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Sold/Expired *Closed* Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sales thread
- Thread starter winny
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flex76italy
Enlightened
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2005
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- 405
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
The first option please, press and hold.
:thanks:
The first option please, press and hold.
:thanks:
winny
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
Sound like everyone thinks like me. Very good!
I wasn't really clear in my last post. The two stage setting was just an example. The PIR will ship with three user-settable levels. If you only want one or two, you simply set the ones you don't want to 0.0 V and they will be ignored when you try to change to them.
We are almost done with the programming. The little round-off error was a hard nut to crack and you will only be able to measure it if you really push it, there is no way that you will ever notice it otherwise. We used my lux-meter and noticed a 5 % difference between 10 V and 20 V Uin which is within the error margin for my lux-meter and as I said, not noticeable for normal operation.
44 regulators have everything except the uC and 15 have everything except six components so that equals over 85 % done.
For those of you who ordered with loose LEDs, could you consider to have the LEDs on (one or two) and get two extra loose? That would save me some time and you might get your regulator one day sooner. You will need to solder cables to the regulator anyway if you wanted to run with loose LEDs so you can just as well desolder the on-board LEDs as well, I thought.
Someone asked me earlier what my plan was for those who left the LEDs on when they wanted to reprogram them. Well, either you use it like AWRs hotdriver, which you need to dismantle you flashlight in order to change any values or you can turn your PIR upside down, making the LEDs facing the bulb and drill a little hole in your Kiu-socket. That way you would only need to take out your reflector and bulb in order to access the LEDs.
Sound like everyone thinks like me. Very good!
I wasn't really clear in my last post. The two stage setting was just an example. The PIR will ship with three user-settable levels. If you only want one or two, you simply set the ones you don't want to 0.0 V and they will be ignored when you try to change to them.
We are almost done with the programming. The little round-off error was a hard nut to crack and you will only be able to measure it if you really push it, there is no way that you will ever notice it otherwise. We used my lux-meter and noticed a 5 % difference between 10 V and 20 V Uin which is within the error margin for my lux-meter and as I said, not noticeable for normal operation.
44 regulators have everything except the uC and 15 have everything except six components so that equals over 85 % done.
For those of you who ordered with loose LEDs, could you consider to have the LEDs on (one or two) and get two extra loose? That would save me some time and you might get your regulator one day sooner. You will need to solder cables to the regulator anyway if you wanted to run with loose LEDs so you can just as well desolder the on-board LEDs as well, I thought.
Someone asked me earlier what my plan was for those who left the LEDs on when they wanted to reprogram them. Well, either you use it like AWRs hotdriver, which you need to dismantle you flashlight in order to change any values or you can turn your PIR upside down, making the LEDs facing the bulb and drill a little hole in your Kiu-socket. That way you would only need to take out your reflector and bulb in order to access the LEDs.
Last edited:
Illuminated
Enlightened
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
Quote:
For those of you who ordered with loose LEDs, could you consider to have the LEDs on (one or two) and get two extra loose? That would save me some time and you might get your regulator one day sooner. You will need to solder cables to the regulator anyway if you wanted to run with loose LEDs so you can just as well desolder the on-board LEDs as well, I thought.
That's fine with me Winny - you're doing great!
Quote:
...Compared to that, we are doing charity with our sale! We paid over $2 for just one of the tantals alone. The capacitors, the transistors and the 5 V regulators eat up nearly all our profit.
That isn't acceptable...
for something extra -you deserve it!
John
Quote:
For those of you who ordered with loose LEDs, could you consider to have the LEDs on (one or two) and get two extra loose? That would save me some time and you might get your regulator one day sooner. You will need to solder cables to the regulator anyway if you wanted to run with loose LEDs so you can just as well desolder the on-board LEDs as well, I thought.
That's fine with me Winny - you're doing great!
Quote:
...Compared to that, we are doing charity with our sale! We paid over $2 for just one of the tantals alone. The capacitors, the transistors and the 5 V regulators eat up nearly all our profit.
That isn't acceptable...
John
winny
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
Illuminated,
That isn't really necessary... This first run was not intended primarily for making money anyway but rather to make sure that awr doesn't take the entire market at once. I felt that I could build a better product, and possibly sell it cheaper if I just made sure that my margins where as small as possible. There might be other prices for the second run if we do things differently too...
Many thanks anyway!
Here is a little teaser for all of you on how the menu system looks right now. There will be small changes to this in the first release firmware but it will give you a good overview on how the setup will look like.
- Main menu -
1. Voltage 1 -> xx.y [V] x=[0 60] y=[0 9] 0.0 V => Mode disabled
2. Voltage 2 -> xx.y [V] x=[0 60] y=[0 9] 0.0 V => Mode disabled
3. Voltage 3 -> xx.y [V] x=[0 60] y=[0 9] 0.0 V => Mode disabled
4. Softstart time -> xxy0 [ms] x=[0 30] y=[0 9]
5. Cutoff voltage -> xx.y [V] x=[0 60] y=[0 9] 0.0 V => Cutoff disabled
6. Shutdown temperature -> xxy [*C] x=[0 13] y=[0 9] 0.0 *C => Ignore temperature
7. Calibration -> Enter sub menu (yellow LED is lit)
8. Kitchen* default -> x x=[0 9] 5 => confirm
- Calibration sub menu -
1. Calibrate drive - positive -> xx.y [%] x=[0 50] y=[0 9]
2. Calibrate drive - negative -> xx.y [%] x=[0 50] y=[0 9]
3. Calibrate cutoff - positive -> xx.y [%] x=[0 50] y=[0 9]
4. Calibrate cutoff - negative -> xx.y [%] x=[0 50] y=[0 9]
*Kitchen would translate into factory if we actually had a factory, but we don't and as much of the work is done in the kitchen, it's kitchen default.
Illuminated,
That isn't really necessary... This first run was not intended primarily for making money anyway but rather to make sure that awr doesn't take the entire market at once. I felt that I could build a better product, and possibly sell it cheaper if I just made sure that my margins where as small as possible. There might be other prices for the second run if we do things differently too...
Many thanks anyway!
Here is a little teaser for all of you on how the menu system looks right now. There will be small changes to this in the first release firmware but it will give you a good overview on how the setup will look like.
- Main menu -
1. Voltage 1 -> xx.y [V] x=[0 60] y=[0 9] 0.0 V => Mode disabled
2. Voltage 2 -> xx.y [V] x=[0 60] y=[0 9] 0.0 V => Mode disabled
3. Voltage 3 -> xx.y [V] x=[0 60] y=[0 9] 0.0 V => Mode disabled
4. Softstart time -> xxy0 [ms] x=[0 30] y=[0 9]
5. Cutoff voltage -> xx.y [V] x=[0 60] y=[0 9] 0.0 V => Cutoff disabled
6. Shutdown temperature -> xxy [*C] x=[0 13] y=[0 9] 0.0 *C => Ignore temperature
7. Calibration -> Enter sub menu (yellow LED is lit)
8. Kitchen* default -> x x=[0 9] 5 => confirm
- Calibration sub menu -
1. Calibrate drive - positive -> xx.y [%] x=[0 50] y=[0 9]
2. Calibrate drive - negative -> xx.y [%] x=[0 50] y=[0 9]
3. Calibrate cutoff - positive -> xx.y [%] x=[0 50] y=[0 9]
4. Calibrate cutoff - negative -> xx.y [%] x=[0 50] y=[0 9]
*Kitchen would translate into factory if we actually had a factory, but we don't and as much of the work is done in the kitchen, it's kitchen default.
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
If it is easier for you, not a problem! Is it just easier for you to solder all the LED's on than try to figure out which boards do & dont get them?
Patrick
winny said:
If it is easier for you, not a problem! Is it just easier for you to solder all the LED's on than try to figure out which boards do & dont get them?
Patrick
andrewwynn
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
we can always tack on the tiny wires in parallel to the on-board LED for a remote-mount.. it actually makes more sense to just have it on the board since it's very nice to test it outside the light before putting it inside anyhow.
I laughed out loud at the awr eating the entire market.. did a good job since more PIR sold that HD on CPF. I think people are waiting to see them in-hand or something... that will be very very soon. ditto for the PIRs it would seem. I'm very interested to see the head-to-head which will work best for which application.. the nearly direct-drive solution like Mag85 for example, where hotdriver has higher efficiency than a KIU socket direct-drive.. PIR should be able to do just the same if switching turns off and it goes to 100% duty cycle.. i could never find any driver chips that would do that, which is a main reason why h.d. is LDO not switching.
I've got the 'chevy' of the incandescent regulator were winny has the 'bmw'.. definitely more elegant with the uC controller and programmable interface.. major kudos.. but since most would be a 'set and forget'.. and with many of the options more than 99% efficient anyhow.. the basic HD is a 'gimmie' at 22% less expensive.
Great job to get the price competitive.. amazing that the price of the 'comparable' model is the same.. it actually is a coincidence for the most part.. winny set the price first by selling first and the figure was withn a few dollars of what i came up with for mine independently.
-awr
we can always tack on the tiny wires in parallel to the on-board LED for a remote-mount.. it actually makes more sense to just have it on the board since it's very nice to test it outside the light before putting it inside anyhow.
I laughed out loud at the awr eating the entire market.. did a good job since more PIR sold that HD on CPF. I think people are waiting to see them in-hand or something... that will be very very soon. ditto for the PIRs it would seem. I'm very interested to see the head-to-head which will work best for which application.. the nearly direct-drive solution like Mag85 for example, where hotdriver has higher efficiency than a KIU socket direct-drive.. PIR should be able to do just the same if switching turns off and it goes to 100% duty cycle.. i could never find any driver chips that would do that, which is a main reason why h.d. is LDO not switching.
I've got the 'chevy' of the incandescent regulator were winny has the 'bmw'.. definitely more elegant with the uC controller and programmable interface.. major kudos.. but since most would be a 'set and forget'.. and with many of the options more than 99% efficient anyhow.. the basic HD is a 'gimmie' at 22% less expensive.
Great job to get the price competitive.. amazing that the price of the 'comparable' model is the same.. it actually is a coincidence for the most part.. winny set the price first by selling first and the figure was withn a few dollars of what i came up with for mine independently.
-awr
cnjl3
Enlightened
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
Hey, that will work for me too!
One day earlier? I like the sound of that! :naughty:
winny said:
Hey, that will work for me too!
One day earlier? I like the sound of that! :naughty:
vacuum3d
Enlightened
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
No problem. Just leave the LEDs onboard for me.
Thanks,
ernest
No problem. Just leave the LEDs onboard for me.
Thanks,
ernest
cnjl3
Enlightened
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
I was under the impression that you were concerned about the bulb heating up the regulator & that was why i put in my 2cents worth about possibly a heat shield of some sort.
The space between the aluminum base and ceramic socket is quite ample enough to get at least two air pockets plus the reflective surface of the top most washer which would IMHO direct the heat up towards the head of the flashlight and away from the circuit board. You would only be able to use one washer i you are going to use a long bulb like a MR16 type but BIPIN's give you more room to work with.
Your reply only confused me:
anyway I think that it turned out better for me that both PIR and Hot drivers i am getting will be unassembled since it will allow me to try out my idea.
the following pictures show the standard kiu socket and base and my modification which only required longer bolts and a couple of washers.
At this point in time neither switch has a regulator but as soon as i get one i will try and take some temperature readings and see if it is any cooler below the bulb area with and without the air pockets.
I was under the impression that you were concerned about the bulb heating up the regulator & that was why i put in my 2cents worth about possibly a heat shield of some sort.
The space between the aluminum base and ceramic socket is quite ample enough to get at least two air pockets plus the reflective surface of the top most washer which would IMHO direct the heat up towards the head of the flashlight and away from the circuit board. You would only be able to use one washer i you are going to use a long bulb like a MR16 type but BIPIN's give you more room to work with.
Your reply only confused me:
winny said:
anyway I think that it turned out better for me that both PIR and Hot drivers i am getting will be unassembled since it will allow me to try out my idea.
the following pictures show the standard kiu socket and base and my modification which only required longer bolts and a couple of washers.
At this point in time neither switch has a regulator but as soon as i get one i will try and take some temperature readings and see if it is any cooler below the bulb area with and without the air pockets.
andrewwynn
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
without question.. this solution will help EITHER the PIR or the hotdriver escape some of the tremendous heat from the back of the lamp. Since alum conducts a LOT better than air.. not sure if having more than one will help things.. but having some fiberglass stuffed between a single ring and the KIU would likely to wonders.
That is reaaaly clever by the way that you can make this mod w/o taking apart the KIU.
Since the lamps i'm using are so big.. i was thinking of a cone-shape to get more insulation.. all the way up to the middle of the ceramic socket.
great design, nice idea.. very helpful.. my Mag625 will get the innards up to 85C within about 10 minutes w/o it.
-awr
without question.. this solution will help EITHER the PIR or the hotdriver escape some of the tremendous heat from the back of the lamp. Since alum conducts a LOT better than air.. not sure if having more than one will help things.. but having some fiberglass stuffed between a single ring and the KIU would likely to wonders.
That is reaaaly clever by the way that you can make this mod w/o taking apart the KIU.
Since the lamps i'm using are so big.. i was thinking of a cone-shape to get more insulation.. all the way up to the middle of the ceramic socket.
great design, nice idea.. very helpful.. my Mag625 will get the innards up to 85C within about 10 minutes w/o it.
-awr
winny
Flashlight Enthusiast
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
PGP, awr,
I'm not sure what you mean by following the wires but if you want to use your own LEDs, the easiest way is to desolder the LEDs and solder wires to the solderpads where the LEDs used to be. You should be able to run them in parallel as well but the uC can only provide 20 mA as most and we do have 470 ohm resistor in series. If you think 470 ohm is too much (too low current) the onboard LEDs should still bright enough to been seen in full daylight and in any angle. I don't know how it will preform with parallel LEDs... Probably similar.
cnjl3,
I'll try to explain better. Using a somewhat bad PSU at 20 V and setting the lamp for 12 V or something similar caused the transistor to heat up with perhaps 20 mW of power, the mosfet driver 10 mW and the tantal capacitor 50 mW. So if you compare the transistor with the capacitor, the low Ron is a bit overkill.
I'll try to test the same setup with 20 NiMH AAs today and see if it makes any difference. Even it it don't, you will still have 98 % efficiency or higher in your regulator.
Your heat-shield looks nice. My fellow CPFer Spacemarine had a different solution, but I haven't been able to test it yet. It looks like this:
Photos by Spacemarine. Thanks!
PGP, awr,
I'm not sure what you mean by following the wires but if you want to use your own LEDs, the easiest way is to desolder the LEDs and solder wires to the solderpads where the LEDs used to be. You should be able to run them in parallel as well but the uC can only provide 20 mA as most and we do have 470 ohm resistor in series. If you think 470 ohm is too much (too low current) the onboard LEDs should still bright enough to been seen in full daylight and in any angle. I don't know how it will preform with parallel LEDs... Probably similar.
cnjl3,
I'll try to explain better. Using a somewhat bad PSU at 20 V and setting the lamp for 12 V or something similar caused the transistor to heat up with perhaps 20 mW of power, the mosfet driver 10 mW and the tantal capacitor 50 mW. So if you compare the transistor with the capacitor, the low Ron is a bit overkill.
I'll try to test the same setup with 20 NiMH AAs today and see if it makes any difference. Even it it don't, you will still have 98 % efficiency or higher in your regulator.
Your heat-shield looks nice. My fellow CPFer Spacemarine had a different solution, but I haven't been able to test it yet. It looks like this:
Photos by Spacemarine. Thanks!
Last edited:
Spacemarine
Enlightened
Re: Programmable Incandescent Regulator 1 sign up-thread *accepting payments*
The yellow stuff you see in the pictures is glass-wool, the stuff that is normally used to insulate your house. It's temperature stable up to 800° C (around 1500° F), doesen't burn and is easily cuttable with a knive. It's very cheap and has a thermal coefficient of 0.035 W/mK. I think that's the ideal stuff for this purpose and you won't find anything that insulates as well as this and is very cheap at the same time.
I took a long pice of this stuff that is normally used to insulate pipes and worked on it with a knife until it fitted perfectly into the Mag and there was enough space for a MR16. It now fills up ALL the space between the kiu socket and the MR16, leaving no air inside...
The yellow stuff you see in the pictures is glass-wool, the stuff that is normally used to insulate your house. It's temperature stable up to 800° C (around 1500° F), doesen't burn and is easily cuttable with a knive. It's very cheap and has a thermal coefficient of 0.035 W/mK. I think that's the ideal stuff for this purpose and you won't find anything that insulates as well as this and is very cheap at the same time.
I took a long pice of this stuff that is normally used to insulate pipes and worked on it with a knife until it fitted perfectly into the Mag and there was enough space for a MR16. It now fills up ALL the space between the kiu socket and the MR16, leaving no air inside...
