Any ideas about the Muyshondt Beagle?

[kaichu dento]

I keep on wanting one. I love the concept! The weight of these just tells me I will catch and release it though.

I want one in 7075 with the only copper being in the heatsinking areas.

 

[LogicalBeard]

I want one in 7075 with the only copper being in the heatsinking areas.

If you didn't know, the titanium model has a "solid copper heatsink that is

[FONT=&quot] polished and gold plated to create a superior thermal juncture to the copper core LED board". [/FONT]​

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

I want one in 7075 with the only copper being in the heatsinking areas.

I wonder if the reflector is machined out of copper to aid in heatsinking as it is in the Aeon flashlight. He doesn't say it is on his website, but the light is so heavy. I love it. I would get a Flieger in Aluminum Bronze.

Why is 7075 so popular for flashlights these days? I realize that 6061 doesn't seem to sound as flashy or as "prestigious"- 7075 is more expensive and more difficult to machine. It is harder and tougher and stronger. Hence the bragging rights. But 6061 is lighter weight, has greater electrical conductivity and greater thermal conductivity.

In my mind, the flashlight body and head materials are there to conduct electricity, pull heat off the electronics, and protect the inside of the light. A Beagle or a Flieger made from 6061 would be more than strong enough to park a car on top of and have the light be okay except for some little dents where it was up against concrete. It wouldn't look museum quality anymore, but I bet you it would still function 100%.

 

[kaichu dento]

Why is 7075 so popular for flashlights these days? I realize that 6061 doesn't seem to sound as flashy or as "prestigious"- 7075 is more expensive and more difficult to machine. It is harder and tougher and stronger. Hence the bragging rights. But 6061 is lighter weight, has greater electrical conductivity and greater thermal conductivity.

In my mind, the flashlight body and head materials are there to conduct electricity, pull heat off the electronics, and protect the inside of the light. A Beagle or a Flieger made from 6061 would be more than strong enough to park a car on top of and have the light be okay except for some little dents where it was up against concrete. It wouldn't look museum quality anymore, but I bet you it would still function 100%.

Additional durability is why many of us are liking their light made from 7075, and remember, titanium looks terrible on paper for conductivity of both heat and electricity , but performs just fine in the real world.
Bragging rights are overrated and while they matter much to some, not at all to others like me and I'm not as interested in parking my car on top of my lights as I am about the integrity of their finishes.

 

[trojansteel]

Trojansteel, how do you feel about the Boss vs the Beagle as far as tint, beam pattern, color rendering and brightness?

I actually returned my beagle, but, as you can see in the picture, the beagle was significantly warmer. I'm not an expert as to color rendering.

The boss at max is significantly brighter than max beagle. I also thought the first three levels of Beagle flood were redundant. And Levels 4 and 5 too close in brightness. I prefer the Boss's 3 distinct brightness levels following amber. (Of course the boss is fully programmable too).

As for beam pattern.... the moonlight (L1) mode on the beagle is essentially flawless. Especially when compared to my Boss with the stainless steel bezel. The boss moonlight emits from an off center amber, so the bezel actually alters that beam pattern. Some might care about this, but in practice, I feel a jacked up amber moonlight beam pattern is much better than a perfect white pattern.

I think the boss beam pattern has more flood than the Beagle since the peripheral ring of lights don't do much after several yards. The Boss has way more flood than an HDS.

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

I actually returned my beagle, but, as you can see in the picture, the beagle was significantly warmer. I'm not an expert as to color rendering.

How come you returned the Beagle? I thought the spread between setting 4 and 5 is quite a step up in brightness. That central emitter jumps from 95 lumens up to 365 lumens. For me, the Beagle is literally all about the flood ring and the fact that it is essentially two flashlights rolled into one. It's an excellent mule and a traditional reflector light in one.

You mentioned the boss being brighter than the Beagle. Are you running the Nichias in the Boss? Any idea what the runtime is at those settings or do you know what you have the wattage set at for that brightness setting? Also one last thing, any idea how long it takes for the thermal protection to start bumping the brightness down, or if it does at all at that setting? Okay one more question, since you where talking about beam pattern, what optic is in the boss?

I'm still very interested in how the boss compares and contrasts with the beagle. I think they could make a pretty slick pair.

 

[trojansteel]

How come you returned the Beagle? I thought the spread between setting 4 and 5 is quite a step up in brightness. That central emitter jumps from 95 lumens up to 365 lumens. For me, the Beagle is literally all about the flood ring and the fact that it is essentially two flashlights rolled into one. It's an excellent mule and a traditional reflector light in one.

You mentioned the boss being brighter than the Beagle. Are you running the Nichias in the Boss? Any idea what the runtime is at those settings or do you know what you have the wattage set at for that brightness setting? Also one last thing, any idea how long it takes for the thermal protection to start bumping the brightness down, or if it does at all at that setting? Okay one more question, since you where talking about beam pattern, what optic is in the boss?

I'm still very interested in how the boss compares and contrasts with the beagle. I think they could make a pretty slick pair.

I can't answer all your questions. I bought both at the same time knowing I would return one of them. My boss has triple 219c.

I felt the beagle just had too many modes. There's never a real situation where L2 preferable to L3, or L4 vs L5. The 5 levels seem redundant. In reality, I feel I only need a distinct moonlight, medium, high.

The boss has the ultimate moonlight with the red or amber. And the Boss Low is basically any other lights medium, the Boss medium basically a high. I seldom use the Boss on max. I know the Beagle is electronically very impressive, but from a practical standpoint, I just prefer the boss.

Ergonomically, I also really didn't like the beagle clip; The four corners are very sharp.

The threads on the boss are sooo robust, and so smooth on my brass example.

 

[LogicalBeard]

I canÂ't answer all your questions. I bought both at the same time knowing I would return one of them. My boss has triple 219c.

I felt the beagle just had too many modes. ThereÂ's never a real situation where L2 preferable to L3, or L4 vs L5. The 5 levels seem redundant. In reality, I feel I only need a distinct moonlight, medium, high.

The boss has the ultimate moonlight with the red or amber. And the Boss Low is basically any other lights medium, the Boss medium basically a high. I seldom use the Boss on max. I know the Beagle is electronically very impressive, but from a practical standpoint, I just prefer the boss.

Ergonomically, I also really didnÂ't like the beagle clip; The four corners are very sharp.

The threads on the boss are sooo robust, and so smooth on my brass example.

Great input. Sounds like the Boss is a grail for you! I'm the opposite on my preferences. L1 is a great moonlight for me when I'm in the car or around the house to preserve night vision or reading. L2 is a great step up for some more light navigating or looking for stuff in dark rooms/spaces. L3 is another nice bump for maximum flood; in truth, I would like a tad more lumens on L3 but I'm guessing they would be overdriven/inefficient any higher. Then L4 is another nice punch to view stuff farther away yet still provide good run-times. And then of course L5 to see even farther. I have a use for every mode and couldn't give up a single level. Heck, I would even add a 30 second turbo for L6! I use mine indoors mostly. For throw I have a Manker Mk35 that makes a great team. Sounds like you use Boss/flashlights outdoors a bit? Has anyone tested one with an integrated sphere yet?

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

I felt the beagle just had too many modes. There's never a real situation where L2 preferable to L3, or L4 vs L5. The 5 levels seem redundant. In reality, I feel I only need a distinct moonlight, medium, high.


Ergonomically, I also really didn't like the beagle clip; The four corners are very sharp.

The threads on the boss are sooo robust, and so smooth on my brass example.

I have to agree completely about the pocket clip. It is pretty angular and the corners are still almost yes, sharp.

As far as level 4 versus level 5 on the Beagle, it's a big runtime difference. Level 4 gets 2.66 times the runtime of mode 5. To be honest, if I'm not outside in the open, I find level 5 to be excessively bright especially for indoor use. And I feel a 45 minute runtime is just too short. As such I tend to treat level 5 as sort of a "turbo" mode and it only gets used in relatively short bursts.

Are your settings on the boss stock, or did you set them yourself?

 

[trojansteel]

Are your settings on the boss stock, or did you set them yourself?

Stock RLMH

 

[LogicalBeard]

Has anyone done any runtime tests? I did some quick and dirty amp readings with a Fluke 117 and the Beagle battery at 4.16 volts.
Level one: 12 mah
level two: 49 mah
level three: 230 mah
level four: 407 mah
level five: 1217 mah

 

[thenikjones]

I have a Beagle and am in the UK. Got the Muyshondt battery too - the red AW is higher capacity and a lot cheaper.

Got my prototype in June and it compared well with Spy and Haiku. Now the proper dark is here, it is not as good. I have had it as my EDC for the last months and it is too smooth, not as nice as the Haiku. 5 levels controlled for a button is far inferior to the control knob on the SPY. The Beagle runtime is not great, for a 75 minute run I needed to change batteries. I think level 4is best as you get the full flood and a bit of throw - cycling between 3 and 4 is a royal PITA so stick with level 4, which drains the cell faster. Getting GITD on the Beagle is a pain too, the rubber cover of the Haiku is easy to get a Glow version off, the SPY has tritium slots milled into it by default.

Never considered a Beagle vs Flieger as I already have a SPY so why get a Flieger? I am thinking of getting a BOSS so will be interested in comparing it. The built in Glow o ring is a nice feature.

EDIT the Beagle reverse clicky is an awful feature. If I am on level 3 or 4 and want a quick boost, I then have to cycle through the modes to get back to 3 or 4 again. With a forward clicky I could lightly press to get the boost and not fanny around through the stages. When out running, this cycling is another royal PITA. It is also a surprisingly dense lump of metal in the hand. Solid and small, but heavy.

 

[LogicalBeard]

I have a Beagle and am in the UK. Got the Muyshondt battery too - the red AW is higher capacity and a lot cheaper.

Got my prototype in June and it compared well with Spy and Haiku. Now the proper dark is here, it is not as good. I have had it as my EDC for the last months and it is too smooth, not as nice as the Haiku. 5 levels controlled for a button is far inferior to the control knob on the SPY. The Beagle runtime is not great, for a 75 minute run I needed to change batteries. I think level 4is best as you get the full flood and a bit of throw - cycling between 3 and 4 is a royal PITA so stick with level 4, which drains the cell faster. Getting GITD on the Beagle is a pain too, the rubber cover of the Haiku is easy to get a Glow version off, the SPY has tritium slots milled into it by default.

Never considered a Beagle vs Flieger as I already have a SPY so why get a Flieger? I am thinking of getting a BOSS so will be interested in comparing it. The built in Glow o ring is a nice feature.

EDIT the Beagle reverse clicky is an awful feature. If I am on level 3 or 4 and want a quick boost, I then have to cycle through the modes to get back to 3 or 4 again. With a forward clicky I could lightly press to get the boost and not fanny around through the stages. When out running, this cycling is another royal PITA. It is also a surprisingly dense lump of metal in the hand. Solid and small, but heavy.

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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Thanks for the comments. I have a few questions:[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]The prototype was better in what ways?[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Too smooth as in the texture of the production model is too slippery?[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Which Spy model do you have?[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]The BOSS is such a different animal but I would love a comparison. [/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]What forward clicky flashlight light do you have that you were describing? [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]My favorite UI is the Toykeeper firmware on the Manker E14. Same UI/reverse clicky as the Beagle except a long press lets you go back a level. [/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Do you use your flashlights mostly indoors, outdoors, or an even mix?[/FONT][/FONT]

 

[InvisibleFrodo]

I'm also confused about the mode cycling comments you made.

The way I understand, you're saying you can press the button momentarily to momentarily increase brightness?

On my forward clicky lights like the Haiku, if I'm in mode 2 and I want to get to mode 3, I have to click the light, so it can be turned off, then a brief off cycle to switch modes. With the Haiku, I have no choice but to go through mode 3 in order to get to mode 1 from mode 2.

With the beagle, if I'm in mode 4 and I want to get to mode 3, I can go through 5, 1, and 2, but I don't have to. More often then not, I will lightly hold the clicky for about 2 seconds which will make light go straight into mode 1 from mode 4 (or any other mode) then it's two quick bumps up to 3.

Yes, doing something like switching back and forth between setting 3 and 4 is easiest with a rotary knob like the spy. I can't disagree with that.

 

[thenikjones]

The prototype is the one I have. The shape is a simple tube. The knurling is nicely done, but it is still basically a cylinder. The Haiku is far nicer to hold, and the flared end makes a cigar hold very comfy

The SPY is XM-L2. It is the last of the engraved ones Data sold. 6 modes you can program as you wish -the more modes you have, the more useful programming is.

If the Beagle was a forward clicky then I would lightly press the button to get the higher mode, then release to go back to the current mode (I assume). As it is, I am doing a lot of cycling. Gets very wearing. Casually going between, say, modes 3 and 5 is not fun.

Use is a mix of indoors and out. For indoors, the dim modes are critical and the Beagle has as bright a dim as I want -the Haiku is too bright. For outside use, the Beagle is not as good a thrower as the XP-G2 Haiku and the SPY is not a thrower but 3300mA generates a wall of light that goes further than the Beagle level 5 does.

Around the house, anything will do. My niche use is running in the dark, a torch in the hand is a good adjunct to a headlamp. For this the SPY would be ideal except for long runs, where battery changes are a PITA (the Vault cap would help here). The Haiku outlasts the Beagle, I fancy trying a BOSS to see how it compares.

 

[archimedes]

....
If the Beagle was a forward clicky then I would lightly press the button to get the higher mode, then release to go back to the current mode (I assume)....

This is not how forward clicky switches work.

 

[staticx57]

You're describing a two stage switch not a forward clicky. Forward clicky cycles through modes while the light is off by momentarily turning it on. Reverse clicky cycles through modes while on while momentary turning it off. Neither would accomplish a momentary turbo.

 

[thenikjones]

My apologies. It is not really a momentary turbo I want, it is the ability to access the next level with a press, then release to stay at same level. I am sure it is not impossible. If you regularly want to switch modes - which I do when outside - then the Beagle is awkward.

If Indid not have a SPY then maybe this would be less of an issue. I do, though, and that control knob is fantastic.

 

[archimedes]

I am still having trouble understanding precisely what you are describing for UI ... could you give a specific example of a flashlight (make and model) with this exact user interface ?

 

[LogicalBeard]

The prototype is the one I have. The shape is a simple tube. The knurling is nicely done, but it is still basically a cylinder. The Haiku is far nicer to hold, and the flared end makes a cigar hold very comfy

The SPY is XM-L2. It is the last of the engraved ones Data sold. 6 modes you can program as you wish -the more modes you have, the more useful programming is.

If the Beagle was a forward clicky then I would lightly press the button to get the higher mode, then release to go back to the current mode (I assume). As it is, I am doing a lot of cycling. Gets very wearing. Casually going between, say, modes 3 and 5 is not fun.

Use is a mix of indoors and out. For indoors, the dim modes are critical and the Beagle has as bright a dim as I want -the Haiku is too bright. For outside use, the Beagle is not as good a thrower as the XP-G2 Haiku and the SPY is not a thrower but 3300mA generates a wall of light that goes further than the Beagle level 5 does.

Around the house, anything will do. My niche use is running in the dark, a torch in the hand is a good adjunct to a headlamp. For this the SPY would be ideal except for long runs, where battery changes are a PITA (the Vault cap would help here). The Haiku outlasts the Beagle, I fancy trying a BOSS to see how it compares.

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]I think I understand better now. [/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]By "proper dark" you mean it gets dark sooner and you are able to make a better comparison. Muyshondt has a "darkwell" finish I thought you were referencing. [/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]While running you don't like the cylinder shape. A lanyard around the clip might work if that was your only grievance. [/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]I'm guessing you have the 005 model? I was wondering if you had the tri with the aspheric. [/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Ah you were just describing a UI you would like in theory. If a light press would give you a momentary boost, what method would you like to cycle through modes? Maybe a full quick click? Sounds interesting. Somebody should write the program for that. [/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]What mode do you use the Beagle in while running? 4? If so, does it last the stated two hours?[/FONT][/FONT]