Ballistol in machining world anyone ?

[tino_ale]

Hi all,

I've been wondering, seems like Ballistol is a well regarded all around cleaner/lube/protectant in the weapons world.
Some swear only by it.

I was wondering if it has it's place in the machining world.

The marketing pitch

Like that it sounds like the perfect toolroom general cleaner, rust preventive, headache-free product that has no problem with wood, rubber, o-rings, plastics, etc.

Would you recommend it for precision instruments care (like calipers, mikes etc) ?
Would you recommend it for lathe general cleaning/protect care ? (not including ways/gearbox lubricating that have specific oils for them)
Would it be a valid option for preventing rust on hand tools, drill bits... kinda something one could spray around without too much thinking ?

Any input appreciated

Cheers

 

[KITROBASKIN]

I love the stuff. It can kind of 'crust up' though. Don't know if that would work with high level precision equipment.

 

[NoNotAgain]

I've used automatic transmission fluid for precision tool protection for years. Doesn't harden up and is a great detergent. Also place camphor blocks inside the tool box to keep items from corroding.

As for lubricant/preservatives, on a lathe, milling machine or machine vises, CRC SP-350. Long term storage SP-400 which semi-hardens to a waxy surface. Removes with Varsol aka mineral spirits. Doesn't smell as bad as diesel or kerosene and has a lower vapor pressure.

As for a all around product, good BoeLube. Non-toxic, can be used for drilling and tapping on all metals and is a great o-ring lubricant. Made by OreLube corp.

 

[mcnair55]

I would search out products made for trade use and save money.Kitchen sink users favourite Ballistol like WD-40.

 

[mahoney]

Ballistol dissolves copper and a few other metals, be mindful of this when using it.

 

[tino_ale]

Actually I have tried leaving some to evaporate a few days and it reduced itself to some sort of very light gel, it did not gum up or hardened. But maybe I did not leave it long enough ?

The firearm people say the copper dissolving power is actually dubious.

The problem with many lube/protectant is that they either don't blend well with plastic/rubber/o-rings ; harden/crust/gum up ; are dangerous to people ; are poor rust protectant

One could think it's easy to find an all-around, spray on everything you want, "natural" product that fits the bill bit it actually is not !

 

[NoNotAgain]

Actually I have tried leaving some to evaporate a few days and it reduced itself to some sort of very light gel, it did not gum up or hardened. But maybe I did not leave it long enough ?

The firearm people say the copper dissolving power is actually dubious.

The problem with many lube/protectant is that they either don't blend well with plastic/rubber/o-rings ; harden/crust/gum up ; are dangerous to people ; are poor rust protectant

The problem with most petroleum distillates is that they have a high vapor pressure which lead to the evaporation rate. If there are no additional corrosion inhibitors added, you've got un-protected metal.

The CLP products if left overnight in the bore of a rifle and removed the following day with a clean twill patch will show a slight blue discoloration. Nothing like using an ammonia based copper remover, but still does remove copper.

For Mil-L-907, anti-seize compound, I use to have to perform a copper corrosion test where a strip of polished copper was partially immersed in the compound and heated for 24 hours. There could be not evidence of green, pits or dark staining. Until the last couple of years, there was only one manufacturer that was qualified to produce.