Changing LED Tint With Filters

Swedpat

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VERY nice result Derek Dean!
So it's actually possible to remove greenish tint with a filter! I want that to my Fenix TK50. It's a GREAT thrower but the tint is the most greenish I have ever experienced, so I hardly never use it anymore...
 
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Diablo_331

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The filters will make it a whole new light. They did wonders for my Eiger and Oveready Triple Neutral (which,btw, isn't close to my definition of neutral)...Well it is now..:)
 

Blue72

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The filters will make it a whole new light. They did wonders for my Eiger and Oveready Triple Neutral (which,btw, isn't close to my definition of neutral)...Well it is now..:)

how did you fit the filter on the eiger?
 

Blue72

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Anyone dare compare their best fitted filter flashlight to a high CRI flashlight. I think it would make a great challange!
 

Got Lumens?

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Anyone dare compare their best fitted filter flashlight to a high CRI flashlight. I think it would make a great challange!
All I have are Cools, Neutrals, and Warms, No HCRI's,yet. Look forward to seeing a comparison between a cool filitered and HCRI.
So far I have only tried the Lee diffusers #252 Eighth White and 452 Sixteenth White on a Spark SL-6 740NW. I have the frosted lense for the Spark SL-5 190NW, and it works very well, but you lose too much useful light with it. The Lee filters allow you to smooth it out a little, or fully with the variety in the swatch book. Thanks Derek for sharing this thread. This is fun and cool.
GL
 

Cataract

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Anyone dare compare their best fitted filter flashlight to a high CRI flashlight. I think it would make a great challange!

Still haven't had the time to play with my filter book, but my brand new H51C is definitely not quite on par with my older Quark neutral (Q3) and my TK20. I get the best color rendition with my TK20 (and I'm not selling it ever!). I'll try to find some time to play with the book and see if I can get my SC51c give me the same color rendition as my TK20 and then try to get other lights close to that.
 

Derek Dean

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Anyone dare compare their best fitted filter flashlight to a high CRI flashlight. I think it would make a great challange!
I would love to see this.

As we've discussed before in this thread, I don't think Hi CRI by itself is a good gauge of how well a light will render color, at least in the typical way we tend to think of it, and in that sense I think most of my filtered lights would win in a blind side-by-side shoot off, especially if they were going against a Hi CRI light in the 3000 K range.

If somebody wants to loan me a Hi CRI light, I'd be happy to shoot photos comparing it to my filtered Fenix LD01, Jetbeam Bk-135a, NovaTac 120P, and Zebralight SC600.

Somebody more knowledgeable than myself would have to design the criteria by which we judge the results, but I think it would be fun and informative.

Actually, now that you've got me thinking about it, I wonder if the best of both worlds would be a Hi CRI light, say 93 CRI which is generally available in the 3000k range, that is then filtered to remove the excess warm tint. Hmmmmm........
 

gcbryan

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I wonder if that is even possible from a practical aspect? Seems like it makes scientific sense to filter a higher color temp light to a lower one, but to go from a lower to a higher? There is probably no real difference filtering warms and cools, but it just doesn't seem like it would work very well for whatever reason. Would be an interesting experiment.

Somebody around here with filters has got to have some old incandescent lights lying around to be the warm-tint guinea pigs :thumbsup:

I think (?) maybe you can but you might be left with a 30 lumen light :)
 

Derek Dean

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ITPython, don't give up so easily. It's not as hard as you make it out to be. I've cut out quite a few of these, and all it takes is a bit of patience and some time.

First, you will need a sharp pair of scissors. I'm too clumsy to use as knife, as I'd just end up cutting myself.

After you've picked out the filter, simply place the flashlight bezel down on the filter and using a pen, draw a circle around the outside of the bezel onto to the filter, then cut out a small square that contains that circle.

What you do next will depend on whether you're going to mount the filter inside or outside of the front cover.

Of course inside is the best choice if possible, and if you do that, then it's easy to simply take off the front cover and lay it on the filter and draw another circle around the cover. Then, taking your time, start slowly trimming away that excess filter until you just have the part with the pen drawn circle.

The way you trim, is to hold the filter in one hand and make a straight cut with your scissors all the way across the filter just to the edge where the line is, then you rotate the filter a bit and make another straight cut just to the edge. Each time you make a cut, it only gets just down to the edge where the line is, so you need to do this rotate and cut thing about 20 times to get a rough circle, rotating it just a tiny bit each time.

Think of it like this. Draw a circle on a piece of paper, then using a ruler, draw a straight line on the paper that touches the outer edge of the circle. Then turn the ruler a bit and draw another straight line that just touches the edge of the circle. Keep doing that until you've touched all the edges of the circle with a straight line.

That's what you are doing with these cuts. You are slowly cutting out the circle using straight cuts that each time only barely touch the edge, and after enough of those you will have a rough circle. Then it's just a matter of SLOWLY smoothing it out and adjusting the size.

It's not hard, because your cuts are straight, and after the first time around it looks really rough, with all these little points sticking out, and you'll still be able to see the circular line you've drawn, so it's probably still a bit to big.

Now, place the filter on the glass cover and squeeze at the edges. If the filter is to big, it will buckle a bit. So, keep SLOWLY trimming, making straight cuts and rotating, but smaller and more precise now, making the circle smoother as you go, and stop every 2 or 3 cuts and put it on the glass again and see if it buckles when you squeeze the edges.

Finally, you'll get it where it fits on the glass just right, then clean both the filter and the glass, but remember, this is a coated glass and needs to be cleaned VERY carefully to not mar the anti-reflective coating. I use the special tissues and cleaner for my glasses and it works well.

Then re-assemble and your done.

If you're mounting it on the outside, it's basically the same procedure, but you just have to take it a little slower, and check the fit more often, and at some point it will just fit down inside the bezel and not come back up. I've done 3 lights that way, and while it wasn't hard, it did take me about 30 minutes of patiently and carefully sitting there and slowly trimming and then checking, and then a tiny bit more trimming and then checking, but I never had one that didn't fit perfectly in the end.

So, the key is a pair of sharp scissors, and patience. I put on some nice jazz while I'm doing it and make sure I'm not in a hurry. Also, make sure your work area is clean, and I laid down a white T-shirt to make it easier to see when I dropped the tiny filter, which I did a few times.

It really is worth the effort, and if you have a few mistakes, then keep trying. Even though I've done this quite a few times now, it still takes about 30 minutes for me to slowly and carefully trim these.

I hope this helps :).
 
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gcbryan

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And sometimes you don't even have to take that much time. If you can take the bezel off (with some you can't of course) many will have enough extra space past the diameter of the bezel that you don't have to be exact. Just cut a circle out that is a tiny bit larger than the reflector and drop it in. If it buckles you made it too big but many times it doesn't buckle. It's certainly not rocket science. Some lights where you can't open the bezel and depending on the shape of the bezel can be harder and have to be exact or you will have issues as ITPython mentions.

I've found it tedious to cut diffusion film for my Zebralight H51 because of the shape of the bezel. I've used DCfix for many lights but with the H51 I ended up using tape because I couldn't get the DCfix exact enough and it created artifacts.

In all cases it can be done however. Good description Derek!
 
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Derek Dean

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ITPython, you seem a bit quick to call things "impossible". I know that when I first started playing with these filters, I spent many days trying various filters with various results. Part of the problem can be eye fatigue, or more accurately, brain fatigue, when I find that after trying various filters for an hour or so I realize that I need to take a break, maybe for a half-an-hour, maybe until the next night.

When I was filtering my XP-G based lights, I found it fairly easy, because the spot and the spill were basically the same tint, so one filter worked for the entire beam, but my recent experience with my first XM-L light showed the same thing you've found, that some LEDs can exhibit odd two or even three different tints within the same beam, making filtering a much more challenging proposition.

My choice with my Zebralight SC600 XM-L was to filter for the spot/corona, and let the spill go where it may, and I must admit that I've been very happy with the results. It's quite pleasant now.

Is it perfect. No, but it is MUCH better.

You've only been playing with filters for a couple of days. Give it some time, and try not to think of this as a way to the "perfect" tint, but a way to take an existing light that has a disgusting tint, and at least make it usable, if not downright beautiful.
 

Streamer

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I have to admit it took me about 6 trys but I finally got it ! My wife suggested her grommet kit and was just about right. There is a cutter die, but unfortunately it is just a tad small, but it works ! Cuts a perfect circle. Now if someone could just locate the perfect diameter cutter all the hassle of hand cutting would be over with.

Anyways, I did it the old fashioned way ..with sharp scissors and determination (six attempts LOL) I used the Designer Series Pale Gold #152 swatch and applied it to the LDO1 The Pale Rose #154 is also good, but is a more diffused cellophane. Either will remove the green tint from the LDO1. Below is finished product.

I wonder if torch specific threads could be started as applicable to each model of torch that cpfer's wish to tint-change. hmmmm..

And thanks, Derek Dean ! It was your lead that I followed to get the pissy green out of my Life..LOL Thanks !



PaleGold152.jpg
 
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Sanderman

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Does anyone who's done this have the ability to measure relative light loss? I wonder why no flashlight manufacturer has thought of this?
 

Streamer

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Does anyone who's done this have the ability to measure relative light loss? I wonder why no flashlight manufacturer has thought of this?

I wasn't for tinting if a huge amount of light was lost. There isn't. I can't measure it, that's for sure. But the monumental color correction of the puky green more than makes up for any loss IMO..whatever that may be.
 
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