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Lost in the CPF mists of time, @reppans did extensive sublumen efficiency tests, and the Peak converters scored extremely well.

This is partly because it is a "semi-regulated" driver, ie output is not flat over the total runtime.

I often use my Peaks as "battery drainers / volt vampires / joule thieves" because they will fire up the emitter at such low voltage. I find that when a cell will not light a Peak, there is almost nothing else I can find that it will run.

Is the QTC unreliable ? Short answer, yes. Yes it is. Can always remove it though. It is a simple but admittedly somewhat crude way to create variable output. I like the concept personally, but plenty of people don't. The key is being aware of, and to a certain degree accepting of, its limitations.
 
Re: Current "Best" single AA light, favoring KISS and long runtimes over high output



Yup, correct... and this is just at sub-lumen levels where efficiency tends to vary widely since the driver overhead tends to represent a larger proportion of the power consumption. At low and medium outputs, the lights tend to perform more similarly in terms of lumen-hours since driver overhead becomes immaterial to the LED consumption... then LED efficiency becomes more important. As I mentioned above somewhere, the SC52s worst in test lumen-hours is mostly due to it being so dim (all driver power consumption at firefly and below outputs) - it's plenty efficient on the brighter modes. My issue is that ZL exaggerates its specs so much.... esp. among this peer group.



In plain English, for example, the Malkoff MDC AA ran for 80hrs on a 600ma alkaline AAAA (from a 9v); which is equivalent to about ~370 hrs if we were to extrapolate that to regular 2800ma alkaline AA; the weighted average output for the test was about ~0.45 lumens; so an alkaline AA 'lumen-hours' of efficiency calculates to ~166 lumen-hours (or 370hr * 0.45lms).

However 'best' is always in the eye of the beholder - while the MDC had the best moonlight efficiency in terms of lumen-hours, and the ZL had the best total runtime, neither are runtime efficient for MY unique usage due to their mode spacing. The MDCs next lowest mode is 9lms when I only need/want 3lms (nearly half my usage), and the ZL's 3x firefly ('starlight') modes are all too dim to be useful to me so I forfeit the triple-digit runtime benefits of sub-lumen modes altogether. The Peak's infinitely variable QTC can theoretically dial in the ideal minimal output for every occasion, but in practice it's behaves like a 'sponge' that expands slowly over time creeping up significantly in brightness/power consumption without my eyes ever noticing. Add to that, we all have different tastes in terms of aesthetics, size/weight, UI, tint, ... etc, etc. and the 'Best' will be different for everyone.

The above quote is from one of the old discussion threads dealing with this exact topic.

I can't easily find the original reference thread, which may have moved or disappeared during the forum reorganization.
 
Robocop, member cy had a big stash of ARC parts. You could send him a message regarding heads or other parts.
I have sent a message to Cy several weeks past however have not yet had a reply. He was my first thought when I was looking for a few empty ARC LS hosts. It seems that he is not nearly as active here as he once was. He was a heavy hitter back in the day especially with ARC parts.
 
The standard Peak drivers will accept Li-Ion voltage just fine.

Yes, Peak did make N-cell tubes, like in the Shasta, as well as 10180 / 10280 tubes (Eiger variant parts)
Archimedes I had forgotten the name for the N-Cell versions and it was the Shasta as you pointed out. After poking around it seems I have 3 of the Shasta N-Cell versions. Two in brass and one in black. If I could go back I would not have bought these N-Cell versions as I honestly never carried them. The AAA versions are much more versatile and pocket friendly.

My N-Cells one brass in the flat end pocket style and the other two with the removeable lug tail cap. All of these have the triple 5mm LED set up.
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And the AAA versions I have found. I wish I had a few single 5mm in AAA however so far every one I have found with the 5mm LED is set up as the triple emitter head. Not sure where that camo AAA body came from however it also had a triple 5mm head.
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Lost in the CPF mists of time, @reppans did extensive sublumen efficiency tests, and the Peak converters scored extremely well.

This is partly because it is a "semi-regulated" driver, ie output is not flat over the total runtime.

I often use my Peaks as "battery drainers / volt vampires / joule thieves" because they will fire up the emitter at such low voltage. I find that when a cell will not light a Peak, there is almost nothing else I can find that it will run.

Is the QTC unreliable ? Short answer, yes. Yes it is. Can always remove it though. It is a simple but admittedly somewhat crude way to create variable output. I like the concept personally, but plenty of people don't. The key is being aware of, and to a certain degree accepting of, its limitations.
Thanks, Archimedes! That’s super helpful.
Can I expect similar good performance from the circuit in the AA light?
(The El Capitan. Don’t tell Gurdy Gurds, but I actually kinda prefer that format over AAA, esp when the current prices are $50 for an AAA and $60 for an AA.)
Oh, and here’s the thread:

 
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Thanks, Archimedes! That’s super helpful.
Can I expect similar good performance from the circuit in the AA light?
(The El Capitan. Don’t tell Gurdy Gurds, but I actually kinda prefer that format over AAA, esp when the current prices are $50 for an AAA and $60 for an AA.)
....

Yes, if anything, I would expect the El Cap to be even (slightly) more efficient, when run on AA.

It is possible to run the El Cap on a AAA, and even a AAAA (as @reppans discussed in that thread) , with the appropriate spacers. Using larger capacity batteries should have less voltage sag however, contributing to a tiny theoretical efficiency bump, I would think.
 
Yes, if anything, I would expect the El Cap to be even (slightly) more efficient, when run on AA.

It is possible to run the El Cap on a AAA, and even a AAAA (as @reppans discussed in that thread) , with the appropriate spacers. Using larger capacity batteries should have less voltage sag however, contributing to a tiny theoretical efficiency bump, I would think.

That thread is a real time capsule from 2016!
It contains a lot of praise for the "L3 Illuminations" L10 and L11 models. I have never heard of those lights, and the manufacturer seems to have disappeared. Just ten years, but things change.
 
If my tracking is correct I will be in the elite Club Sapphire this Monday evening. I work 6pm to 6am and usually wake up about 5pm. The worst part for me here is that the package will be here when I wake up however I will not have time to "play" with it until I get off work. It sounds crazy I know however being at work knowing I have a package waiting for me at home drives me crazy.
 
I was always told that the single and triple 5mm heads should not be used with LiIon batteries, as they will damage the emitter.

In the vendor market place section you can find a Peak sub forum. There’s an old thread about Peak’s offerings that no longer has the photos, but it details all of the past body/led configurations. I’ve referenced it many times in the past.
 
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....My N-Cells one brass in the flat end pocket style and the other two with the removeable lug tail cap. All of these have the triple 5mm LED set up.
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I never do this. Literally everyone on CPF can vouch for this if they've been here long enough. However.... would you be willing to part with one of those PEAK N-cells in exchange for some masterful artwork featuring the faces of our deceased Presidents?
 
If my tracking is correct I will be in the elite Club Sapphire this Monday evening. I work 6pm to 6am and usually wake up about 5pm. The worst part for me here is that the package will be here when I wake up however I will not have time to "play" with it until I get off work. It sounds crazy I know however being at work knowing I have a package waiting for me at home drives me crazy.
Same. My 3rd Shift job is from 11pm - 7am. So, 7pm wake-up call for me. But my other full-time job starts almost immediately afterwards. As crazy as it sounds, I'd love to switch schedules with you.
 
Monocrom PM sent....

I actually have been on night shift by choice for 30 years now. I really like working nights for several reasons. I have no children so it is just easier to stay on nights and My wife is ok with it as well. I am the Sgt. on the shift and as long as everything is smooth I can go months and never see the higher ups. The biggest problem is life in general. Life is designed around day shift and as such night people struggle. If I want to do anything such as attend a class, doctors appt, cut the grass, or pretty much anything other than work I have to stay awake after I get off.
 
Monocrom PM sent....

I actually have been on night shift by choice for 30 years now. I really like working nights for several reasons. I have no children so it is just easier to stay on nights and My wife is ok with it as well. I am the Sgt. on the shift and as long as everything is smooth I can go months and never see the higher ups. The biggest problem is life in general. Life is designed around day shift and as such night people struggle. If I want to do anything such as attend a class, doctors appt, cut the grass, or pretty much anything other than work I have to stay awake after I get off.
Robo PM received and replied to.

Ironically, my shifts are the same way regarding Supervisors and managers. I see one maybe once every 2 years. Speak to one an average of twice every year on the phone for a few seconds. And yes, I have no clue how I manage to stay awake after work to do the weekly shopping or go to doctors appointments. (No kids either. I just refuse to bring them into this world.)
 
Keychain lights I agree with, as that is an obvious both size and weight issue. I currently got a pair of Nitecore Tip SS on my own keyrings (I don't like built-in, non-replaceable solutions, but they are the most space efficient). And that's the only place where I am looking to replace them with a AA-light (looking at the Lumintop Tool AA Ti, but price and availability is a problem).
I agree with you. I don't like built-in or proprietary battery, and I feel AAA battery's capacity is a bit unreliable. So, I have only 2 AAA flashlights; Skilhunt E3A and ReyLight Pineapple copper. I have more AA lights including Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Copper, Titanium, and 3.0 Titanium. 3.0 Ti is easily available here in Amazon Japan around for 30USD, though the availability may vary from country to country. It is very useful with good output of 900lm or 300lm with 14500 or eneloop, respectively.

The leftmost is Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Copper Illumn Special Edition with SST-20 4000K CRI 95+. Max output is 500lm, but I prefer it to 3.0 Ti of 900lm.

AA_AAA.jpg
 
Snagged a Maratac Peanut Beast XL 3.0 Flashlight kit on County Comm.

You want maximum lumens in a single-AAA form factor? There you go.
Oops! I goofed. Light arrived. Thought it was a 10440 or single-AAA sized.
Pics. on County Comm's website made it seem that way. Nope! 10180 battery.
My bad.
 

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