 18650 batteries, and if so which ones do you recommend I try to buy. Was looking at these and an Xtar X2 charger.

https://illumn.com/18650-keeppower-p1838c-3800mah-protected-button-top.html

 

[jon_slider]

congrats on your new old Zebra ;-)

Is it true that that SC62 can fit protected 18650 batteries,

maybe,

there Is a spring in the head, so that should work for a Button Top:

maybe also ask the battery seller which battery they recommend for your light

the battery you are considering is listed as
Dimensions:
69.20mm (L)

the selfbuilt review says:

"Battery: One 18650 size (up to 69mm long)"
and he shows a photo of a button top:
(same brand, and also a protected button top, but less capacity so maybe shorter than the one you linked)

then he says:
"As with the SC600-II, there is a small spring on the positive terminal contact board in the head. All my 18650 cells seem to fit and work inside the light (although really long or thick protected high capacity batteries may have issues)."

(the battery you linked is high capacity and may be too long)

why gamble on a protected button top when you could buy a shorter unprotected flat top for a lower price? The Zebralight sc62 has built in LVP anyway.

for example:

https://illumn.com/18650-sanyo-ncr18650ga-3500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

that is the same battery Zebralight sells:

Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA 3450mAh 10A 18650 Li-ion Flat Top

www.zebralight.com

Maybe email Zebralight and get their opinion on what battery to use.

 

[gurdygurds]

congrats on your new old Zebra ;-)


maybe,

there Is a spring in the head, so that should work for a Button Top:

View attachment 89988

maybe also ask the battery seller which battery they recommend for your light

the battery you are considering is listed as
Dimensions:
69.20mm (L)

the selfbuilt review says:

"Battery: One 18650 size (up to 69mm long)"
and he shows a photo of a button top:
(same brand, and also a protected button top, but less capacity so maybe shorter than the one you linked)
View attachment 89989
then he says:
"As with the SC600-II, there is a small spring on the positive terminal contact board in the head. All my 18650 cells seem to fit and work inside the light (although really long or thick protected high capacity batteries may have issues)."

(the battery you linked is high capacity and may be too long)

why gamble on a protected button top when you could buy a shorter unprotected flat top for a lower price? The Zebralight sc62 has built in LVP anyway.

for example:

https://illumn.com/18650-sanyo-ncr18650ga-3500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html

that is the same battery Zebralight sells:

Panasonic/Sanyo NCR18650GA 3450mAh 10A 18650 Li-ion Flat Top

www.zebralight.com

Maybe email Zebralight and get their opinion on what battery to use.

Thanks John. I just figured, and apparently this can be controversial from other threads I read, that better to have protection in the light as well as the cell. Seller was using unprotected flattops.

 

[jon_slider]

better to have protection in the light as well as the cell

disagree
a protected cell adds the possibility that the light will shut off on max output due to the battery protection tripping unnecessarily

maybe our resident expert @Bob_McBob will stop by to enlighten us ;-)

 

[gurdygurds]

disagree
a protected cell adds the possibility that the light will shut off on max output due to the battery protection tripping unnecessarily

maybe our resident expert @Bob_McBob will stop by to enlighten us ;-)

Yes I need to review the ins and outs of LVP and the care and feeding of lithium ion cells. H1 will not be used as a normal setting for me either. 1000 lumens? Holy cats.

 

[gurdygurds]

What’s your favorite anodizing that Zebralight has done. I only have one currently and it’s the dark, basically black, like the middle one in this photo. I think I prefer the medium one on the right.

 

[Brokenarrow]

Has anyone here ever sanded all the anodizing off a Zebralight down to bare aluminum?


It’s time-consuming, but I’ve done it on a few Hank lights and they turned out great. Hank’s anodizing is pretty thin and comes off easily.


I just picked up an SC65 with some scrapes to use as a donor, so I’m thinking about stripping it completely and going full “naked.” Curious if anyone’s done this on a Zeb and how it went.

 

[jon_slider]

I just picked up an SC65 with some scrapes

congrats on your new light, I hope the stripping goes smoothly.. no experience to share on that. Ive read that some people use oven cleaner to chemically remove the anodizing instead of abrasive sanding.



otoh, the reason Im replying is to share an alternative for covering the scrapes. I have used an Anodizing pen with good success in turning scrapes black. (after sanding them smooth if needed).

This is an actual chemical anodizing liquid. It is a clear liquid, not just a black paint.

Here is an example of a ding on an SC65, that I smoothed with emery boards (for fingernails) to remove any raised burrs, and then used the Anodizing pen to make the exposed aluminum black again:

you can see the marks are black, the light color near the bezel is just a light reflection

the nice thing about this product is it does not matter if some of it gets on the undamaged anodizing, it remains unchanged. The treated area ends up being a good color match for the stock anodizing, and the color does not rub off.. recommended for minor touchups. I dont know how badly scratched your light is, but it may be worth considering.

 

[dc38]

Ive read that some people use oven cleaner to chemically remove the anodizing instead of abrasive sanding.

Some videos show the anodizing sloughing off like old skin...not sure if they're fake though

 

[Brokenarrow]

congrats on your new light, I hope the stripping goes smoothly.. no experience to share on that. Ive read that some people use oven cleaner to chemically remove the anodizing instead of abrasive sanding.



otoh, the reason Im replying is to share an alternative for covering the scrapes. I have used an Anodizing pen with good success in turning scrapes black. (after sanding them smooth if needed).
View attachment 90044

This is an actual chemical anodizing liquid. It is a clear liquid, not just a black paint.

Here is an example of a ding on an SC65, that I smoothed with emery boards (for fingernails) to remove any raised burrs, and then used the Anodizing pen to make the exposed aluminum black again:
View attachment 90042
you can see the marks are black, the light color near the bezel is just a light reflection

the nice thing about this product is it does not matter if some of it gets on the undamaged anodizing, it remains unchanged. The treated area ends up being a good color match for the stock anodizing, and the color does not rub off.. recommended for minor touchups. I dont know how badly scratched your light is, but it may be worth considering.

Thanks for that Jon I may give it a try on other torches- I bought this sc65 which really is not bad at all specifically for a tester to "unanodize"
I wonder if that pen would work on the magnet although they obviously are not aluminum.....

 

[jon_slider]

I wonder if that pen would work on the magnet

I just tried it on a neodymium magnet, which afaik is nickel plated. The pen does take away the shiny silver look and at some angles the color does look black..

 

[Bob_McBob]

The H600 is the only Zebralight model with enough space to fit a useful magnet in the tail. I would not recommend attempting to remove the tailcap PCB; it's glued in with silicone adhesive and you will likely destroy it.

 

[AMD64Brunette]

No idea what happened.. my Zebralight SC53c mysteriously appeared in my left middle shorts pocket.

I swear I didn't do anything.

Was it aliens?

 

[gurdygurds]

No idea what happened.. my Zebralight SC53c mysteriously appeared in my left middle shorts pocket.

I swear I didn't do anything.

Was it aliens?

Yes……..zebra aliens.

 

[russprechtl]

Was it aliens?

Gremlins. Just don't get them wet.

 

[dc38]

Gremlins. Just don't get them wet.

OMG. After all these years I finally understand why they multiply when wet. I guess I finally grew up.

 

[jon_slider]

they multiply when wet

now you tell me: