The Official Zebralight Thread

[jon_slider]

thanks for the photos
my guess is the black is LH351d H53c LE
and the gray is XP-L2 H53w

here are some pics of the 3 possible LEDs, from newest to oldest

note the 519a has a triangle mark and the dome is smaller
note the LH351d has one clipped corner mark, and the dome is larger
note the XP-L2 has symmetrical corners and the largest dome
the XP-L2 was used in both the H53w and H53c

maybe with your eyes you can distinguish those marks better than the photo was able to capture

Here is a photo of an H53Fc, it shows the switch ring style of your gray light:

your light might also be an H53w, it might also use that switch ring style

 

[Schokokeks]

Another AA option to consider is the right angle version. It is smaller, smoother, and weighs less than the SC model. otoh, right angle lights are awqward to aim, and much more difficult to mouth hold, than a straight light.

I'm probably an outlier here, but I MUCH prefer right angle lights for anything that isn't walking around, and headlamps are still better for that as a primary light, with a handheld as a secondary.

I'm using my H53FcN today while doing some wood finishing. I put it in the Olight headband for a Perun Mini (It's like a $4 headband, and the only Olight product I like, haha), and it still has enough candela to create a raking light so I can see missed spots.

That's the beauty of an angled light; it can be a headlamp, or with a pocket clip, you can clip it to your shirt pocket shirt button line, belt, pant line, sock, etc, and you can have light exactly where you need it, in the direction you need it - while having both hands free.

In my view, AA lights are the best because of their small size. I LOVE headlamps, but they VERY QUICKLY become bothersome as their size increases, so a single AA headlamp is just perfection. If you're doing anything within maybe 20 feet, AA or AAA lights are just perfect. I save the larger batteries for larger handheld lights for distance tasks.

The Zebralight AA headlamps are great because they are quite small and light, and the floody optic has decent throw for bicycling or jogging (versus my Skilhunt H150 which, while I prefer overall, doesn't have as much throw, so it's less good for cycling or when I need directional, raking light).

In my view, headlamps/angled lights are WORKING lights, and straight lights are WALKING lights. You've got quite a few walking lights, so I think your collection needs a good headlamp, and the Zebralight AA is a great option (I'd get the floody option...in fact, I did).

Also, I don't care as much about Li-ion compatability in a headlamp. I prefer Eneloops in headlamps, anyway, cause...if that Li-ion decides to blow up, having that strapped to my forehead is going to be horrible...versus and Eneloop, where there's not really enough energy to be nearly as catastrophically dangerous (it's all a remote chance, of course, and I DO use Li-ion headlamps, but it's reassuring if I'm working in a more "get banged around" environment to know my battery is a bit safer).

 

[Beard Man]

How high quality is the Zebralight Headband?

 

[russprechtl]

How high quality is the Zebralight Headband?

They seem very nice to me. They use nice elastic and buckles on their straps.

 

[russprechtl]

note the XP-L2 has symmetrical corners and the largest dome.

With the naked eye, both have symmetrical corners and large domes. I assume that means both are XP-L2, right? Could you tell me what the CRI value is supposed to be on them?

 

[jon_slider]

Could you tell me what the CRI value is supposed to be on them?

H53w is 4500K CRI 80, probably the gray one (it is cooler and has slightly higher output)
H53c is 4000K CRI 93-95, probably the black one (very slightly warmer, slightly lower max output, better Red Color Rendering)

a thread about both models

 

[Schokokeks]

How high quality is the Zebralight Headband?

They seem very high quality to me. They use nice elastic and buckles on their straps.
View attachment 79039

I find the similarly designed headband that Sofirn used to use was better. These aren't BAD, they're just...kind of the generic Chinese headband standards. I find the Zebralight band is slightly nicer than cheaper ones, but it's still not a great system.

Skilhunt has a REALLY GREAT headband, but the holder is less universal.

The Olight one is kind of vaguely "universal," and it's REALLY easy to put a light in and out of it (Armytek has a similarly good headband).
The Olight is not as great as the Skilhunt, but I CAN put almost any light into the Olight. You can even put a straight hand torch into it, and use it on the side of your head!

 

[russprechtl]

H53w is 4500K CRI 80, probably the gray one (it is cooler and has slightly higher output)
H53c is 4000K CRI 93-95, probably the black one (very slightly warmer, slightly lower max output, better Red Color Rendering)

a thread about both models

Thank you so much Jon! You're the best. (y)

 

[Beard Man]

Just programmed my SC65c HI, it's not as difficult as I thought.

 

[jon_slider]

Congrats!

here is an SC65c Hi Official output list you may find useful:

 

[mega_lumens]

How high quality is the Zebralight Headband?

Either I’m doing something wrong or I have bad luck but my lightly used Zebra headbands lose their elasticity so quickly it’s annoying. It’s my third headband that goes bad and changing them is difficult because the two ring rubber rings that hold the light are very tight.

 

[dc38]

Either I’m doing something wrong or I have bad luck but my lightly used Zebra headbands lose their elasticity so quickly it’s annoying. It’s my third headband that goes bad and changing them is difficult because the two ring rubber rings that hold the light are very tight.

I find that sweat seems to deteriorate the elasticity of many light headbands...olight, armytek, zebra...then again, my physiology is quite atypical, so maybe I'm a little saltier and sweatier than most.

 

[jon_slider]

headbands lose their elasticity so quickly it's annoying

here is an inexpensive option.. I have not actually used it, dont know how long the elastic lasts:

 

[indigon]

Just programmed my SC65c HI, it's not as difficult as I thought. Basically there are three-flashlights in one, from Off 5/6 or 7 clicks and it works in G5/G6 or G7 modes.
Very nice, I like it!

How did you program yours?
For me, there's no need for complicated
configurations that I'll soon forget. But that's
just me, many folks enjoy all the optionality.

SC65c (for my preferred L-M-H use).
(Easy enough to change to H-L-M or whatever).

G5 group unchanged.
(My G6 & G7 groups are identical):

From off: Level# 1-12 & (Lumens) G6 & G7.

1-Click * Long Press * 2-Clicks
3(0.3 lm) .. 5 (4 lm) ...11(430 lm)
4(1.3 lm) .. 6(13 lm) ..11(430 lm)

3-clicks = 0.2Hz Low, for a locator beacon.
(Easily changed, scroll modes w/ 2 - clicks
once in strobe mode, remembers last used).
4-clicks = Battery Check.

This one has a MXG Spyderco Para 3 deep carry clip with a Mini Maglite Accessory Pack AM2A016 (AM2A016L). (Has a heavy duty rubber anti-roll protector cap that includes red, blue & clear lenses, requires some trimming for Zebralight's side-button access).
These protective caps fit well on many
similar diameter lights such as HDS, etc.
Excellent drop protection..

SC65c HI

 

[Beard Man]

How did you program yours?

G6 Mode.
When the light is Off:

One-click-157/27.5
Double-clicks-660/244
Press-and-hold-0.33/0.03

 

[indigon]

G6 Mode.
When the light is Off:

One-click-157/27.5
Double-clicks-660/244
Press-and-hold-0.33/0.03

Ok thanks. The majority of my use is in lower levels. I can never remember what the last mode my lights were in. When possible I prefer presets to start off lower so I don't get my socks blown off when first activating a light.

 

[jon_slider]

The majority of my use is in lower levels

thanks for the visuals and your program layout

the majority of my use is medium levels, but I set one sublumen level, so I can use it as a nightstand light with 1 Clic. I just have to remember to choose the sublumen level when I put the light down on my nightstand.

Truth be told, I sometimes just use G5 and start the light with a Long Hold, so it starts on very low outputs..

The stock G5 program is actually very predictable if I use Long Hold to Ride the Zebra.. lol

 

[indigon]

I prefer lower settings for the first-click on, otherwise my night vision gets messed up. Medium is set a long-press away, off or on. Rarely do I need the upper levels unless I'm exploring or searching for something..

My HDS work lights are a little better suited for this type of use because of its excellent UI, but you can buy (4) Zebralights for the price of an HDS nowadays. The quality, build, efficiency and durability of the Zebralights is well justified IMHO.

.

 

[jon_slider]

Thanks for the beautiful photo!

I prefer lower settings for the first-click on, otherwise my night vision gets messed up.

agree

we chose very similar modes (firefly measured by mcbob)
1 Clic output set to level 2, about 0.05 lm "firefly low"
We also both set level 6, about 13 lm, as our "medium"
And 2 Clic for level 11, about 435 lm for "maximum"

but you can buy (4) Zebralights for the price of an HDS nowadays

agree..
And the Zebra weighs less, has 4x the battery capacity, and offers higher maximum output

 

[DE73]

I think I bought this light year 2011 and I like it a lot. I think it’s H51? The tint is cold white. If I buy a new Zebra aa will I notice any benefits?