I’ll have to take the pill out and take a close-up pic. Good to know I’m not crazy.That Convoy has the wrong emitter. Not even close to 3500k and green too.
I’ll have to take the pill out and take a close-up pic. Good to know I’m not crazy.That Convoy has the wrong emitter. Not even close to 3500k and green too.
Keep in mind the momentary switch is not very watertight (if that’s a concern). While the threads have an O-ring, there’s nothing preventing water ingress where the post slides in the body.Thank you for the very thorough reply. I appreciate it.
I was about to order the 17500 variation of the Logan.
But the O-ring showing like that, and the head not being as secure as it should be; that's a deal-breaker for me. That is just unacceptable. Especially considering that my very recently arrived Peak Logan S.S. CR123 version required a Peak tailcap switch. Along with a Prometheus BETA Ti pocket clip (not cheap) that needs to be modified to fit before it's ideal for my needs.... I'm glad I asked before buying. Once again, thank you.
Will get a couple of 17500 Keeppowers for an old Milky modded LED SureFire E2E that runs off of that cell only.
"In short, they're too long."@Monocrom Replying back to your comment on whether the 17500 Keeppowers from Illumn fit the Logan 17500. In short, yes. They do. I'll go into further detail.
Did NOT know that. Yeah, that's going to be an issue for me.Keep in mind the momentary switch is not very watertight (if that’s a concern). While the threads have an O-ring, there’s nothing preventing water ingress where the post slides in the body.
Ironically the switch I was sent for my S.S. CR123 Logan is the brass one. Despite indicating I wanted the S.S. one, instead on Peak's website. Lost all enthusiasm for that light, just due to that alone. Not worth it to me to send it back. My local post office isn't the best. Also, I need a tailcap switch on my main EDC lights. Just waiting on that Beta Ti clip. Going to finish up this little project light, and I guess toss it into the collection, instead of my EDC rotation.Also, tailswitches have varied in length depending on the production period. Specifically the brass nut that contacts the QTC disc. When the switch is replaced with a keychain post (no brass nut), it frees up more room for longer batteries as the head threads in further.
Appreciate the advice. But I don't think I'll bother getting the 17500 variation.I’d imagine asking for a shorter post from Robyn might accommodate longer cells.
When I reached out to Robyn about the switch situation she mentioned that all of the SS ones they had left she was not happy with and that they looked like crap. She is having Curt make more but doesn’t have a time-table currently. It definitely bothered me as I prefer it matching materialLatest acquisition from Peak.
Not happy that they sent me the wrong pressure switch.
The Ti clip from Prometheus was meant specifically for the diameter of the Eiger. I knew this going in and figured I’d have to do some adjusting. It was a pain but I got it dialed in pretty good.Ironically the Beta Ti clip from Prometheus arrived a little over 3 hours ago.
Needs adjusting to fit.
Thank you! Honestly, Robyn should have sent out an email to me and everyone ordering an S.S. pressure switch. Letting us know regarding the issue. Never happened. Or remove the S.S. switch as an option from the drop-down menu on Peak's website. Everyone would just assume it was out of stock. Instead, I get a brass one I never wanted. Well, that's REALLY not going to color match.When I reached out to Robyn about the switch situation she mentioned that all of the SS ones they had left she was not happy with and that they looked like crap. She is having Curt make more but doesn’t have a time-table currently. It definitely bothered me as I prefer it matching material
/color.
Great! So, I might have completely gotten it wrong because I ordered the Beta QRV2/3 Ti pocket clip. Not the one specifically made for the Peak Eiger.The Ti clip from Prometheus was meant specifically for the diameter of the Eiger. I knew this going in and figured I’d have to do some adjusting. It was a pain but I got it dialed in pretty good.
View attachment 94207
View attachment 94208
View attachment 94211
They’re the same clip.Great! So, I might have completely gotten it wrong because I ordered the Beta QRV2/3 Ti pocket clip. Not the one specifically made for the Peak Eiger.
Thanks for the heads-up about that too.... Remember when businesses just dealt in simple terms. Sometimes it seems that private sellers off of eBay are the only ones who do that nowadays. I ordered an extra long titanium spoon off of eBay a few days ago. And, an extra long titanium spoon arrived.They’re the same clip.
Got my El Capitan a little earlier today, and regret not getting it in stainless, lol. As my first Peak, it has a generally positive impression; minus a couple points for finish quality because of chipped anodizing on the body tube towards the head, but the rest of the machining is decent. The threading is smooth and tight, but I wish the Keychain threading was a more common 1/4" for hands free gooseneck/tripod mounting.
Maybe my hands are weak, but the light necessitates 2 handed operation. That is a good thing considering mode retention and QTC, no accidental twists. In regards to the potting of the head, the positive contact nub could have been centered better during the curing process, but everything functions just fine.
The CCT seems to be around 3000k, and feels like a more yellow sst-20. the hotspot it throws is quite nice, but has corona artefacting due to the nature of the TIR. The lens is nice and clean.
All in all, maybe I'm spoiled, or maybe I was expecting too much, or maybe I should've gone with the stainless option...but it feels cheap AND quality at the same time, let me explain:
The materials used are top notch, feel durable, appear to be good quality. However, the chipped finish, off centered positive nub, in addition to a strangely comforting yet concerning bacony maple syrupy smell (light body was dirty, cleaning it with moist paper towels removed a layer of grime) presented as a whimsical/irreverent treatment of otherwise high quality materials...I suppose I'll simply use it as the tool it is intended to be, but I am slightly disappointed that the light arrived in what appeared to be in used condi
Lumintop 14500 USB-C 1000mah protected li-ion are the best bet as they are basically the same size as a AA battery. El Capitans in my experience are very picky on lengths. Those protected cells will more than likely be too longI have a SS El Capitan on the way and I'm curious as to what protected 14500 Li-ion cells I can use. Obviously, the protected cells are slightly longer than the standard AA so just want to know what works. I have attached some screenshots below of the cells I'm curious about and and why and would love some input on them and/or my assertions about each.
View attachment 92501
Specifications:
Nominal Capacity: 1000 mAh
Nominal Voltage: 3.7V
Discharge End Voltage: 2.5V
Max. Continuous Discharging Current: 4A
Dimensions:
52.00mm (L) x 14.34 mm (D)
NOTE: I put this one first because I believe I do recall a user on here possibly using this same cell. Can someone confirm these work in an El Capitan and whether or not you experienced and issues?
View attachment 92502
Specifications:
Minimum Capacity: 1450 mAh
Typical Capacity: 1500mAh
Nominal Voltage: 3.6V
Discharge End Voltage: 2.5V
Max. Continuous Discharging Current: 2A
Max Pulse Continuous Current: 5A
Dimensions:
52.10mm (L) x 14.4 mm(D) (+/- 0.2mm)
NOTE: I included this cell in the mix for the obvious reason of extended runtime. Just not sure of the fit as it appears .10mm longer and .06mm thicker than the previous cell listed.
View attachment 92503
Specifications:
Nominal Capacity: 1300mAh
Minimum Capacity: 1250mAh
Nominal Voltage: 3.6V
Standard Continuous Charging Current: 0.4-0.5A (by USB)
Maximum Continuous Discharging Current: 2A
Dimensions:
50.2 mm (L) x 14.3 mm (D)(±0.2mm)
Weight: 20.5g
NOTE: I included this cell at it is closest to AA dimensions and has the added convenience of USB-C built-in charging when on the go and is a nice balance between the runtime of the previous two options.
Lastly, I need help understanding QTC in conjunction with Max. Continuous Discharging Current (MCDC) and the affect on the LED. Is there a minimum or maximum MCDC value I should be taking note of when shopping for cells for my Peak Eiger or El Capitan? Should I limit running it at max lumens if I'm running a li-ion (running a Vapcell 10440 in my Eiger). My understanding is that it is basically running direct drive hence the importance of protected cells, I just wonder about putting in a freshly charged Li-ion sitting at 4.2v in my SS Eiger/Capitan and having the increased output negatively affect the LED. Hope this makes sense!
Thank you in advance!
I've put off ordering some...maybe time to bite the bullet lolLumintop 14500 USB-C 1000mah protected li-ion are the best bet as they are basically the same size as a AA battery. El Capitans in my experience are very picky on lengths. Those protected cells will more than likely be too long
I actually picked up a pair of Keeppower USB-C Li-ions which are also the same length as AA battery.. I’ve found they’re a little finicky versus the longer, Keeppower 14500 without the USB-C.Lumintop 14500 USB-C 1000mah protected li-ion are the best bet as they are basically the same size as a AA battery. El Capitans in my experience are very picky on lengths. Those protected cells will more than likely be too long
Do it! You’ll like the extra outputI've put off ordering some...maybe time to bite the bullet lol
Why not both?Taking into account which topic this is, and that I own 3 or 4 Peak lights, myself.... are we looking at Peak today. Or with nostalgia from around 20 years ago? I think that might be the issue.