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Yep, the TN4A looks like a very well-rounded light. I don't need one myself, but I'm often tempted to buy one anyways because it would do a lot of the same tasks as my lesser lights better, and it's an easy light to recommend to somebody who wants a better quality light than what you find in most stores, but can run off AA's.

It serves a different role than what led me consider the D4, although had the TN4A been available with a high CRI-emitter, I might have already bought one and wouldn't even have started the searching that led me to consider the D4.

The idea still sticks in the back of my mind to buy a TN4A anyways and learn how to swap a high-CRI XP-L2 into it.

Actually, seeing how hard the D4 over-drives the N219C, that might even be an option for the TN4A. From a search, djozz over at BLF actually torture tested an N219C to a much higher power level than the TN4A could possibly dump into a single emitter, yet he wasn't able to kill it, so there's additional evidence it should work.
 
The question is... do we need high cri...
Even osram/philips sell a huge majority of 80-90 cri leds.
90+ are niche... important for photographers only maybe...
 
totobel said:
The question is... do we need high cri...
Even osram/philips sell a huge majority of 80-90 cri leds.
90+ are niche... important for photographers only maybe...
Click to expand...

If you’ve had a chance to try out high CRI in real life you would know that high CRI matters more than a few extra lumens in helping out to see details. (That is if you have full color vision of course.) Everything also looks nicer with high CRI.
So YES, we need high CRI.
 
RollerBoySE said:
If you’ve had a chance to try out high CRI in real life you would know that high CRI matters more than a few extra lumens in helping out to see details. (That is if you have full color vision of course.) Everything also looks nicer with high CRI.
So YES, we need high CRI.
Click to expand...
So true! High CRI is all part of the resolution we see.
 
No, we don't really need high-CRI in most circumstances, but I find the improvement in appearance nice enough that if the option is available, I'll choose it almost every time.

Since you're more interested in better throw and longer sustained peak output, the XP-L HI definitely sounds like the better choice for your priorities.
 
Couple of questions. I just ordered the D4 with the Nichia 219CT 90CRI, 5000K from Hank. I also ordered the 18350 tube because I have some extra 18350 batteries.

1) What 18650 cells do you recommend for this light? Hank's website says high drain but I'm looking for the exact brand/model, etc.
2) What kind of performance do you get when you install the short tube and run with a 18350? Do you still get maximum output but a much shorter run time?

Thanks in advance.

Jordan
 
MAD777 said:
Sony US18650VTC5A
Click to expand...

That is the one that gives the highest output.
If you want a tad longer runtime (and can accept slightly lower output): VTC6.

Aspire is the best 18350, but unfortunately (not only runtime) output drops a bit.
 
I second that suggestions, but would also add Sanyo NCR18650GA for the least powerful, but longest running choice.
Don't worry, it will still be bright with GA. :)
Personally, I EDC it with Aspire 18350. Before I got these batteries, I used VTC5A as I don't care about runtime in EDC, it's high enough anyway.
 
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JordanK said:
Couple of questions. I just ordered the D4 with the Nichia 219CT 90CRI, 5000K from Hank. I also ordered the 18350 tube because I have some extra 18350 batteries.

1) What 18650 cells do you recommend for this light? Hank's website says high drain but I'm looking for the exact brand/model, etc.
2) What kind of performance do you get when you install the short tube and run with a 18350? Do you still get maximum output but a much shorter run time?

Thanks in advance.

Jordan
Click to expand...

Regarding number 2, maukka measured the following comparison between the Aspire 18350 cells and the Sony VTC6. I think he said he has the original 80 CRI Nichia 219C version.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1166803#comment-1166803

Interestingly, apparently because of the slightly lower initial power (and therefore heat) and quirks with how the thermal control tries to deal with the lag time before the temperature sensor responds to the heat, the Aspires actually have the advantage from about 15 seconds after turn on until over 1 minute.

From what Toykeeper said, it sounds like the Efest 18350 cells also do pretty well.

He also compared the performance of 4 different 18650 cells here:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1166865#comment-1166865
 
4 of these is cheaper and brighter than the Olight x7R.
That's nuts, size and price make this a ridiculous light. I want 2 but I'll get 1 and wait for other companies to get higher closer performance. I didn't believe this was real, thought for sure lumen count was inflated.
 
RollerBoySE said:
If you’ve had a chance to try out high CRI in real life you would know that high CRI matters more than a few extra lumens in helping out to see details. (That is if you have full color vision of course.) Everything also looks nicer with high CRI.
So YES, we need high CRI.
Click to expand...
Yes you are right, it would be nice on your EDC
But thd D4 is not that in my eyes, there are better build flashlights for that (nitecore tm03 cri anyone ?)
The D4 is good at one thing : doing what other can't do : >3k lumens in a compact form... so basically the wow effect. Isnt it the reason we are all here ?
 
totobel said:
Yes you are right, it would be nice on your EDC
But thd D4 is not that in my eyes, there are better build flashlights for that (nitecore tm03 cri anyone ?)
The D4 is good at one thing : doing what other can't do : >3k lumens in a compact form... so basically the wow effect. Isnt it the reason we are all here ?
Click to expand...

I have no doubt that the TM03 is a nice light, but it’s too bulky (compared to the D4) and expensive (more than 3 times as expensive as the D4) for my taste in EDC.

Also you’re right, beeing a flashaholic, I “need” the wow factor of the D4.

Furthermore, once bitten by the high CRI bug, you never ever buy a low CRI light again.
 
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The TM03 is definitely a lot bigger and heavier than I'm interested in EDC carrying.

My go to light when I want to have one along is AA-powered and less than half the diameter. It tops out at 120 lumens, and that's generally fine.

I probably won't typically carry the D4, but I expect to use it for a lot of close to mid-range tasks, especially where I want illumination levels rivaling normal room lighting.

The insane output is actually of very little interest to me. If an updated firmware with programmable max mode is released, I'll probably play with turbo mode a few times for fun, then set the max at 1000-1500 lumens and leave it there.
 
Used D4 all yesterday as my work light (yes had to clean it up at the end of the day from dust,oil and grease!). It works very good for my uses,lots of flood with some decent enough punch. The ramping UI is great, so easy and quick enough in either direction when needed to tweak output . I do find one thing difficult, restraining from a double tap for 100%........so damn addictive. :whistle:
 
I couldn't agree with you more ven. That double tap gets my blood boiling haha. I just purchased my second D4 flashlight with Nichia 219c 90+ CRI. This is my first Nichia purchase. I am excited for this to come in!
 
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Haha ven, I imagine I'll have trouble not double tapping the switch all the time for fun as well. Mine is arriving today!

I do have to say that for me high CRI isn't as important as tint. I don't do much that requires distinguishing precise colors in the dark so the majority of the time I just like a warm or neutral tint for whatever I'm working on. I have one high CRI light so that's enough for me to use when I need it, but the majority of the time I prefer other lights with different UIs. Although maybe after I get the D4vn I'll have to get one in high CRI as well lol.
 
There is the 90cri 219c available now blah and also two new colours, cyan(looks blue-ish) and green(different to the D1 green). Both new colours are textured, both look very cool.

The 4000k xp-g2 is nice for evening use being a little on the warm side, the 5000k 219c works well in day/evening or artificial light for me. The D4vn is maybe 5000-5500k(hard to tell), lots of punch and easier to use for spotting stuff or aiming at things at a little distance.

If you like little throwers blah, the D1/D1vn is certainly worth of a look...............another awesome light by hank:D
 
MAD777 said:
My D4vn XPG2 PDT is 4500K tops. There's always variations due to bin lottery.
Click to expand...

Sounds super nice MAD:D

Its hard for me to put a K on it, colours look mainly great..................depends on ambient light. Outside all is very good, in work under horrid cool lighting it can play hell with "tints"
 
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