Comprehensive Grease and Lube Thread

[Jiri]

Guys, what do you think of XTAR GR1 - lube grease? Is it good?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/100-...Cream-Accessories-White-Blue/32302709864.html

 

[cxax]

Is there any alternative to Deoxit Red for EagleTac flashlight connectors? I live in Europe and Deoxit is barely available here, while shipping costs from US double its price.
What about Nyogel 760G or Molykote X5-6020 (which is recommended, inter alia, for telescopes).

 

[neutralwhite]

I'm wondering what lube hds lights Henry uses?.

 

[softsorter]

Thanks for the info, I was caught out a few years ago using vasaline on a watch back O ring which destroyed the O ring

 

[On Edge]

Anyone use Tuf-Glide or Nano Lube on their lights? Any caveats with these regarding O-ring degradation, etc.?

I own both products, use Tuf-Glide on my knives, and Nano Lube on the slides of my pistols, and both are quality products, but neither application involves contact with O-rings … any help would be appreciated.

 

[Buck91]

I would think the solvent carrier in TG would cause o-ring damage. Whether it does so quickly or eventually I don't know.

 

[CelticCross74]

Nitecore SRT6 gritty magnetic ring problem. I also collect knives and have a pen of tuff glide. Would this work on smoothing out my SRT ring? Also since Nyogel seems to have vanished I use silicone grease for my threads and rings. So far that has worked pretty well of course I am aware to keep the contact points free of any grease etc.

My SRT7 has a ring that is sweet and smooth with no grittiness. My SRT6 ring is gritty and tougher to turn....any advice?

 

[On Edge]

I would think the solvent carrier in TG would cause o-ring damage. Whether it does so quickly or eventually I don't know.

OK, so I put some TG on my AAA Maratac Cu light (yes BEFORE I read your response) and it's been about a week and so far vast improvement with no discernible deterioration to the o-ring.
I just got a AAA Maratac Ti light, and it was awful gritty, but having read through page 1 again, I applied some Chris Reeve fluorinated grease to that one … still feels pretty ugly, but I'll give it time …
If the o-ring holds up on the Cu light, I may switch to TG on the Ti light as well, given that TG "micro bonds" and is a dry lube - which sounds like a good fit for Ti to me.
This may turn out to be a good little experiment … time will tell.
Thanks for the help!

 

[srvctec]

I just got a AAA Maratac Ti light, and it was awful gritty, but having read through page 1 again, I applied some Chris Reeve fluorinated grease to that one … still feels pretty ugly, but I'll give it time …

I just got my Maratac Ti as well and it was pretty gritty, too. Something you might try to help it tremendously (this is what I do on any gritty feeling light and did on this one) is to remove the battery and replace the head making sure there is plenty of lube. Then just screw it all the way down and back out, putting pressure on the head as you turn it. Also pull on the head while turning it in and out. Do this until it feels smooth (took me about 3 to 5 minutes) and then remove the head. Clean off all the lube from the head and body which will be quite dirty after this process. Put on new lube and install the battery and it should be much better.

 

[xzel87]

I just got my Maratac Ti as well and it was pretty gritty, too. Something you might try to help it tremendously (this is what I do on any gritty feeling light and did on this one) is to remove the battery and replace the head making sure there is plenty of lube. Then just screw it all the way down and back out, putting pressure on the head as you turn it. Also pull on the head while turning it in and out. Do this until it feels smooth (took me about 3 to 5 minutes) and then remove the head. Clean off all the lube from the head and body which will be quite dirty after this process. Put on new lube and install the battery and it should be much better.

+1

Had some gritty feeling tailcaps so I used this method exactly and boy the clear lube became black in no time, and if you feel it with your hands the lube is filled with rough metal shavings/powder.

Before I did this, if i forcefully screw on the tailcap too tight I had to use pliers to loosen it. Now it is effortless.

 

[Tecboy]

Just curious, how do the threads get corroded?

 

[srvctec]

Just curios, how do the threads get corroded?

They don't get corroded. It's just a little roughness left over from the manufacturing process of when the threads were cut. It's more of an issue with the standard triangular threads we're all used to which are on the Maratac lights as well as many others. If square threads are cut, there usually isn't an issue but you need more length and thickness of the material the light is made of to make square threads work which is why you usually don't see them on little AAA lights.

 

[Tecboy]

Do you apply grease on the thread of a bezel?

 

[srvctec]

Do you apply grease on the thread of a bezel?

I never do because I don't remove and re-install bezels often- I generally just leave them on. If you need to remove and re-install them frequently then it wouldn't hurt to lube them.

 

[usrnam]

Here's a lubricant, stored in my toolbox, I'm trying out on a zoom-able LED flashlight that uses a ball bearing and spring along with threaded assemblies. Seems to make the moving parts function a little better.

This is a lighter type of grease lubricant, originally made for electrical switch contacts in the automotive industries (switches, sockets and harness connectors).

Back of tube shows: Excellent oxidation resistance and compatibility with metal, plastics and rubber.

Lubriplate DS-ES Part No. LO137-086.

I've read of at least one flashlight owner using it on their Maglites to lubricate the internal switches, mechanisms, threads, springs, etc.

Perhaps could be thicker in consistency. The flashlight did have some small areas around the zoom with a very small amount of what appeared to be silicon grease.

For electrical switches and contacts this lubricant works excellent. Doesn't gum up and will last a long time.

_____

 

[Brlux]

My favorite lube as of late is dielectric grease. It is kind of a milky clear grease used on electrical contacts and connectors the look and consistency remind me of silicons grease. I bought a large tube of it at the auto parts store for a about $6. They also have little single use packets of it at the check out counter for less than a buck for adding to things like trailer light connectors. I find myself putting a small dab on a finger and then wiping it on the inside lip of a tail cap that seals against the o wring. Then installing the tail cap does a good job of coating the o wrings. I figure it is a grease and intended for use in electrical environments, aiding in electrical conduction. I guess I don't know it's long term effects on o wrings but so far I have had no adverse effects. But I suppose it is intended to use with connectors which often have rubber environmental seals.

Here is a link to the tube I am using.

Any thoughts or advice?

 

[CL97405]

Great thread! One quibble: yes, WD-40 is a lubricant, as follows naturally since it is composed principally of petroleum fractions. It's not ideal for this application, but to assert that it's not a lubricant is incorrect.

 

[Yamabushi]

... the look and consistency remind me of silicons grease.

It is a silicone grease so should be safe except for silicone O-rings.

 

[teacher]

It is a silicone grease so should be safe except for silicone O-rings.

What is wrong with using silicone grease on silicone O-rings?? :thinking:
I do it all the time.

 

[Yamabushi]

What is wrong with using silicone grease on silicone O-rings?? :thinking:
I do it all the time.

Silicone oils and greases cause silicone rubber to soften and swell. See the first post in this thread, or look up any rubber chemical compatibility chart.