Good Day all ! My first time on the forum and I'm hoping someone is kind enough to steer me in the right direction. I'm interested in a 2xAA light that produces a long throw tight focused beam. I had absolutely no idea there were so many lights to choose from!!!! From my limited knowledge I was looking at the Fenix L2T v2.0 or the L2D CE. Prior to me finding this forum I stumbled across the coast led lenser that produced 149 lumens which appeared to be a good choice?? I'm so in the dark!:thinking:
2xAA Round-up Review: Fenix, Nitecore, Olight, ITP, Eagletac, Jetbeam, Mag ...
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roymail
Enlightened
First, welcome to CPF... you've found a great place to learn and get answers to questions such as the one you've asked. However, there is a subjective element to all of this. Ultimately, you have to decide what is best for you.
That said, the Fenix lights you mentioned are good choices along with the TK20. Also, the Olights tend to have a more focused beam with good throw... be sure to check them out.
Finally, here is very helpful website... http://www.light-reviews.com/reviews.html
So many lights... so little money!
:welcome:
The Fenix L2D/L2T lights are definitely stronger contenders. They are great overall lights with decent throw. As you can see in the review beamshots and summary table, there are some lights that throw better and have slightly narrower spillbeams - but the difference between most of these lights isn't so great in actual use. I think you would be happy with either the L2D or L2T.
LED lenser (i.e. Coast) lights aren't generally very popular here, since they are perceived to make a large number of relatively lower quality lights (although certain select models can be quite decent).
And :welcome:
NightTime
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I agree that the Fenix TK20 and the Olight T25 (Tactical or Regular version) are your best choices. If you go at light-reviews.com, filter your choices by battery type (here it's AA) and than click twice on "Max Lux" just below the battery type window to sort them. Because Lux reading are giving you the throw of a light the best thrower will be at the top. Between the first three kings there are some major user interface (UI) differences. Read the full and excellent reviews of them.
Fenix TK20
Bigger
Warm light (yellowish tint)
Simple UI (2 modes)
Olight T25 Reg.
Smaller than TK20
Lots of different modes (I really like the UI of this one)
Neutral white
Reverse push button
Olight T25 Tact.
Smaller than TK20
Different UI than the Regular version
Less modes than the Regular version
Neutral white
Foward push button
Don't forget to have a look at the EagleTac P10A2. It may be fourth on this chart, but amoung the 2AA falshlight it's the one that's gonna give you the most lumens out the front (OTF). 173 lumens in fact as tested by one of the members here:https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/211402
Take your time to make the best choice for you... or buy them all
.:welcome:
Thank u gentlemen for pointing me in the right direction. In reviewing the very thorough charts I'm trying to put some of the terms into something I can visualize. For example the throw chart lists max throw and gives a lux value, how far is this in feet? I've been researching and will be choosing between one of the following: Fenix L2D premium Q5 and the Olight T25. The Olight claims to have technology that eliminates strobing effect?
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The "strobing" refers to the flicker induced by PWM (pulse-width modulated) output control - and neither Olight, Fenix nor Eagletac use it (they are all "current-controlled"). But it's largely irrelevant now - all the modern lights here that do use PWM do so at such a high frequency that it is not detectable by eye (i.e. >1kHz). It was an issue on some of the early PWM, but it's no longer a problem on any of these.
To relate throw/lux to feet is problematic. It depends on what consider sufficient lux any given point to see clearly - and at further distances, you would likely need more than up close.
Since light decays by an inverse-square law, I convert all my 1m lux measures into "throw" (i.e. squareroot lux). This allows you to linearly compare lights. So, a light that has a center peak "throw"of 70 would allow you to see an object twice as far a "throw" value of 35.
NightTime
Newly Enlightened
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armstrg3,
You might consider this fresh new thread to help you choose:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/215906
roymail
Enlightened
Just a couple of things to keep in mind...
1. when you get up around 150 +/- lumens, a variation of 25-50 lumens is difficult to perceive.
2. there's always a trade off... more brightness, less runtime (although it's lots better than it use to be). This is where a multi-mode (example: low, med, hi) can be helpful when you don't need to use the hi output all the time... therefore conserving battery power.
3. a white beam may look cool (pun intended) on a white wall, but in real life situations, it's not as useful as a more neutral or warmer tint. One of my favorite tint is a WG bin.
these are my experiences... YMMV!
1. when you get up around 150 +/- lumens, a variation of 25-50 lumens is difficult to perceive.
2. there's always a trade off... more brightness, less runtime (although it's lots better than it use to be). This is where a multi-mode (example: low, med, hi) can be helpful when you don't need to use the hi output all the time... therefore conserving battery power.
3. a white beam may look cool (pun intended) on a white wall, but in real life situations, it's not as useful as a more neutral or warmer tint. One of my favorite tint is a WG bin.
these are my experiences... YMMV!
KiwiMark
Flashlight Enthusiast
Just a couple of things to keep in mind...
1. when you get up around 150 +/- lumens, a variation of 25-50 lumens is difficult to perceive.
2. there's always a trade off... more brightness, less runtime (although it's lots better than it use to be). This is where a multi-mode (example: low, med, hi) can be helpful when you don't need to use the hi output all the time... therefore conserving battery power.
3. a white beam may look cool (pun intended) on a white wall, but in real life situations, it's not as useful as a more neutral or warmer tint. One of my favorite tint is a WG bin.
these are my experiences... YMMV!
There is much truth here!
1. - so true!
I have 180, 225, 230 & 250 Lumen output lights, they are all bright and the beam pattern makes more difference than the LED output.
2 - I love my Jetbeam IBS!
My favourites setup is a very low output to not hurt my night vision (and give a very long run time) + a useful medium that will do the job most of the time without running the batteries flat too fast or causing too much heat + maximum for when you just want all the light you can get.
3 - a white beam is good, if it IS white!
My ideal is for the light to be pure white (the closer to neutral the better), followed by slightly warm (if not completely neutral than warm is better than cool) and least ideal is blue tint. My worst light is my Fenix E01, the light is damn near purple! My Maglite with Malkoff drop-in is a very nice tint.
Olight T25-T (Tactical) now been added to the review. Hit your browser refresh button on the first page if the new runtimes/charts don't show up.
I haven't included a new picture of the light, since it looks identical to the regular T25, including all the markings. The only visual difference is the tailcap, which has the Tactical label:
As you can see, the tailcap is a bit longer on the Tactical model, with a switch/cover that protrudes further due to the forward clicky.
The main differences to the regular version are the revised output levels and interface. The T25-T is driven a bit harder at max than the regular version, but otherwise has exactly the same output/runtime efficiency.
UI-wise, the the regular version has 5 distinct output levels controlled by the head switch (i.e. loosen-tighten twist). Switching sequence is from Min to Max output, in a continuous loop. Light has a memory mode retaining the last level used. Light also has a high brightness rapid strobe, and a high and low brightness SOS (strobe/SOS modes accessed by rapidly clicking on the tailcap).
In contrast, the Tactical T25-T has only 3 output levels (basically levels 1, 3 and 5 of the regular version) also in a Min to Max sequence, with the tactical strobe and SOS mode following in the switching sequence. The reason for the interface change comes from the forward clicky, which allows for momentary-on and press to lock-on.
Basically, the I don't find the output issue to be a huge difference (although it does put the T25-T in the same range as the L2D/LD20). I would recommend choosing between the Olights based on their interface.
:wave:
Hit your browser refresh button on the first page if the new runtimes/charts don't show up.I haven't included a new picture of the light, since it looks identical to the regular T25, including all the markings. The only visual difference is the tailcap, which has the Tactical label:
As you can see, the tailcap is a bit longer on the Tactical model, with a switch/cover that protrudes further due to the forward clicky.
The main differences to the regular version are the revised output levels and interface. The T25-T is driven a bit harder at max than the regular version, but otherwise has exactly the same output/runtime efficiency.
UI-wise, the the regular version has 5 distinct output levels controlled by the head switch (i.e. loosen-tighten twist). Switching sequence is from Min to Max output, in a continuous loop. Light has a memory mode retaining the last level used. Light also has a high brightness rapid strobe, and a high and low brightness SOS (strobe/SOS modes accessed by rapidly clicking on the tailcap).
In contrast, the Tactical T25-T has only 3 output levels (basically levels 1, 3 and 5 of the regular version) also in a Min to Max sequence, with the tactical strobe and SOS mode following in the switching sequence. The reason for the interface change comes from the forward clicky, which allows for momentary-on and press to lock-on.
Basically, the I don't find the output issue to be a huge difference (although it does put the T25-T in the same range as the L2D/LD20). I would recommend choosing between the Olights based on their interface.
:wave:
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NightTime
Newly Enlightened
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From Max to Low with the T25 Regular version
?Did Olight make two versions of the T25 Reg?
Mine is from Low to Max, which coincides with Mev's results at light-reviews.com
BTW, thanks for adding the T25 Tactical. Always wanted to see the differences between those two versions :thumbsup:.
Sorry about that - the regular version is also from Low to Hi. Not sure why I had listed wrong the original review. Just fixed it, thanks.From Max to Low with the T25 Regular version
Did Olight make two versions of the T25 Reg?
NightTime
Newly Enlightened
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No problem selfbuilt, I wasn't sure anymore... I almost played with my T25 Reg. to make sure!
TONY M
Flashlight Enthusiast
This is due to alkalines high internal resistance making then unsuitable for high drain applications.
Good alkalines do store as much power as the best NIMH cells though.
They are great in devices that do not require much energy consumption like clocks, TV remotes etc, but not good in high power flashlights.
So there is really no benefit in using a regulated flashlight with alkaline batteries, only rechargeables right? Thanks again for the advice.
alohaluau
Newly Enlightened
Wow! An excellent review as usual, thanks selfbuilt! 
I started off with single and double AA sized battery "torches" (that's what we use in Oz
) due to convenience and availability, this thread is a good starting reference point, if not THE thread.
Kudos!
Cheers,
Luau
I started off with single and double AA sized battery "torches" (that's what we use in Oz
) due to convenience and availability, this thread is a good starting reference point, if not THE thread.Kudos!
Cheers,
Luau
HKJ
Flashaholic
With a regulated light your get constant output, as long as the batteries can supply the current. Alkaline will start at 1.5 volt and then decline, how fast the voltages decline will depend on the current draw. With regulation your get constant output but fast decline, with direct drive your get a slower decline (because the current draw goes down with the voltage) and a decreasing output. It is up to your what your prefer.
Another point to add to the above responses is that most of these lights are actually quite well regulated on alkalines at lower output levels. It is just max brightness that tends to suck on alkalines, since it is such a high drain. If I had time to do lower output modes settings, you'd see much better performance.
Although it's old now, my last 1AA round-up has some examples of lower mode alkaline tests.
