The Official Zebralight Thread

Candle Power Forums

Help Support Candle Power:

Why more ergonomic?
Because it's contoured, for your holding pleasure :)
The recessed switch might also be easier on your fingers or joints, depending how you actuate the light.
1000007736.jpg
1000007737.jpg
 
I think I bought this light year 2011 and I like it a lot. I think it's H51? The tint is cold white. If I buy a new Zebra aa will I notice any benefits?
Yes, I believe so. I don't have the specs on a 2011-era light, but in general you should see more output on the highest mode, and better tint and color rendition on all modes.
 
Yes, I believe so. I don't have the specs on a 2011-era light, but in general you should see more output on the highest mode, and better tint and color rendition on all modes.
The max lumens has not increased so much for the new lights. I think H51 have 200 lumens, not so much more for the new lights.
I don’t like cold white so a new one with neutral would be nice.
 
You all missed runtime ;-)
I found old specification for H51 and runtime for 100 lumens is 2,4 hrs. The new ones have around 3,5 hrs with 100 lumens.
Or is this increase because battery improvements?
 
is this increase because battery improvements?
it is due to LED improvements
What's the difference between H54Fc and H504c?
Which one is newest?

They are all new, and use the same newest LED, 4000K 519a

H504c N is a Full Flood beam for very close range :
H54Fc N is Floody beam
H54c N is a more Throwy Beam, clear lens over reflector

Screen Shot 2025-05-21 at 6.41.21 AM.png
 
Last edited:
The battery capacity indicator is god to have. Now I check if the light turn on to max = okay battery
 
it is due to LED improvements


They are all new, and use the same newest LED, 4000K 519a

H504c N is a Full Flood beam for very close range :
H54Fc N is Floody beam
H54c N is a more Throwy Beam, clear lens over reflector

View attachment 79197
I will use it for edc, traveling, camping and hiking so I think H54Fc N is the best for me?
 
I have been thinking about the full flood mule version as a close up light that I would hang off a chest pocket or web gear. I am curious about the difference between the full mule vs floody beam pattern...
 
Last edited:
The new aa headlamps are also smaller, length is 6mm shorter and also diameter is smaller. I think the new lights will fell quite a lot smaller.
 
agree..
And the Zebra weighs less, has 4x the battery capacity, and offers higher maximum output
The only issue I've heard by some is the Zebra switches may get mushy after a while and not work, (this may have been corrected). The Zebra switch was rated at 100,000 clicks, the McBob upgrades are rated about 500,000 clicks. Price difference is negligible on the 2 switch types, so not sure why this wouldn't be addressed. I understand customer support from Zebra is almost non-existent so the only option would be a third party repair like McBob etc.

Edit: Bob_McBob noted in a following thread:

"I don't think Zebralight switches fail at an unusually high rate. It's a combination of a UI that requires a lot of clicks, but moreover that Zebralights just get kept and used a lot longer than many other brands. The ones I receive for modding with mushy or completely broken switches are always very well used.."

. . .

Everything else about the light seems robust. I have one of the original SC65c HI lights, no PWM, excellent beam, and probably only have a few thousand clicks on mine. So by the time it possibly dies out in few years there will no doubt be much better choices available. Fingers crossed ..🤞

1-Click * Long Press * 2-Clicks
3(0.3 lm) .. 5 (4 lm) ...11 (430 lm)
4(1.5 lm) .. 6 (13 lm) .11 (430 lm)

sc65c_table.jpg
 
Last edited:
It's only as difficult as you want to make it, lol.

View attachment 78972

It's not difficult, it's how Zebralight UI works.

Like I said, you can't avoid preflash on 2C from Off, the only way to "avoid" it is to set 1C to the lowest level: 0.03/0.11, in this case you simply won't notice it.

Or, you can cover the front lens by hand to avoid High 1C level preflash, if your 2C from Off is low level, for example.

And also, as another member on this forum mentioned: "if my Zebra turns on at an output that is too bright, when I do 2C from on without waiting long enough, it gives me Strobe."

It happened to me a couple times, so annoying.
 
Last edited:
Is the clear lens considered more allround then frosted? Maybe the H54c N is better for me.
I have a strong preference for the clear lens, but it’s a personal thing, and a lot of people like their lenses frosted. Frosted is better for up-close work, no doubt.
But I always figure that it’s easier to come up with a field-expedient diffuser than a field-expedient concentrator. And I often stick a pre-cut disc of DCFix onto the battery before I slide it in, so that I’ll have it if I want it.
 
It's not difficult, it's how Zebralight UI works.

Like I said, you can't avoid preflash on 2C from Off, the only way to "avoid" it is to set 1C to the lowest level: 0.03/0.11, in this case you simply won't notice it.
Or (when Off) you can just Press-Hold and it will scroll up L-M-H regardless of how you program it. No preflash?

From (On) Press-Hold will start in your Long-Press setting first then start scrolling up.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top