I'm glad this works for you. I find I can't see well at all with anything less than about 4000K. I'm also going

at the prospect of 65,000 lumens on a vehicle. Who needs street lamps when your vehicle has more than double the output of most of them in a focused beam?
In snow, you want as low CCT as possible. I LOVE my 519A 1800K flashlights for my late-night walks in the snow. I've spoken about this earlier, but the 6000K glare and reflections you get in snow is absolutely horrible. And ice is even worse.
As far as the 65K Lumen goes, I have a LOT of loss with the Amber filters. But it's worth it, because I am still outshining even most trucks. Effectively, I have 4 pods (Rigid D-XL Pro Driving) in a wide cone for ~150 meters of 180º flood lights. I drive a lot on narrow, twisty gravel roads, with lots of animals (anything from moose to mice), so I want light shining also in the ditches and well into the trees on both sides for personal comfort and safety. And with a recently upgraded LED-bar (Lazer Triple-R 24 Elite Gen 2) on the roof for a fairly wide ~500 meters of effective light throw forward.
On an open area, I'd say I get at least 20 seconds of response time from seeing any source for caution in those 180° in front of me. Doesn't sound like much, but when it's otherwise so dark you can barely see the front of your car from the driver's seat, and the factory lights gives me, say, half that time and only for forward obstacles, I'll gladly take that expense again.
But come to think of it, with regard to this topic, with so much 5000K / 6000K lighting by default, I must be practically driving around in a cancer gun!
Oh noez, what horror! My car is giving people cancer every time I drive around with auxiliaries!
Fun fact though: some of the street lamps on my commute has light sensors (others have timers) for when to turn off or on, depending on the sun.
...When I have come close to such street lamps, I am shining so much light on them, they have turned themselves off. ^^