Bringing my E2E back to life.

kelmo

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 27, 2004
Messages
3,092
Location
Sacramento
My house light is a E2e with an MN02 LA. Just scored on a bunch of Streamlight/Surefire primaries and I'm burning through my old stock. This time of year is incan season!!!
 

bykfixer

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
20,478
Location
Dust in the Wind
Nothin' beats that old SureFire module but....

I find the lumens factory stuff is a pretty good substitute.

And a 1amp Tana singLED in 3000 flavor is outstanding at providing a nice pre-krypton beam tint. Set it to start on 25% and you have a real winner.

I keep oem in my olive 4 flats, lumens factory in my clickys and a Tana in my beater.
 

fivemega

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 28, 2003
Messages
5,532
Location
California
I've not met a single cell incan yet with that nice white overdriven color temp we all know and love. Close, but not quite. Nothing wrong with a bit of yellow though.
A single IMR 26650 cell will slightly overdrive an Strion bulb in bi-pin socket. Obviously needs custom body but run time will be way longer that any other single cell.


I find 3V incan output to be about the most used/useful output, so I run 1600mAh NiMh 2/3A cells in my E2e, with a couple magnet spacers, using Tad A3712. Great runtime and very steady output.
To run a 3.7 volt bulb, your best choice is single 16650 (2500) as long as fits in E2e tube.
Voltage under load is still higher than pair of 2/3A and capacity also higher.
 
Last edited:

night.hoodie

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 6, 2014
Messages
717
Location
Lost City of Atlanta
To run a 3.7 volt bulb, your best choice is single 16650 (2500) as long as fits in E2e tube.
Voltage under load is still higher than pair of 2/3A and capacity also higher.

You're right, of course, that would be more efficient, give better runtime... and I do at times run similar setup, but then if the light is too bright, I don't use it as much at night. If I could find a more efficient lamp for "3V," or 2 eneloops I'd run it. I know of Lumens Factory HO-E1A 3V, but its too bright, too... I run that with 1xAA. I know it is almost sacrilege to underdrive lamps, but I'm ok with it. I wish there was an efficient yet dim 2.8V 0.6A lamp I could source.
 

thermal guy

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 28, 2007
Messages
10,004
Location
ny
I went with the EO-4. 190 lumens 3.7 volts. It looks EXACTLY like the stock p60 from sf.So when I want to run it it won't cost me an arm and a leg.

I also got th EO-6 200 lumens 6 volt. Now that has the same throw/output imo but with a hotspot 4 times the size. I like that one as well.
 
Last edited:

bykfixer

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
20,478
Location
Dust in the Wind
Man, I remember before my first E reading all this E2, E2 stuff over and over and was like "what is the big deal here?"

One day a second hand E2d arrived and I thought "look at the cute little... (Pushed on button) Holy Retina Scorch Batman, now I see whatz the big deal".

I like to imagine a time when a policeman was shown an E2 way back in the days when a 6D light was required to have a good out put.
Pushes twisty button and grins ear to ear saying "mwew-ah-ah-ah-ah, those creeps aren't going to know what hit 'em".
Back then the word "creeps" was used a lot.
(Watched a bunch of 80's cop movies yesterday and they all used the word creeps a lot)
 
Last edited:

thermal guy

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 28, 2007
Messages
10,004
Location
ny
When I bought my e2e back in 2004-2005? I asked the sales guy how it compared to a min mag. He just laughed and said you'll see. When I got it I turned it on and got exactly what he meant. What the hell did I know back then.

Oh and the 80s were the best especially for the movies
 

AVService

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
Messages
2,163
Still Love the Oveready Triple Copper E2E myself!

c33b08f00a32ef14a9cca9ab5afe3529.jpg
f2e04f62f02d49ab397703b31af2ffe0.jpg


I also have a few Malkoff M61n & w in varying output levels and they make a terrific light for me,I have long since realized I am willing to sacrifice output for runtime in general use but then that is where lights like the can copper triple come in too.
 
Last edited:

novice

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 19, 2006
Messages
1,033
bykfixer,
It seems like it wasn't that long ago (and that is a phrase that we seniors use a lot...) that you had posted about waiting for your first e-series SF incan to arrive in the mail. Holy moley...
 

bykfixer

Flashaholic
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
20,478
Location
Dust in the Wind
One day it rained E series lights.

When that first one arrived, an E2D it was game on for about a month. At some point a few Vital Gear samples were added and some Lego took place as well.

My favorite E is still that E2D, but I found a body with a 2 way clip and installed a singLED.
 

thermal guy

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 28, 2007
Messages
10,004
Location
ny
I think it's the form factor.the E2d/e2e is just the right size to put in a pocket and plenty bright enough to work. It was my first quality light I bought. And on that note is there a way to date Surefire Lights by There serial number? I can't really remember what year I got it in.
 

archimedes

Flashaholic
Joined
Nov 12, 2010
Messages
15,780
Location
CONUS, top left
.... And on that note is there a way to date Surefire Lights by There serial number? I can't really remember what year I got it in.

No, those numbers are not strictly sequential, in the sense that might be expected.

There were some very old posts discussing this. Various parts were made in different facilities simultaneously, and later assembled "out of order" , among other issues.
 

thermal guy

Flashaholic
Joined
Jan 28, 2007
Messages
10,004
Location
ny
Oh. Ok well I got it just when sf was changing from the teardrop model I'm thinking 2004-2005. That about the time they did this? Maybe even 2003.
 
Top