Emisar D4
- Thread starter TCY
- Start date
Well I’m glad you like the light boo
I do too and I think the Emisar D4 is in a niche market all itself. Has anyone done runtime tests of this light before it hits FET drive? I’m aware it ramps and that there is not defined preset modes. Thanks for everyone’s input.
I do too and I think the Emisar D4 is in a niche market all itself. Has anyone done runtime tests of this light before it hits FET drive? I’m aware it ramps and that there is not defined preset modes. Thanks for everyone’s input.Excuse my ignorance but, I have two questions about the Emisar lights. First, if I decided to order another light and preferred the cool or bright light, which should I choose?.
The one I own now has a yellow/orange tint to it. I prefer cool white.
The other question is, why are some priced $18. more than the others?.
I own about five LED flash lights but, my knowledge is limited.
Thanks boo
The one I own now has a yellow/orange tint to it. I prefer cool white.
The other question is, why are some priced $18. more than the others?.
I own about five LED flash lights but, my knowledge is limited.
Thanks boo
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Cobraman502
Enlightened
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- Feb 10, 2015
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1. Nichia 219C 5000K 90+ CRI - Neutral White
2. Cree XP-G2 S4 2B ~ 5700K - Cool White
3. Cree XP-G2 S4 3D ~5000K - Neutral White
3. Cree XP-G2 S4 5D ~4000K - Neutral / Warm White
4. Cree XP-L HI 1A ~6500K - Cool White
5. Cree XP-L HI 3A ~5000K - Neutral White
6. Cree XP-L HI 5D ~4000K - Neutral White
I bought the xpl hi 3a in neural white.
I really like the clean beam of the 219c 5000k, yes the hottest of the choices but no deal killer for me. If i need 3800lm for more than 15s i will use a larger light. Its nice to have for that little blast, but once the WOW bit has been done, i am happy with 100-200lm for general use. So personally, colour temp and CRI comes before running for a few seconds longer at max(everyone has different preferences).
The cool white boo looks quite nice(for a cool white, i am not really a cool white guy and prefer a more neutral temp). So i would look at the 5000k HI and 6500k HI, also would not rule out the 219c 5000k either.
4000k(presume you have this with you saying yellow/orange) is towards the warm side, 5000k is to my eyes still cool, but not too cool/blue. 6500k for my eyes is too cold, can wash out some colours which in some lights not a problem, but floody close up type i like 4000-5000k more(subjective and just my taste).
The HI are more expensive due to the HI emitters costing a few $ more each.............pretty much as simple as that iirc.
I like the 4000k xp-g2 at night, the little warmth is very easy on my tired eyes! If my eyes have been "contaminated" with a cooler light, it can make my brain think its warmer than it is. I think its worth while with certain colour temps, to spend some time just with that specific light and get use to the temp.
The cool white boo looks quite nice(for a cool white, i am not really a cool white guy and prefer a more neutral temp). So i would look at the 5000k HI and 6500k HI, also would not rule out the 219c 5000k either.
4000k(presume you have this with you saying yellow/orange) is towards the warm side, 5000k is to my eyes still cool, but not too cool/blue. 6500k for my eyes is too cold, can wash out some colours which in some lights not a problem, but floody close up type i like 4000-5000k more(subjective and just my taste).
The HI are more expensive due to the HI emitters costing a few $ more each.............pretty much as simple as that iirc.
I like the 4000k xp-g2 at night, the little warmth is very easy on my tired eyes! If my eyes have been "contaminated" with a cooler light, it can make my brain think its warmer than it is. I think its worth while with certain colour temps, to spend some time just with that specific light and get use to the temp.
Just received the D4 (and D1) mostly just to check out the UI ... and because @ven has been raving about it for a while now[emoji317]
Chose the XP-L HI 5D ~4000K and, wow, what a nice tint (!)
Very very good user interface, extremely intuitive. I do wish, perhaps unsurprisingly, it had a (much) lower low[emoji14]
They got the ramping speed so right and so smooth.
I'm sure it has been discussed, but what is indicated by the mid-ramp blink ? Current ? Output ? Switch over to FET ?
Chose the XP-L HI 5D ~4000K and, wow, what a nice tint (!)
Very very good user interface, extremely intuitive. I do wish, perhaps unsurprisingly, it had a (much) lower low[emoji14]
They got the ramping speed so right and so smooth.
I'm sure it has been discussed, but what is indicated by the mid-ramp blink ? Current ? Output ? Switch over to FET ?
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Boo, if you have not tried a D1 out yet, would look at one of those to complement your D4. Of course the same UI(if you like it win win), xpl HI in 4000/5000 and 6500k flavours. I find it a pretty useful beam for a thrower, decent usable spill and a nice moderate throw beam. Just a thought...............
Was the D1 available in the same emitters as the D4 ?
When I purchased, the warmest option for the D1 was XP-L HI V2 3A (a frosty white tint, and too cool for my preference)
When I purchased, the warmest option for the D1 was XP-L HI V2 3A (a frosty white tint, and too cool for my preference)
Kind of , the D1 has the single xpl HI 4000k(now available on the D4), 5000k and 6500k. As i am sure your aware, the 4000k xpl HI is super nice!
I have the 5000k D1 as the options were only the said and 6500k. Since then Hank has added 4000k to the options. I also have the D1vn which is the sst40 6500k, very cool(more a pure white), but an awesome high output beam. I am sure it just pips the xpl HI in throw, but bumps the lumens from around 1300 to 2300.................very noticable in the larger hot spot and brighter spill. Would be awesome for a 4000 and 5000k sst40..............:D
It blinks in 3 spots. One is turn on to let you know it is at the top of the regulated output. If you ramp up it will blink again when it gets to full FET output and if you ramp down you will go past full regulated and get a blink(same blink point as before) and ramp down more you will get another blink to let you know it is at minimum. You can see the blink points in the UI flowchart. Top, middle and bottom
What drive current at the mid-ramp blink ?
Thanks static
+1
What i do find useful archimedes, is the lock out, lock in(so undo tail cap a couple of mm, then lock cap up again, 2 blinks ) , the 350ma level(roughly equivalent to 140lm + or - ) is a good do it all level. In work, it is a nice level that is regulated, no heat issue, just enough light to be usable in pretty much most applications(for me as i know many like super low lows). At home i find a nice level also, granted its not ideal for a middle of the night level.............too bright. But that is no problem either, just press hold to get to min level which can be memorised prior to any potential middle of the night requirements.
Glad your enjoying the light, IMO it has to be a contender(if there was one) for the flashlight of 2017! Bang for buck, UI, form and flexibility..............this light has it all. May not be the best at everything, but it is certainly good at most:cool:
What i do find useful archimedes, is the lock out, lock in(so undo tail cap a couple of mm, then lock cap up again, 2 blinks ) , the 350ma level(roughly equivalent to 140lm + or - ) is a good do it all level. In work, it is a nice level that is regulated, no heat issue, just enough light to be usable in pretty much most applications(for me as i know many like super low lows). At home i find a nice level also, granted its not ideal for a middle of the night level.............too bright. But that is no problem either, just press hold to get to min level which can be memorised prior to any potential middle of the night requirements.
Glad your enjoying the light, IMO it has to be a contender(if there was one) for the flashlight of 2017! Bang for buck, UI, form and flexibility..............this light has it all. May not be the best at everything, but it is certainly good at most:cool:
Speaking of using the "tail cap lockout" to set output to 350mA, I don't end up using the tail cap at all, but loosen and tighten at the head, one handed.
It's easy and the light stays in ready to use position.
Also I've got some bicycle inner tube over the tail cap to make it feasible to grip with my teeth.
It's easy and the light stays in ready to use position.
Also I've got some bicycle inner tube over the tail cap to make it feasible to grip with my teeth.
noboneshotdog
Flashlight Enthusiast
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- May 28, 2012
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- 1,354
Cobraman502
Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2015
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- 367
Bahahahaha, that’s what I was trying to visualize.
lol,
I also put two layers of inner tube on the bezel end to minimize damage from drops.
I'm hoping Int'nl Outdoors will come out with an over moulded "indestructible" version, there's plenty of space on the D1 and D4 for shock absorbers and heat dissipation both.
I also put two layers of inner tube on the bezel end to minimize damage from drops.
I'm hoping Int'nl Outdoors will come out with an over moulded "indestructible" version, there's plenty of space on the D1 and D4 for shock absorbers and heat dissipation both.
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Johnno
Newly Enlightened
I've had my D4 for a good 3 weeks now. It along with the BLF Q8 and a DS1 I picked up are all tied in my book as "best new flashlights of 2017". The D4, especially with the optional 18350 battery tube, is quite impressive - will easily put a grin on the face of even the most jaded flashoholic here when it's double clicked into turbo mode outside at night. :-) It pretty much redefines the "pocket rocket" genre of flashlights. Also love the UI, especially the ramping capability which is shared by all three. I picked up the DS1 as well since I was so impressed with the D4. Between the D4's flood, the DS1's throw and the Q8's workhorse nature, if you only owned these three lights, you'd have pretty much have all of your practical needs covered. Quite impressed with these newcomers.
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