pd35

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I recently got a PD35 and like it a lot so far. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it couldn't tail stand.

I know a few people have posted solutions for this. I thought I'd share what I did to address the problem. Forgive me if this idea has already been discussed; I didn't read through this entire thread.

Basically, I took some scrap lexan (0.03" thick) that I had left over from my other hobby (RC cars) and made some washers/spacers to put over the switch cover so that it and the switch assembly are recessed further into the tailcap.

First, I disassembled the tailcap.

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After that, I took the lexan and cut out 2 washers/spacers. I used a reamer to get the correct inner diameter and some scissors to cut around the outside (which is why it looks so rough :whistle:)
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Next, I put the washers over the switch cover.
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Finally, I reassembled the tail cap. You'll notice that the retaining ring sits slightly higher now due to the lexan spacers, but the tailcap still fully screws onto the body.
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Here's the finished product....a PD35 that can tail stand without having to add any external pieces.

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Of course, since the switch and switch cover are now recessed a little more inside the tailcap, activating the light is just slightly more difficult. For me, it isn't an issue. But if you decide to try this modification, keep that in mind.
 
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Wouldn't that make the light less water proff? Shouldn't you have just used a washer?


On another note great being creative!!
 
bmwproboi05 said:
Wouldn't that make the light less water proff? Shouldn't you have just used a washer?


On another note great being creative!!
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It might affect how water proof it is. I rinsed the light in the sink and then disassembled the tailcap; I didn't find any water inside. But I haven't done a full dunk test.

I just used what I had on hand, but you are right that a rubber washer would probably work (1/16" thick I think). The next time I go to the hardware store, I'll see if I can find one that works.
 
Hello all.

I lost my first PD-35 and just purchased a 2nd. I am into sub-ohm vaping so I have a little battery knowledge and understanding of ohm law, but not when it comes to flash lights and protected cells.

there are so many mixed reviews when it comes to the best battery for the PD-35. If the PD35 automatically step down to lowest mode when the voltage dropped to ~3.19V isnt is over kill to buy a high end Panasonic NCR18650B, Sony VTC5, or even an AW 3400 protected?

Does any one know what the best battery would be if you are dealing with a 3.19 cut off? Performance and longevity is still my main concern so if if that means I have to buy the best then I will.

And just to confirm so i don't have a time bomb in my hand this light has thermal protection ect.. so if you do use an LI-ION unprotected cell you are protected correct?

Thanks to all who read and post.

Aruga
 
aruga said:
And just to confirm so i don't have a time bomb in my hand this light has thermal protection ect.. so if you do use an LI-ION unprotected cell you are protected correct?
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Unless a flashlight makes explicit that it has been designed for use with unprotected cells, I wouldn't use them. The Fenix page for the PD35 makes no such mention, so use unprotected cells at your own risk.

While I stand by my suggestion, it's worth noting that if the light refuses to enter "high" mode, odds are the battery voltage has sagged to the point that you should consider swapping your li-ion cells, protected or otherwise.
 
idleprocess said:
Unless a flashlight makes explicit that it has been designed for use with unprotected cells, I wouldn't use them. The Fenix page for the PD35 makes no such mention, so use unprotected cells at your own risk.

While I stand by my suggestion, it's worth noting that if the light refuses to enter "high" mode, odds are the battery voltage has sagged to the point that you should consider swapping your li-ion cells, protected or otherwise.
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Thanks for the response Idle....

so it sounds lie the AW 3400 mah protected would be the way to go with little to no variance when compared to other manufacturers comparable batteries in that range. Would the vets here agree with that? I am unfamiliar with protected cells.
I am going to buy a bunch and just want to be sure I get the best for this pd 35. I go 4 wheeling/camping for multiple days so this will be my go to light.

thanks again to all who read and post
 
aruga said:
Thanks for the response Idle....

so it sounds lie the AW 3400 mah protected would be the way to go with little to no variance when compared to other manufacturers comparable batteries in that range. Would the vets here agree with that? I am unfamiliar with protected cells.
I am going to buy a bunch and just want to be sure I get the best for this pd 35. I go 4 wheeling/camping for multiple days so this will be my go to light.

thanks again to all who read and post
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I've been using those batteries with my pd35 since I preordered it in 2012. They work perfectly still even after a number of recharges.
 
Can someone please take a picture of inside of the battery tube please? (without the battery inside) My light has a small gap on one side and it seems to be causing the batteries to messed up.
 
Thanks. Is that small "gap" on the bottom of the tube normal? Mine is the same way. And the edge of my 18650 (Fenix ARB-L2S) is tearing. I'm thinking its because its catching the edge or "gap" and causing it to tear a little with movement.
 
mmjsport said:
Thanks. Is that small "gap" on the bottom of the tube normal? Mine is the same way. And the edge of my 18650 (Fenix ARB-L2S) is tearing. I'm thinking its because its catching the edge or "gap" and causing it to tear a little with movement.
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I don't really have a 'gap'. Tube sits against the circuit-board.

y3yzubug.jpg


I do have a fine line inside the tube, not visible on photo, where the knurling ends towards the tailcap. Right on the spot where the pocketclip goes.
 
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About pd35, I don't know if it's a problem of the model I own, a question of perception of my eyes or a "builtin issue " but when I switch from the high to turbo I can't see more difference in light output, however a gap of 400 lumens should be visible even to naked eyes. Anyone the same?
 
Loed7984 said:
About pd35, I don't know if it's a problem of the model I own, a question of perception of my eyes or a "builtin issue " but when I switch from the high to turbo I can't see more difference in light output, however a gap of 400 lumens should be visible even to naked eyes. Anyone the same?
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Battery fully charged?
 
That sounds like a defective light. The difference between high and turbo is considerable.
 
I bought my early PD-35 from a local vendor 'sale priced' (~$69!) a year ago. It followed my intro to the 18650 battery a month earlier via an Olight M22 'kit' purchase. Why the diatribe? I am a Surfire and CR-123 lover. My PD35, and the M21, M22, & TT-4 for that matter, run fine on el-cheapo TangsFire 3,600 mA-Hr protected cells - charged on an i2. Holding my S-F Fury up next to the PD35, imagine the Fury could use an 18650, and I prefer the PD35 for it's utility. Thinking of the new S-F P1R Peacemaker - their first 18650-capable light - and I could have a trio of PD35's for the S-F's cost. The PD35 is a deal... and my el-cheapo batteries last longer than the Fenix 2,600 mA-Hr cells. The PD35 is a great value.
 
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