BessieBenny's Budget LED (DX/KD etc) Flashlights Review Roundup (Part XII)

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Disco-Dave

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Akoray k-106

Looking for some help/information here i have an akoray k - 106 it says on DX that its 200 lumens, it runs on a 1 aa battery im using an energizer lithium at the moment but theres no way the light can be 200 lumens my fenix tk11 blows it away big time and thats only rated at 225 lumens on high mode. So i dont really understand it lol

Dont get me rong its a fantastic little light i was camping 2 weeks ago and had a few dereelights my fenix and the akoray and the fenix and akoray lasted longer than the rest.

And on that note im also looking for another small light than runs on 1aa maybe a touch brighter if possible with not bad runtime as this little one lasts quite good on one battery i was looking at the fenix ld10 is it worth it ?
 

mfm

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Re: Akoray k-106

1AA lights seem to max out in the ~115L ballpark, no where close to 200L.

AKOray K-106 is known to be dim on 1.2-1.5V , so it's not a very good comparision. JETBeam Jet-I V3.0 gives 160 lumens on AA and 240 lumens on 14500. There's lots of cheaper lights brighter than the K-106 on 1.2-1.5v too.

Got my new Ultrafire C3 from DX yesterday, exactly one month after it was shipped (not too impressed with that). No idea on the brightness since it had major flickering. I probably have to put in an o-ring before the lens and remove most of the solder points on the pill, but I don't have a big workshop stocked with different sized o-rings so will take until next year until I can try to fix it (or just throw it away now instead of ordering o-rings from DX, would be the most rational decision).

I wonder why so many people buy this light when it's so crappy, the A10 is much better. I assume the lights based on the same body (like Aurora SH0030) are also wrongly manufactured without the lens o-ring?
 
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CampingLED

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Funny. I bought 3 x C3s recently and no problems. I can also drive 10km in any wind direction from home (in South Africa) and buy O-rings. That includes a broken O-ring on a SF light after only using it three months. The C3 is a great light for the price and you should contact the supplier if you have a problem.
 

PlayboyJoeShmoe

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I had to make contact rings out of paper clips for one AA light and I have to use a magnet on top of the battery for another to get them to make good contact.

So what? Big deal!

Now bust an o-ring in something like a LumaPower ConneXion and you have trouble!

I somewhat expect that I'll have to tinker with cheap lights.
 

mfm

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Funny. I bought 3 x C3s recently and no problems. I can also drive 10km in any wind direction from home (in South Africa) and buy O-rings. That includes a broken O-ring on a SF light after only using it three months. The C3 is a great light for the price and you should contact the supplier if you have a problem.

Or I could just work during the time it takes to find a shop who sells o-rings, find out if they have the correct size and to fiddle with the soldering iron and drill, and instead buy a JETBeam or Fenix for the money I made during the same amount of time.

If the C3 is still P4 then it's a crap light for the price (I bought it to see if they upgraded the emitter and the driver like someone wrote on DX): outdated emitter, bad manufacturing (it is designed to have an o-ring behind the lens, and is known to have lots of problems), not "watertight"/splash safe because of the previous problem, too small and too hard click button (much better on the A10 or the romisen RC-29), not HA-III anodizing, etc. There's lots of DX/KD lights for $1-2 more (or $1 less) that looks better and probably are.

Wrote a DX Service Request but I don't have too much hope for it.

I had to make contact rings out of paper clips for one AA light and I have to use a magnet on top of the battery for another to get them to make good contact.

So what? Big deal!

Now bust an o-ring in something like a LumaPower ConneXion and you have trouble!

I somewhat expect that I'll have to tinker with cheap lights.

Sounds like you bought some poop lights. I have higher standards, especially on lights I want to give away.

Would be some gift if the recipient had to fiddle with spacers or paper clips.
 

Coaster

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Or I could just work during the time it takes to find a shop who sells o-rings, find out if they have the correct size and to fiddle with the soldering iron and drill, and instead buy a JETBeam or Fenix for the money I made during the same amount of time.

I think you should just give up on ordering anything from any of the China shops if you're not willing to fiddle with things. :shrug:

I've had fairly good luck, but just today I got in a Solarforce L2m that has some issue at the pill. :oops: Do I feel ripped off, or disappointed since it took well over a month to get it, not really. I just plan on it taking somewhere in the 6-10 week range to actually arrive at my door. I also figure that about 20% of items with more than 2 parts will need some level of tweaking / repair.
 

bessiebenny

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Well, I never had any issues with Romisen ones if I remember correctly.
Some Ultrafire/Aurora/Trustfire, I've had issues with. (contact issues generally)

I've come to a point where I can sorta tell what is good and bad just by looking at the specs and pics of the flashlight on DK/KD etc. =P
So these days, I'm not risking as much on what I buy as before. I also don't have the dosh to throw around so I guess that's the main reason.

This thread is now well over 2 years old. I don't have as much time reviewing flashlights as much. (family is growing..)
But I'm still buying some new lights as the flashlights are now cheaper than ever.
Many are also excellent. Quality definitely improved over the years even in the sub-$15 range.

With these budget branded lights, you get "more" than what you pay for usually.
But due to that, there is a bit of risk that the quality isn't all the same. =P
 

shark_za

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Re: thinking about Romisen RC-F4..

how do you know the current ones have a forward clicky?

I'm not saying you're wrong, I'd just like some more proof/explanation.


Er, I bought one from DX in September and its got a forward clicky, right here in my hand. "proof"
I would not be surprised to see this is a Q5 already as its mega bright.
 

nullstring

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Re: thinking about Romisen RC-F4..

Er, I bought one from DX in September and its got a forward clicky, right here in my hand. "proof"
I would not be surprised to see this is a Q5 already as its mega bright.
It's just weird because reviews that were made in november disagree with you.

Do you have a black or gray one?

EDIT:
Maybe I am getting ahead of myself with the Q5 and the modes. Maybe I should just buy the RC-F4, and if I feel I need to mod it, I can always buy things later.
I'd just hate to have to pay $6 for a tactical switch.
That, and buying from shiningbeam means it'll be here in a week instead of 3..
 
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rje58

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Re: thinking about Romisen RC-F4..

My experience has been more like "a few days instead of 4-6 weeks or more..."

But it's hard to turn away from some of those low prices, for me too!

That, and buying from shiningbeam means it'll be here in a week instead of 3..
 

mfm

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But I did not "gift" those lights. Nor do I use them on a daily basis.

That's what my Fenix, LumaPower and EagleTac lights are for.

So you just buy them to fiddle with them and then put them in a drawer? Sounds like wasted money...

I think you should just give up on ordering anything from any of the China shops if you're not willing to fiddle with things. :shrug:

If "fiddling" includes sourcing replacement parts and repairing in some workshop just because the light is wrongly manufactured then yes...

I actually have several chinese $15-$20 models that work fine, and I could buy more of the same and have them working just fine (and I have). But I buy new/untested models just to try them and to find out if they are good for cheap gifts.

I also have no problem with complaining about the lemon lights that doesn't work properly, since there are many cheap lights that DO work fine.
 

PlayboyJoeShmoe

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Hold on there pard.

I don't know for sure where the AA light that needed contact help is. I may have sent it with Christmas giveaway last year. I've heard no complaint about it.

The light that needs a magnet is a Romisen RC-X5. It can be 1x123 or 2xAA. There is a ridge in there that stops a 123 before it can make good contact. The magnet stays in the light.

It is a side click one level light and that is why I don't use it all that much.

I have several other Romisen, Ultrafire, SolarForce and Tank007 lights that never needed anything.

The more I think about it the more I'm sure that AA light is gone.

I'm not disappointed with any light I got from DX. Some just needed some tweaking.
 

XRAYBoY

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-Kaidomain Ultrafire C1 led Cree XPG-R5 Review,measures,beamshots,etc...

281120092921.jpg
:duck:
 
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shark_za

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Re: thinking about Romisen RC-F4..

It's just weird because reviews that were made in november disagree with you.

Do you have a black or gray one?

EDIT:
Maybe I am getting ahead of myself with the Q5 and the modes. Maybe I should just buy the RC-F4, and if I feel I need to mod it, I can always buy things later.
I'd just hate to have to pay $6 for a tactical switch.
That, and buying from shiningbeam means it'll be here in a week instead of 3..

I looked on DX site and there are no reviews from after September when I bought a grey one.

Its called DX lottery.
The spec on the site shows reverse clicky so if you buy it and its reverse you cant really ask for your money back. You will "probably" get a forward clicky if you buy but you cant be sure.

My orders from DX have been interesting to say the least.
Ordered RC-N3 expecting 3 modes and got single mode. (A plus for me)
Ordered a few black and grey RC-G2's, black ones that came with new LED and driver are yucky. (A negative)
Expected reverse clicky and got forward on RC-F4. (A plus for me)
Ordered a forward clicky from shiningbeam, that order along with 2x torches vanished into thin air, does not exist according to my customs or post office. :sick: :mecry::ohgeez:
Expected P4 C3 Stainless Stainless and got a well finished Q5. (Plus)
Got the L2m Spiderfire/Ultrafire/Solarforce partsbin special and I am very happy with them too.

My only ZAR 15.2c (US 2c) worth is that the RC-F4 is a great little torch but the body walls are thin and ring with a tinny echo when knocked. The threads are thin and while it is very workable it does not feel solid or hard wearing.
If you don't have a RC-N3 get that one first, its not as bright but seems better made and really handy to use 1xRCR123 all the way to alkaline AA's.
 

nullstring

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DR_DEUCE

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what do you make of ULTRAFIRE'S..?

HI boys,...been here a few weeks and I haven't seen much on the Ultrafire's. They seem to be low cost, but Don't know how well they'll hold up, or what you guys think of them. They are cheap enough to discard after they break. I got a 501 and 502, seem to be ok. One is the 5 mode 250lm. Definetely not up to the SF quality, specifically in the threads of both ends.
WHATS YOUR TAKE????????????
 

Superdave

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Re: what do you make of ULTRAFIRE'S..?

I gave a WF 501c to my 10 yr old son to replace his beat up 3AA Mag LED.. he likes the mag better.. lol
 

qwertyydude

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I have an Ultrafire 502b and it is the worst quality light I've gotten from DX, generally I've noticed Ultrafire quality being hit and miss because several other lights like the Ultrafire recoil to be high quality. But Romisen is the brand you want to get, as all my Romisens have been perfect right out of the envelope, DX only ships in envelopes so you may have some trouble if you ordered a delicate item. But if you're going to get Romisen just go to shiningbeam.com since you'll get it quicker and it will have better components like a later model led and forward clickie it'll cost less than buying the M4 from DX and also the better drop in and forward clickie.
 
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