{{ Stuff that just works }}

[orbital]

.

The Hand-held impact hammer!

+

Poppy, another super post!
that impact hammer is exactly the type of thing you spot at a garage sale.
slowly pick it up, walk over to the owner & quietly ask "what do you want for it"

Whatever dollar you pay, because they don't make stout stuff like that any more,, new stuff would simply fall apart.

 

[bykfixer]

Craftsman made a good one a few years back. I bought one to use on stuck lug nuts and such for taking wheels off junkyard cars perched up on cinder blocks where using a lug wrench could topple the car off its perch.

 

[peter yetman]

So how do they work, if you don't mind me asking? I had an automated centre punch that you pushed down hard and it clunked and made its mark Does the impact hammer work like that and just shatter the rust bond?
P

 

[bykfixer]

It twists when you hit it with a hammer. Not much good if it aint lefty loosey, but perhaps just breaking the bond is good no matter which way the threads go.
Tried looking up a schematic but google thinks I'm looking for reflective paint…… so never mind

 

[Poppy]

Good morning Peter,
It can be used on left handed and right handed threads.

To use it, you put on the correct size attachment, whether it be a flat head, or phillips head screw driver, or 1/2 inch drive socket.
Then twist the body of the impact wrench in the direction that you want it to go. There is a heavy spring resistance, and it locks in place.

I imagine that internally, there is a twisted ramp, and that if you compress the outer portion of the body, it will turn perhaps a 1/16th of an inch in the direction that you set it to.

In use, it applies torque in the direction that you want it to, when you strike it, and there is the added benefit of vibration. And in the case of a phillips or flat head screw, the driver is less likely to slip and strip the head than if just light pressure is held against the head by hand.

If you look at my picture you can see where I have held the outside with water-pump/channel lock plyers while I beat the crap out of the tool with a hammer.

Here is a link to its 1965 patent, with a longer description than I care to read.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US3366187A/en

And an internal diagram.
https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/ec/85/d6/aa7657d71bf4f1/US3366187-drawings-page-1.png

 

[orbital]

So how do they work, if you don't mind me asking? I had an automated centre punch that you pushed down hard and it clunked and made its mark Does the impact hammer work like that and just shatter the rust bond?
P

+

It's very focused, downward energy motion to break rust bond.
You might say, just use an electric impact hammer, well there are spaces or situations that's not possible or ideal.
Also you just might want a more 'hand touch' on what you're doing.

Like anything else, prep work can be equally important;; some wd-40 or blaster/lube, let sit overnight, then maybe heat if possible.

focused energy motion

 

[Poppy]

+

It's very focused, downward energy motion to break rust bond.
You might say, just use an electric impact hammer, well there are spaces or situations that's not possible or ideal.
Also you just might want a more 'hand touch' on what you're doing.

Like anything else, prep work can be equally important;; some wd-40 or blaster/lube, let sit overnight, then maybe heat if possible.

focused energy motion

Absolutely! Prep work with WD-40 for overnight if possible.

A little heat? Can you pick out the fire-wrench in this picture?
It's been around the block a few times, but still works like a charm.

My Dad actually suggested using a soldering iron for heat. I never thought of that.

 

[Chauncey Gardener]

That dude Poppy, he LOOOOVES to solder! :laughing:

 

[orbital]

+

Had a specific customization to do; needed to drill hole & tap threads, plus a few other things.
couldn't find my tap wrench (which was a cheaper one anyway) so I decided just to get a new one.
now I don't need to buy the best tools, since Craftsman isn't the same anymore, I really just go for value.

Anyway, wanted to get a nice tap wrench for this project, so ordered up a Starrett 93B ,,
all I can say is what a treat to use such a beautiful tool, so simple yet perfect in execution.

..did I need a $33 tap wrench, no, but this one I will not misplace~ever

______

my custom part came out great!, used my drill press, bench vise, bench grinder, Starrett & a bit of paint.
(btw:: this custom part is inexplicably rare, just may look to see if it's already registered/Patented)

 

[ironhorse]

I've used cheap tap wrenches and quality tap wrenches. You wouldn't think it would make much of a difference, but it sure does.

 

[Poppy]

+

Had a specific customization to do; needed to drill hole & tap threads, plus a few other things.
couldn't find my tap wrench (which was a cheaper one anyway) so I decided just to get a new one.
now I don't need to buy the best tools, since Craftsman isn't the same anymore, I really just go for value.

Anyway, wanted to get a nice tap wrench for this project, so ordered up a Starrett 93B ,,
all I can say is what a treat to use such a beautiful tool, so simple yet perfect in execution.

..did I need a $33 tap wrench, no, but this one I will not misplace~ever

______

my custom part came out great!, used my drill press, bench vise, bench grinder, Starrett & a bit of paint.
(btw:: this custom part is inexplicably rare, just may look to see if it's already registered/Patented)

Wow!!! You used ALL the TOOLS!!! :)

What a great day at the work-bench :thumbsup:

Back in the late sixties, I bought a tap and die set out of some guys trunk. They were really cheap, to buy :rolleyes: and they were made in Japan, when "Made in Japan" meant Jap crap. I may not have used them a dozen times in the last 50 years, but they are handy to have. Some of taps have flattened out, and others have snapped. I probably spent more for the replacement wrench than I paid for the whole set. So that I don't lose the wrench, I zip tied it to the handle of the set (it won't fit inside the box).

 

[Poppy]

Need I say more?

 

[markr6]

Yeah that starter fluid. Never needed it for so many years until I bought a cheap-ish Ryobi trimmer. Once it starts getting cold at night (I leave it in the shed) startup get iffy. But the tiniest spray and it fires right up...and boy does it!

 

[JimIslander]

When I wear my Shimano baseball cap half the comments are thumbs up by fishermen. The other half by bicycle riders.

My oldest multi speed bikes have Shimano derailuers. They just work. I like their thumb shifters too.

I like their bicycle stuff much more than their fishing reels. Penn for me (I have plenty of both).

 

[Poppy]

Yeah that starter fluid. Never needed it for so many years until I bought a cheap-ish Ryobi trimmer. Once it starts getting cold at night (I leave it in the shed) startup get iffy. But the tiniest spray and it fires right up...and boy does it!

I guess in part because it is already aerosolized, and I guess it is more flammable than gasoline, that if it won't start on ether, you might need to check your spark, and then compression.

We always had a can or two in our tool box for our boats.
It was fairly common that we would have water in our fuel. We'd have to drop the carburetor bowl, toss the water, and then give her a shot or two of ether to get her started.

 

[orbital]

+

Basic leather work gloves, inexpensive unlined ones.
Not sure how many I'v gone through over the years, but they are indispensable.

 

[Lynx_Arc]

+1 on the leather and other cheap gloves as they save you from cuts and scrapes and when working on some thing save a lot of time on cleanup getting dirt and grease out from under the fingernails etc. Definitely recommended for trimming holly bushes.

 

[PhotonWrangler]

Regular old drugstore alcohol. Not only does it disinfect things, it turns "permanent" marker ink into butter instantly for a quick clean-up or mistake correction.

 

[Poppy]

Oh yeah... a big plus on work gloves!

I like the soft leather ones.

I also like the ones you can pick up at the Home Depot about $5 for a 5 pack of nitrile dipped cotton gloves. They are good for gardening (so your hands don't get wet) and I use them when working on my car. They are cheap enough that when they get greasy you can toss them. Although I have wiped them off on an oily rag to be used another day.

Since the back half is cotton, or maybe a poly blend, my hands don't sweat as much as they do if I were to wear nitrile gloves.

 

[Haroldlutsen]

1. Leatherman Sideclip. I NEED pocketclips, can't stand loose items in the bottom of my pockets, and can't really do belt sheaths day in day out. Probably my most used multitool. I had two, my son lost one, a member here found one for me in a hardware store in England and was kind enough to purchase and ship it to me. That is still new in box, while my original backup now gets used pretty hard.

2. 4WR Vise Grip pliers. Look just like regular, but 4" long. Tiny but incredibly useful. I had wanted a Leatherman Crunch (Theme here?) but they were pretty expensive for what they are in my opinion. These 4WR's are light, locking, fairly cheap, easy to pack, and make great pot handles when cooking. Also nice to have a second pair of pliers for gear repair , etc. in the woods. Makes a great bit holder for the Leatherman bits, or others for that matter. I've got four or five of these scattered in bags, cars, trucks, etc. Pics side by side forthcoming.
EDIT- Pics.

3. Zebralight SC62w. Ordered one, used it for one night when it showed up, have a second put aside in case the first one goes bad. I like it that much.

I’ve never found a suitable replacement for the leatherman side clip I wish there was something similar


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