HDS Systems #23

[Schokokeks]

Those NTGs are nice. I got the 4200k one

Yeah, I like the NTG emitters. I got all three CCTs in some KC1 lights. They're neat.

But then you sold me that SC54c N, so I never got an AA light from him with any of those.

To be fair, I can't decide between the 2700K and the 4200K. They're both beautiful.

 

[muichimon]

I've been using the BeCu I acquired last year for six months now. It's my second HDS special metal light. Like brass, this copper also tarnishes easily, and it's fun to watch it develop a beautiful patina over time. The knurling grooves, the inside of the bezel, the area around the engravings, and the boundary between the rotary cap and the battery compartment are particularly prone to aging.

This BeCu is an SDR50, so it has a large spot and is bright at 300 lumens. The left is an NB45, and the right is an SDR50. I felt that the 90 CRI color rendering and 300 lumens brightness resulted in a well-balanced finish.

I'm looking forward to seeing how these HDS special metal lights will change over time in my country, where it rains relatively often and humidity is high.

As a side note, the material of Japanese coins is brass for the 5 yen coin and copper for the 10 yen coin.

 

[ilikeguns40]

Man that is nice. I’d love to own a copper rotary and even a titanium model. Wish they were still available

 

[kaichu dento]

...the material of Japanese coins is brass for the 5 yen coin and copper for the 10 yen coin.

I can't take that picture because I don't have those two lights but it'd be nice to see an updated picture with the older 五円 coin and its nicer script. Thanks for all the pictures of these two.

 

[WarriorOfLight]

@muichimon
Your two Rotaries looks great! I guess you aged your rotaries with black paint that you rubbed into the grooves!? I like how both lights looks like!

And regarding the patina that may come. I have all special metal rotaries and I use them here and there but my rotaries are looking still like they are new.


The picture above is years old, but my lights are today looks like you see on the picture.

 

[muichimon]

Man that is nice. I’d love to own a copper rotary and even a titanium model. Wish they were still available

Thank you. Titanium rotary engines are very popular, so they're likely to be extremely expensive. I'd love to get my hands on one if I ever get the chance.

I can't take that picture because I don't have those two lights but it'd be nice to see an updated picture with the older 五円 coin and its nicer script. Thanks for all the pictures of these two.

Thank you for enjoying my images. You were able to recognize that 5 yen is written as 五円 in Japanese kanji. And now that I think about it, your name is also the Japanese reading of "flashlight," isn't it?

@muichimon
Your two Rotaries looks great! I guess you aged your rotaries with black paint that you rubbed into the grooves!? I like how both lights looks like!

And regarding the patina that may come. I have all special metal rotaries and I use them here and there but my rotaries are looking still like they are new.


The picture above is years old, but my lights are today looks like you see on the picture.

Thank you. It's really amazing that you have all the special metal light rotary dials, because I spent all my iPhone and iPad upgrade funds on buying these brass and copper ones.

The black substance in the knurled grooves is patina. If you wipe along the grooves with a soft cloth, the patina will peel off and the cloth will turn green.

I also just use mine every day without doing anything special.

 

[WarriorOfLight]

Thank you. It's really amazing that you have all the special metal light rotary dials, because I spent all my iPhone and iPad upgrade funds on buying these brass and copper ones.

Maybe the reason I have all special metal Rotaries is I never had any apple products Therefore I have multiple special metal Rotaries of each type


(That is a picture of my Stainless Steel Rotaries, it is not a Photoshop picture, you count right 6 rotaries )

The black substance in the knurled grooves is patina. If you wipe along the grooves with a soft cloth, the patina will peel off and the cloth will turn green.

Wow your two rotaries turned out really great. Mine looks like new, even if I use them from time to time. Maybe your climate conditions are perfect to "age" BeCu and Brass?
Maybe I need to put them somewhere in outside on a secret place and wait some time....?

 

[Schokokeks]

Maybe the reason I have all special metal Rotaries is I never had any apple products Therefore I have multiple special metal Rotaries of each type


(That is a picture of my Stainless Steel Rotaries, it is not a Photoshop picture, you count right 6 rotaries )


Wow your two rotaries turned out really great. Mine looks like new, even if I use them from time to time. Maybe your climate conditions are perfect to "age" BeCu and Brass?
Maybe I need to put them somewhere in outside on a secret place and wait some time....?

I'm pretty sure, frequent hand handling speeds up patinas on copper and brass because our hands have a perfect blend of salty water, sulfites, and oil. The sweat (salty and containing sulfites) rubs onto it with the oil from the skin, which keeps it against the surface. Then, as you use it, and that oil rubs around, it re-exposes the surface to oxygen, allowing the patina to develop.

Rainwater also tends to have a decent mix, too (especially in industrial areas, haha), but MUCH LESS today due to catalytic converters on automobiles (which remove most of the SOx and NOx from the exhaust).

 

[dc38]

I'm pretty sure, frequent hand handling speeds up patinas on copper and brass because our hands have a perfect blend of salty water, sulfites, and oil. The sweat (salty and containing sulfites) rubs onto it with the oil from the skin, which keeps it against the surface. Then, as you use it, and that oil rubs around, it re-exposes the surface to oxygen, allowing the patina to develop.

Rainwater also tends to have a decent mix, too (especially in industrial areas, haha), but MUCH LESS today due to catalytic converters on automobiles (which remove most of the SOx and NOx from the exhaust).

I would like to see what MAO (Micro Arc Oxidation) does to copper.

**I would also like to see what the introduction of a different alloying metal on that copper does...i.e. brass plating on copper vs bronze plating. Would it be galvanically corrossive, or would it form a good protective layer, and would zinc or tin plating on solid copper be more effective than forming a solid body of either brass or bronze?

 

[kaichu dento]

You were able to recognize that 5 yen is written as 五円 in Japanese kanji. And now that I think about it, your name is also the Japanese reading of "flashlight," isn't it?

I've got 光陰矢の如し in my signature, which I've also written as コイン矢の如し、since it especially seemed appropriate. LoL

 

[muichimon]

Maybe the reason I have all special metal Rotaries is I never had any apple products Therefore I have multiple special metal Rotaries of each type


(That is a picture of my Stainless Steel Rotaries, it is not a Photoshop picture, you count right 6 rotaries )


Wow your two rotaries turned out really great. Mine looks like new, even if I use them from time to time. Maybe your climate conditions are perfect to "age" BeCu and Brass?
Maybe I need to put them somewhere in outside on a secret place and wait some time....?

That's an amazing photo. Collecting so many stainless steel rotary is incredible.


To accelerate the aging process, frequent handling is probably the best approach. Leaving it outside exposed to rain or burying it in the soil in a yard would likely accelerate decay, but I don't have the courage to do that.

I'm pretty sure, frequent hand handling speeds up patinas on copper and brass because our hands have a perfect blend of salty water, sulfites, and oil. The sweat (salty and containing sulfites) rubs onto it with the oil from the skin, which keeps it against the surface. Then, as you use it, and that oil rubs around, it re-exposes the surface to oxygen, allowing the patina to develop.

Rainwater also tends to have a decent mix, too (especially in industrial areas, haha), but MUCH LESS today due to catalytic converters on automobiles (which remove most of the SOx and NOx from the exhaust).

So that's what it does. I do sweat easily, that's for sure. And I often find myself playing around with a flashlight for no reason.

I've got 光陰矢の如し in my signature, which I've also written as コイン矢の如し、since it especially seemed appropriate. LoL

You know some difficult proverbs. I looked them up to see what they meant. I see, they're a play on words with "kouin" and "koin."

 

[Schokokeks]

So that's what it does. I do sweat easily, that's for sure. And I often find myself playing around with a flashlight for no reason.

I often find myself twirling my Peak Eiger, haha. I think I like "pen size" AAA lights specifically for the "twirl factor" haha.

 

[JP031716]

I often find myself twirling my Peak Eiger, haha. I think I like "pen size" AAA lights specifically for the "twirl factor" haha.

I’d like to think that the SS Eiger has the optimum weight for “twirling” like it was made for it. I’ve caught myself flipping and catching it as well as it produces a nice “thud” when it lands in your hand. Same can be said for an HDS Rotary of course which speaking of, I’m still between NB30 and NB35 and SS or Black bezel.. I had purged my HDS inventory last year and have since been missing the wonderful lows it provided. While the Peak Eiger has lows, I’ve been blinding myself in the early hours of the morning trying to dial in a moonlight with the QTC.. So I basically trying to decide which tint (NB30/35) will provide the ideal moonlight.

 

[tex.proud]

I’d like to think that the SS Eiger has the optimum weight for “twirling” like it was made for it. I’ve caught myself flipping and catching it as well as it produces a nice “thud” when it lands in your hand. Same can be said for an HDS Rotary of course which speaking of, I’m still between NB30 and NB35 and SS or Black bezel.. I had purged my HDS inventory last year and have since been missing the wonderful lows it provided. While the Peak Eiger has lows, I’ve been blinding myself in the early hours of the morning trying to dial in a moonlight with the QTC.. So I basically trying to decide which tint (NB30/35) will provide the ideal moonlight.

I love the NB30 for middle of the night and mornings. Have it Rotary on a 2xAA body. The longer body is easy to find in the dark, turn the dial down, and know exactly what low warm goodness is coming.

Carry On!

 

[jon_slider]

I’m still between NB30 and NB35

The NB27 is also very nice for lowlight use:

SS or Black bezel

I prefer the Silver bezel. It gives a strong visual cue of which end of the light is heads or tails, and imo has a Classic HDS look.

 

[tech25]

Now that two people chimed in with two different tints, I’m going to do the third- the 519a in 3500 is beautiful!

(Now you have to get all the tints!)

 

[nbp]

I've got 光陰矢の如し in my signature, which I've also written as コイン矢の如し、since it especially seemed appropriate. LoL

Hey bro! I feel like it has been forever! I hope you are doing well. I love seeing old “faces” popping up to discuss our old favorites.

 

[kaichu dento]

You know some difficult proverbs. I looked them up to see what they meant. I see, they're a play on words with "kouin" and "koin."

Yeah, the passage of time, like an arrow through the light and the shadows, and of course in CPF-land, the coin disappears as quickly as the arrow flies!

 

[kaichu dento]

...basically trying to decide which tint (NB30/35) will provide the ideal moonlight.

The original titanium CR2 Titans had a tint that exactly matched the moonlight, making it once again a top favorite of mine for a very long time.

 

[kaichu dento]

Hey bro! I feel like it has been forever! I hope you are doing well. I love seeing old “faces” popping up to discuss our old favorites.

We talked about flashlights and everything else for a couple hours on the phone one time. Seeing your avatar always makes me want some M&M's and Skittles.