Work wear

[Fuzzywuzzies]

Nice!!!

 

[PaladinNO]

I figured this was the closest relevant thread for this.

Personal safety gear for soldering - do any of you use any such gear when modding flashlights and the like?

I am currently in the process of clearing and later painting a room where I want to make a soldering station, but I know from high school I am very sensitive to such fumes and gases.

Even when in a dedicated, well ventilated space with dedicated, enclosed stations with no active soldering or welding going on (basically when we just got a tour of the area), I got an intense headache in less than an hour. No one else reacted, but when I got outside again, it disappeared. The teacher was surprised, but said some people just are that sensitive.

I just ordered a 150 mm wall fan (Flexit 150 B) intended as active ventilation, and I already have a 3M 7802 half-mask with 6059 ABEK1 gas filter and 5935 P3 particle filter.

I also have face-fitting safety goggles.

Now the question is, should this be enough for very sporadic use, or should I at least consider a full face mask, like the 3M 6800?
I have no details regarding which flux, solder, soldering iron or anything I may use yet.

 

[Monocrom]

Oh! Absolutely, full face-mask.

So many folks have this mentality of "It's just a quick job, I don't need ALL of my safety gear. It'll take longer to put on than doing the work itself."

That's usually when disaster strikes. Then they're in the back of the ambulance, wondering if they'll be disfigured for Life, or worse. Even with my little 5" pruning chainsaw, I put on all of the safety gear that I would if I was using my electric, cordless 10" traditional-looking, bigger, chainsaw.

 

[PaladinNO]

Oh! Absolutely, full face-mask.

Thanks, I expected as much. Especially since this will only be an at-home solution, and not a dedicated room, made for purpose. Though I will be having a fan (wall mounted bathroom fan) right in front of me.

But do you have any more details or additional context on that? What I should be aware of, or potential risks when soldering?
Or put differently, what are the extra benefits of using a full face-mask with filters, compared to a half-mask with the same filters?

Don't inhale the fumes, and they will irritate the eyes, that I already know and understand, but is there anything else?

Not trying to argue against getting full-mask, but I use and need to use glasses, and from what I find, glasses wont fit properly with the full mask and break the seal. There is a lens kit (as shown in the video below), but that costs as much as the mask itself, with the cost of the lenses themselves on top of that.

I haven't yet used my gas filters, but they are better rated than what is required or "minimum recommended" for soldering, and I have better rated particle filters to place on top (I know I need to use both).

I am asking because I found this video:
"Can You Wear Glasses Under a Full Face 3M Respirator? NO!! | Test Shows How Bad It Is."


Which basically makes the 3M 6800 (the one I consider, and the exact one shown in the video), 200 USD full-face mask pointless since I wear glasses.

 

[Monocrom]

Thanks, I expected as much. Especially since this will only be an at-home solution, and not a dedicated room, made for purpose. Though I will be having a fan (wall mounted bathroom fan) right in front of me.

Sorry for the wait. Last 48 hours were unexpectedly time-consuming. Haven't posted on CPF since Monday night.

But do you have any more details or additional context on that? What I should be aware of, or potential risks when soldering?

Honestly, whenever I use any tools that accidental mishandling could lead to life-long injury or long-term injuries, I go overboard on safety gear. Plus, certain power-tools, I just refuse to use. Technically soldering doesn't involve a power-tool per se, but the heat that is generated is dangerous. Badly burned fingers would be the biggest risk. Still, a blob of solder that just onto the face.... Rare, but can happen. Goggles are a minimum for eye-protection. Still, I don't need a disfiguring scar on my face.

Or put differently, what are the extra benefits of using a full face-mask with filters, compared to a half-mask with the same filters?

As noted above, just extra cautionary facial protection. That's the only real difference.

Don't inhale the fumes, and they will irritate the eyes, that I already know and understand, but is there anything else?

In my experience, no. Though that is a BIG one, obviously.

Not trying to argue against getting full-mask, but I use and need to use glasses, and from what I find, glasses wont fit properly with the full mask and break the seal. There is a lens kit (as shown in the video below), but that costs as much as the mask itself, with the cost of the lenses themselves on top of that.

I would rather that you see what your doing, properly. So in your case, definitely better off not using the full-face shield.

I haven't yet used my gas filters, but they are better rated than what is required or "minimum recommended" for soldering, and I have better rated particle filters to place on top (I know I need to use both).

Yup, both. Treat any "minimum" recommended gear as a starting point. If you can afford better gear, buy the better gear.

I am asking because I found this video:
"Can You Wear Glasses Under a Full Face 3M Respirator? NO!! | Test Shows How Bad It Is."

Again, I can only go by my personal experiences. Granted, I don't do soldering for a living. I don't even do it every month. If someone with far more experience says "No." Seriously consider their advice. Will say, there have been a couple of times in my life where I did something that a so-called Pro swore couldn't be done. Did it right in front of them. The looks on their faces were priceless.

Which basically makes the 3M 6800 (the one I consider, and the exact one shown in the video), 200 USD full-face mask pointless since I wear glasses.

Again, in your case; yes. Pointless. But I'll still recommend a full-face mask to others.

 

[PaladinNO]

Sorry for the wait. Last 48 hours were unexpectedly time-consuming. Haven't posted on CPF since Monday night.

Honestly, whenever I use any tools that accidental mishandling could lead to life-long injury or long-term injuries, I go overboard on safety gear. Plus, certain power-tools, I just refuse to use. Technically soldering doesn't involve a power-tool per se, but the heat that is generated is dangerous. Badly burned fingers would be the biggest risk. Still, a blob of solder that just onto the face.... Rare, but can happen. Goggles are a minimum for eye-protection. Still, I don't need a disfiguring scar on my face.

As noted above, just extra cautionary facial protection. That's the only real difference.

No worries, friend, though I did wonder whether you had forgotten about it.
The whole soldering project is so far away, I am still in the pre-planning phase of considering thinking about it. But I like making mental notes of everything before I get to the point where I may be forced to make a rushed decision.

Yeah, protecting against hot solder to the face was the one risk I guessed at, based off of what you said. And the 3M 6800 does have disposable lens covers available. 3M 6885.

Third part solution shown here, but same principle.

I have been thinking about gloves - and I do remember we didn't use anything at school (didn't use any facemasks at all either, when doing the introduction to solder, from what I recall - only wore protective goggles). Is disposable nitrile gloves really enough against the hot solder? Already have fire-retardant gloves (Tegera 17 welding gloves) I intend for use with an angle grinder.

I really have no idea about this. From what I am told, I would want at least a 50W soldering iron, with a resting station, but I have no idea what that means in terms of how hot things get. Or what solder I should use - or even everything I want to do. Making more permanent 12 VDC connections would be one thing, with heat shrinks.

I know what you mean about not taking risks - I may still be at the age where I take risks, but I like to be sufficiently protected to make it calculated risks. For me though, a petrol chainsaw is the one tool I don't want to use. Not unless I'm clad like a medieval knight, in full plate steel.

I've used one twice, and at the end of that second time, well, I don't care how close I was or not - even with steel toed shoes and chainsaw protective (filled with fibres) pants, it felt too close for comfort as I pressed the trigger (saw was already idling) and my left hand suddenly slipped off the handle bar. Losing balance from the startle, I was unable to hold the saw with one hand and it barreled down towards the ground (and my foot).

I hadn't noticed part of my glove had gotten very slippery from touching something right before the incident. When I had regained control, I pushed the chain break chain-brake (thank you, @Monocrom ), put the saw down and said I was done. We were two people, each with our own saw, clearing an area around our family cabin. It all happened so fast, it really put the scare in me.

Damn, throughout writing this, I suddenly had that thought of "I'll try using what I have, and see how it goes" - eh, that's like how permanent damage happens 101.

EDIT:
Typo.

 

[PaladinNO]

Yup, both. Treat any "minimum" recommended gear as a starting point. If you can afford better gear, buy the better gear.

Again, I can only go by my personal experiences. Granted, I don't do soldering for a living. I don't even do it every month. If someone with far more experience says "No." Seriously consider their advice.

Hell yeah, reason why I have been spending heavily into personal protective equipment over the past 2 years. For one, I didn't know the age of what I had - didn't even know a lot of such gear have an expiration date, and when I learned that and didn't find anything on what I had, a lot found its way into the thrash.

Second, the quality of the gear I had - gloves in particular (but also ear protectors and goggles). For the longest time, I thought a glove is a glove, and went with whatever was the cheapest. Now I have checked whatever is best for the task I intend to do, including looking for sertifications - and as that has required like 7 different types of gloves, well, that is what I bought (cuts, contact heat, sparks, impact, vibration etc.). And 90 % of the gloves I had has also found their way into the thrash. And good riddance, I never liked the majority of them from the start.

Regarding soldering though, I wanted to ask here, because over half the replies on Reddit suggested "you don't need any safety gear when soldering." The ones with actual experience were in a clear minority, but with little details on the type of gear they recommended (I got the sense they only wished they had used proper gear earlier), so I wanted some more opinions as well.

 

[Toulouse42]

Hell yeah, reason why I have been spending heavily into personal protective equipment over the past 2 years. For one, I didn't know the age of what I had - didn't even know a lot of such gear have an expiration date, and when I learned that and didn't find anything on what I had, a lot found its way into the thrash.

Second, the quality of the gear I had - gloves in particular (but also ear protectors and goggles). For the longest time, I thought a glove is a glove, and went with whatever was the cheapest. Now I have checked whatever is best for the task I intend to do, including looking for sertifications - and as that has required like 7 different types of gloves, well, that is what I bought (cuts, contact heat, sparks, impact, vibration etc.). And 90 % of the gloves I had has also found their way into the thrash. And good riddance, I never liked the majority of them from the start.

Regarding soldering though, I wanted to ask here, because over half the replies on Reddit suggested "you don't need any safety gear when soldering." The ones with actual experience were in a clear minority, but with little details on the type of gear they recommended (I got the sense they only wished they had used proper gear earlier), so I wanted some more opinions as well.

I have a friend who years ago was a Chemistry teacher at a secondary school. He was explaining to the kids the importance of safety glasses when a blob of something hot hit his eye. His trip to hospital in an ambulance was all the lesson the kids needed.

 

[TPA]

I figured this was the closest relevant thread for this.

Personal safety gear for soldering - do any of you use any such gear when modding flashlights and the like?

I am currently in the process of clearing and later painting a room where I want to make a soldering station, but I know from high school I am very sensitive to such fumes and gases.

Even when in a dedicated, well ventilated space with dedicated, enclosed stations with no active soldering or welding going on (basically when we just got a tour of the area), I got an intense headache in less than an hour. No one else reacted, but when I got outside again, it disappeared. The teacher was surprised, but said some people just are that sensitive.

I just ordered a 150 mm wall fan (Flexit 150 B) intended as active ventilation, and I already have a 3M 7802 half-mask with 6059 ABEK1 gas filter and 5935 P3 particle filter.


I also have face-fitting safety goggles.

Now the question is, should this be enough for very sporadic use, or should I at least consider a full face mask, like the 3M 6800?
I have no details regarding which flux, solder, soldering iron or anything I may use yet.

Former broadcast engineer / live production engineer here... and honestly, we didn't use any personal protection for any fine (circuit board) work at the workbench. If the spirit moved us, safety glasses, especially when having to solder in confined spaces or unusual angles. We always used lead solder. The non-lead stuff just doesn't work as well.

That said, ventilation was key. Each workbench had a small fan with carbon filter on the intake to blow the fumes away from you and capture some of it. We had a couple of workbenches with small flexible ducts (dryer vent) which were connected to extractor fans to move the fumes outside the building. These were the desks we'd use when it was more than just a quick component swap, or if we had time. Realistically, a decent 120mm computer fan connected to a duct hanging out the window would be more than sufficient as long as it's intake, or a duct is near the soldering work.

When doing work-in-place in the studio cabinets, squirrel-cage blowers were used to help keep fresh air coming into the studio. Usually in the studio doorway, door propped open by it, blowing fresh air in across the ground, with the theory that the solder smoke rises.

I have no idea how many solder joints I've done over the past 30+ years, but some days it was intense. And I turned out alright, as you can tell by my posts.

 

[PaladinNO]

That said, ventilation was key. Each workbench had a small fan with carbon filter on the intake to blow the fumes away from you and capture some of it. We had a couple of workbenches with small flexible ducts (dryer vent) which were connected to extractor fans to move the fumes outside the building. These were the desks we'd use when it was more than just a quick component swap, or if we had time. Realistically, a decent 120mm computer fan connected to a duct hanging out the window would be more than sufficient as long as it's intake, or a duct is near the soldering work.

Sounds like what we had at school. It's been 26 years so I've forgotten almost everything, but as I recall, the soldering stations had separate exhaust fans at each station, with a piece of duct on a swivel arm we could move around for the best efficiency. I am wanting to install something similar here at home. Just ordered a 150 mm bathroom wall fan that I intend to install at a suitable height.

No air intakes here at home, apart from the door behind me, but there is a large window right next to me. I figured a fan - with the window closed - would give me more control.
...And as for 120 mm computer fans, well, I do have some spare Delta GFB1212VHW fans (120x76, 220 CFM - or 59 dB of awesome) from my 2008 computer build, when I was in a weird part of my life. ^^
I also have plenty of more sensible case fans if need be.

Whichever solution i go for, I am also wanting a HEPA filter of some sort, and a piece of duct ideally on a swivel arm. Looking at custom solutions involving a kitchen ventilation duct and a computer monitor swivel arm, seeing if I can mix those together somehow.

 

[Monocrom]

I have been thinking about gloves - and I do remember we didn't use anything at school (didn't use any facemasks at all either, when doing the introduction to solder, from what I recall - only wore protective goggles). Is disposable nitrile gloves really enough against the hot solder? Already have fire-retardant gloves (Tegera 17 welding gloves) I intend for use with an angle grinder.

If you decide to use gloves, you need to find very skin-tight, fire retardant gloves. From my experience, none of the disposeable gloves out there are good enough. Not even remotely! The welding gloves you have sound good. But if wearing them makes it hard to hold onto what you're soldering, that becomes another issue.

I really have no idea about this. From what I am told, I would want at least a 50W soldering iron, with a resting station, but I have no idea what that means in terms of how hot things get. Or what solder I should use - or even everything I want to do. Making more permanent 12 VDC connections would be one thing, with heat shrinks.

No offense intended. Sounds like you need to do more research before tackling any remotely serious project. When I decided I wanted a chainsaw, you'd be amazed how much research I did, how much time I took before even buying mine.

I know what you mean about not taking risks - I may still be at the age where I take risks, but I like to be sufficiently protected to make it calculated risks. For me though, a petrol chainsaw is the one tool I don't want to use. Not unless I'm clad like a medieval knight, in full plate steel.

Agreed. One of those would be too powerful and dangerous in my hands. Difference between hugging a tiny lion cub born in a zoo who is in a playful mood -vs.- trying the same on a full-grown lion born in the wild who is hungry and angry. My "under-powered" electric, battery-operated chainsaw with the stubby 10" bar is good enough for my needs and physical ability. But I'm still going in decked out in all of the same safety gear as that hangry adult lion.

I've used one twice, and at the end of that second time, well, I don't care how close I was or not - even with steel toed shoes and chainsaw protective (filled with fibres) pants, it felt too close for comfort as I pressed the trigger (saw was already idling) and my left hand suddenly slipped off the handle bar. Losing balance from the startle, I was unable to hold the saw with one hand and it barreled down towards the ground (and my foot).

I hadn't noticed part of my glove had gotten very slippery from touching something right before the incident. When I had regained control, I pushed the chain break, put the saw down and said I was done. We were two people, each with our own saw, clearing an area around our family cabin. It all happened so fast, it really put the scare in me.

Unfortunately, that's how fast a tragedy can happen with chainsaws. Perfect example why I refuse to use a modern-day one without a chain-brake. Very recently, along with Ryobi's 18v. battery platform, I also standardized on Bauer's 20v. battery platform as well. If Ryobi doesn't have a properly designed version of a tool that I want, I then look at Bauer's offerings. Usually if a comparable Ryobi power-tool is just too expensive, I'll go with the cheaper Bauer offering of the same tool.

My chainsaw being the one HUGE exception. Bauer's offering is literally half the price of the one from Ryobi that I purchased. Both, very capable of getting the job done. The Bauer has no chain-brake. The Ryobi, does. I happily paid twice the asking-price of the Bauer to get that basic safety feature that all 2-handed chainsaws should have. Also, oddly, rarely mentioned; clearing the area below and right in front of your feet before cutting. Like the pyramids themselves.... You need a stable as possible base before making any cuts. As far as grip, yeah always best to check your gloves before cutting. Especially if cutting through a Maple tree or any other type that easily gives off sap. One thing I don't like about my Ryobi chainsaw is that the support-hand handle could definitely be gripper. I plan to wrap Gun tape around it for a better grip. (Often sold online as Goon Tape to avoid the ridiculous filter that some websites use, such as eBay, for blocking listings of anything with the word "Gun" in it.)

Your example is why I refuse to use a corded chainsaw as well. Not due to the inconvenience of an extra-long extension cord being a Must-Have accessory for those things. But if anything goes wrong, tossing the chainsaw away becomes dangerous as the cord could cause the saw to come flying back at the user!

Much better a broken and damaged chainsaw than a broken and damaged user. The former is much easier to fix or replace. If I have to, I'm tossing that Ryobi chainsaw as far away as possible. But thankfully the chain-brake on her is working properly.

Damn, throughout writing this, I suddenly had that thought of "I'll try using what I have, and see how it goes" - eh, that's like how permanent damage happens 101.

EXACTLY!

 

[Monocrom]

Hell yeah, reason why I have been spending heavily into personal protective equipment over the past 2 years. For one, I didn't know the age of what I had - didn't even know a lot of such gear have an expiration date, and when I learned that and didn't find anything on what I had, a lot found its way into the thrash.

That's where expired safety gear belongs. Human body parts don't grow back. You did the right thing.

Second, the quality of the gear I had - gloves in particular (but also ear protectors and goggles). For the longest time, I thought a glove is a glove, and went with whatever was the cheapest. Now I have checked whatever is best for the task I intend to do, including looking for sertifications - and as that has required like 7 different types of gloves, well, that is what I bought (cuts, contact heat, sparks, impact, vibration etc.). And 90 % of the gloves I had has also found their way into the thrash. And good riddance, I never liked the majority of them from the start.

A lot of the times, the cheapest option that gets the job done is perfectly fine. But yeah, you figured out something that few folks do. Sometimes you end up wasting money on the cheap stuff, then buy the good stuff later on. Gloves?....

Yup! Years ago, bought a cheap pair of Kobalt work-gloves at one of the ultra rare visits I make to Lowe's. They looked good, felt good. Used them once on a small job. Put them away into a plastic shopping bag. Forgot about them for 3 years. Found them again. Put them on, I see little black bugs covering my hands, falling off of the gloves. The bag is crawling with them! Then I took a closer look. Wasn't bugs at all. The Kobalt gloves were black and blue. Kobalt's colors. The black portion of the gloves literally disintegrated in the bag after just lying there for three years! I couldn't believe it! Immediately went to Home Depot, bought a pair of very NOT cheap Milwaukee work gloves. Owned those for years now. They are worth every penny!

Regarding soldering though, I wanted to ask here, because over half the replies on Reddit suggested "you don't need any safety gear when soldering." The ones with actual experience were in a clear minority, but with little details on the type of gear they recommended (I got the sense they only wished they had used proper gear earlier), so I wanted some more opinions as well.

Oh my God! Never ask for advice on anything but how to troll others online, from Reddit! Guaranteed, over half of those replies wanted you to get injured.

 

[PaladinNO]

[...] bought a pair of very NOT cheap Milwaukee work gloves. Owned those for years now. They are worth every penny!

Oh my God! Never ask for advice on anything but how to troll others online, from Reddit! Guaranteed, over half of those replies wanted you to get injured.

Several of the proper gloves I have bought over the past 2 years are Milwaukee. VERY happy with ALL of them!
Not sure about the names but here are the EAN codes for ones I have bought: Milwaukee 48229744 (Fingerless Work Gloves), 4058546290542 (5/E Cut), 4058546373559 (5/E Winter Cut), 4058546373634 (Impact Demolition).

The Milwaukee Impact Demolition particularly impressed me. I once used them when I changed the wheels on my car, and on one corner there was like 2 centimteres (~1") of melting, icy water on the ground, barely around freezing. I laid the full back of my hand into it to assist getting the new wheel on, and had it in there for a couple minutes, and I didn't feel a thing. Nothing at all. The glove looked absolutely soaked when I was done, but I still didn't feel wet or cold at all. My previous pair of gloves for that usecase would have acted more akin to a sponge in seconds.

Got a bunch of the other new gloves listed here.

As for Reddit, to be fair, I don't have an account there - I only googled "recommend safety gear when soldering", looking for information and recommendations, and a few Reddit threads showed up. There are the times when I would like to participate in r/Flashlight or r/Hanklight, but then I read what should be more serious threads (like regarding personal safety), and there's like 70% or more with just trolling. And the last 30 % didn't give me the answers I was looking for. So, I came here to ask.

But the 3M 6800 full-face mask is on my list now.
In this example shown with the ABEK1 gas filters (exact ones I already have), but without any particle filters (but which I also already have).

As far as the soldering iron itself, solder and accessories goes...yeah, I freely admit I haven't looked much into that. I figure that's on the to-do list once the room is ready, and I am actually ready to use it.
But I guess i will ask some more here, in the Tools Brand-thread, once I am ready for it.

So I will say thanks alot for all the answers, all sensible and useful. And I just got the stuff and materials I needed to work on the room I want to paint and make into a soldering booth. Wall fan arrived today too, so now there's just getting the rest of the cleaning done, tape every frame with masking tape, and get the job done. Going from a Deep Blue (not our choice, the room was like that) to a Warm Yellow (Jotun 1304, "Romantic" - no joke, that is the name of the colour...).

And I hope to be posting some more on the progress in the What I have been up to-thread Soon™

 

[Monocrom]

Looking forward to updates from you in that topic.
Now to take a closer look at that link, and perhaps add a couple of more pairs of gloves to those I already own.

 

[PaladinNO]

Now to take a closer look at that link, and perhaps add a couple of more pairs of gloves.

Heh, I'm already ahead of you (unless you meant, some more gloves for you?) - along with a pair of Helly Hansen 71374 high-visibility winter jackets, I also ordered a triple-pack of Tegera 7775.

Loading…

www.ejendals.com

Loading…

www.amazon.co.uk

List price around 80 USD or more a pair - I paid around 70 USD for 3 pairs. And ~75 USD for both jackets.
Expected to arrive on Tuesday.

I definitely don't need any more work clothes now, but you wouldn't happen to find a pricetag on Snickers Workwear 6580 (pants) and 1981 (jacket)?

 

[Monocrom]

Yes, sorry I misspoke.... Mistyped.
Corrected my post. But feel free to buy more gloves for yourself as well.

Snickers Jacket 1981 = 537.50 British Pounds Sterling.
Snickers Pants 6580 = 449.08 British Pounds Sterling.

The official website didn't mention prices in other denominations.

 

[PaladinNO]

Snickers Jacket 1981 = 537.50 British Pounds Sterling.
Snickers Pants 6580 = 449.08 British Pounds Sterling.

Thank you. And did they look like good, quality clothes to you?

I am asking, because...I am trying to talk myself out of buying both pieces for 259 GBP (348 USD). Add another 15 USD or so for shipping.
Same store where I ordered the Tegera gloves and Helly Hansen jackets above.

I already have two proper Snickers winter pants (6619 and 6639, latter is the hi-viz version), which more than does the job of keeping me warm when I'm outside in a snowstorm and clearing the driveway. And three Timbra insulated winter jackets. -20°C (-4°F), plus wind factor, is literally a breeze when I'm dressed up in what I already have. Any colder than that, and I have no business being outside at all.

To be perfectly honest, I mostly want to buy them simply just to own clothes worth that much, if that even makes sense. 986 GBP clothes at like 75 % off - even when not needing them, there comes a time when a purchase is a no-brainer. And my paycheck arrives today.
...Except I really don't need them.

 

[Monocrom]

Thank you. And did they look like good, quality clothes to you?

Actually yes, they looked very good from the pics.

I am asking, because...I am trying to talk myself out of buying both pieces for 259 GBP (348 USD). Add another 15 USD or so for shipping.
Same store where I ordered the Tegera gloves and Helly Hansen jackets above.

Honestly, I doubt you'll be successful in that endeavor.

I already have two proper Snickers winter pants (6619 and 6639, latter is the hi-viz version), which more than does the job of keeping me warm when I'm outside in a snowstorm and clearing the driveway. And three Timbra insulated winter jackets. -20°C (-4°F), plus wind factor, is literally a breeze when I'm dressed up in what I already have. Any colder than that, and I have no business being outside at all.

I agree. The Outside world in general isn't worth visiting. (Not even joking.)

To be perfectly honest, I mostly want to buy them simply just to own clothes worth that much, if that even makes sense. 986 GBP clothes at like 75 % off - even when not needing them, there comes a time when a purchase is a no-brainer. And my paycheck arrives today.
...Except I really don't need them.

What is this odd word you speak of? "Need." Seems strange to me.

 

[PaladinNO]

Actually yes, they looked very good from the pics.

You're not helping me, brother! Now I want to buy them even more! ^^

 

[PaladinNO]

If you decide to use gloves, you need to find very skin-tight, fire retardant gloves. From my experience, none of the disposeable gloves out there are good enough. Not even remotely! The welding gloves you have sound good. But if wearing them makes it hard to hold onto what you're soldering, that becomes another issue.

I spoke (typed) too soon on what gloves I had for use with the angle grinder. I thought I had Tegera 17 (left), but the ones I have are Hestra Pro 73760 Kobolt FR (right).

From the manufacturer:

The Kobolt FR is a flameproof version of Hestra’s popular Kobolt assembly glove. The backhand is in Nomex®, an aramide-based fabric that won’t burn or melt. The fit is close to the hand with hardwearing goatskin on the palm and reinforced fingers and thumb. Perfect when you need protection and fingertip sensitivity, and extra suitable for engineering and industrial environments where welding or grinding sparks may arise.

I haven't used them yet other than tried them on (haven't used an angle grinder since I bought them), but they are only ~25 USD, so I can buy another pair if they are any good for soldering as well.

And another thing I forgot to ask - I have a spare sheet of polycarbonate and an old piece of transparent plastic after I replaced the window in the wall between the seats and cargo area in my panel van. Can that be used to make an elevated and angled protective shield between what I solder and my face? That should eliminate the need for a full face mask against splash damage, as well as help guide the fumes towards the wall fan.