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P60 with TIR & 18500 in L2M...EASY

hi all! ...Yesterday I installed a Cree TIR optic in a P60 module....(maybe it was from DX or KD and it is the narrow beam kind)

igp4430.jpg


The optic clips on the XR-E tight enough....

igp4448.jpg


I had to clip the optic "feet" at half width to clear the solder pads of the boards (see the arrow)

igp4442m.jpg


A BIG advantage is that there it is shorter than a standard drop-in...Using a 17500/18500 in a L2M 2009 body is comfy...No stressing on the batt..

So there is more room for mods like the Zero Body L2, or the 3AA in a 4 cell body

The NEXT Advantage is that there is an expected increase in total output...

_________ Lux @ Box
Reflector_____ 397
Optics_______ 542

Board was a DX3256 3.6-9V 750-800mA, running on the AW 17500 pictured. In my box the 200 lumens OTF application score 480+
and this time the module had decreased performance (as expected) due to the 1 x Li-Ion cell....After lunch I will maesure some more batt combinations...

...and finding an MC-E optic or putting a hard driven XPG there? Priceless

enjoy, Kostas
 
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Wow, good info kosPap.

I would be slightly concerned with the reduced heatsinking ability of that mod though. But it would be a small concern.

Any way to modify the reflector to keep it on there, and use the optic as well?

Either way, this is a good mod. I'll just have to pick up some AW 18500 batteries.
 
we;; if you gring enough from the reflector interior surface...then you'l have an almost-malkoff

Your concerns about heat transfer are valid...I will see hot it goes.

BTW...this setup requires one the strong thick springs that are found in the various modules...Mainly for positive contact...
 
Hi thought i just post some pictures of the cheapo DX L2m i just received:

The light makes an overal good impression and feel solid in hand.
The knurling is not really agressive but ok. As far as i can see is this a good version of the L2m.
The switch module has a reverse clickie inside, as far as the quality of the switch assembly is concerned - i can't say very much about it - the future will tell.
The dropin is of course NOT a genuine SF dropin, its the usual 1-mode "Super bright R2" module from DX.
The Head is fully lego-able with my G2, and the Tailcaps fits also (see pictures. The G2 switch is not working on the L2m. An ultrafire RCR123 rattles in the body

All in all its a good little host or organ donor for 14.99$





 
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Hey kosPap,

I can't find the Cree TIR optic for the P60 module. Where did you get it. I sure would like to try one. Thanks.
 
sorry do not remember what it was...it was either from Kaidomain or dealextreme...it was sold as one..dx has many 10-packs...

I will buy one more and when i will find the sku number I will PM you
 
I am checking out the L2p jason@ sbflashlights.com managed to obtain for me, and I really like the matte look, and also the new clip you can get.


picture emphasis on clip:
IMG_0450_processed.JPG


more emphasis on body: it is shinier in the pics than in real life.
IMG_0454_processed.JPG
 
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barnefko said:
Hi thought i just post some pictures of the cheapo DX L2m i just received:

The light makes an overal good impression and feel solid in hand.
The knurling is not really agressive but ok. As far as i can see is this a good version of the L2m.
The switch module has a reverse clickie inside, as far as the quality of the switch assembly is concerned - i can't say very much about it - the future will tell.
The dropin is of course NOT a genuine SF dropin, its the usual 1-mode "Super bright R2" module from DX.
The Head is fully lego-able with my G2, and the Tailcaps fits also (see pictures. The G2 switch is not working on the L2m. An ultrafire RCR123 rattles in the body

All in all its a good little host or organ donor for 14.99$





Click to expand...
Just curious, but is that a synthetic head on your G2 ?
Mine has a regular metal 6P head. Also my G2 parts won't switch with my Solarforce L2M.
 
The G2s have a Nitrolon bezel. The G2Ls have an aluminum bezel.

I tried the tail cap from my G3 on my L2 and it does not work. The L2 tail cap on my G3 does not work, neither. I think with the L2 tail cap on the G3 the cap does not thread down far enough to make contact with the steel sleeve of the G3 while the G3 tail cap does not work because the button inside of it is making contact with the anodizing, which does not conduct. I can sand down the anodizing and it should work but I have different plans for my L2.
 
kosPap said:
sorry do not remember what it was...it was either from Kaidomain or dealextreme...it was sold as one..dx has many 10-packs...

I will buy one more and when i will find the sku number I will PM you
Click to expand...

I didn't see them either place, but I certainly could have overseen them. Thanks kosPap
 
b130379a72dd1ac731ba4d24e5a92445.jpg


Arrived today ! DX L2M

$14.15 USD Shipped :twothumbs

The driver is a little iffy , Im going to swap in a 1A buck boost driver .

0.75A returns 170-180Lumen .

This is the single mode version . [ Hmmm , driver swap :grin2: ]
 
Here's the stuff I used for a L2P forward click switch mod:

Solarforce.L2P.tailcap.1.jpg


- Spiderfire X03 rubber boot (little lower than original rubber boot)
- Washer from L2P tailcap
- Plastic frame (maybe from Spiderfire tailcap)
- Long spring from X03 tailcap
- Switch PCB from Ultrafire (fake Solarforce) tailstanding tailcap
- KD forward clicky switch

With these I get a small gap between the tailcap and the body. Unfortunately not enough for a lanyard ring.

Solarforce.L2P.tailcap.2.jpg


Btw my light is from the first batch with scratches inside the head.
 
sorry man but thsi us UGLY...maybe one of the ugliest legos...

but from the looks of it the output may be scary...
 
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