Engine oil recommendation
- Thread starter markr6
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markr6
Flashaholic
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Bumping this oldie since I now have a newer Jeep and did switch to full synthetic. 54% life remaining on the gauge and it's already up to about 4700mi. I don't think I have the nerve to take it much lower than 20% at this rate! Trust the computer, sort of, no? Regardless I think I'll plan on about 8000mi. $30 to freshen it up, that isn't going to throw me into bankruptcy.
scout24
Flashaholic
5000 mile/6 month changes on personal use vehicles is plenty. I did fleet maintenance for 25+ years, regular changes are far more important than type or brand of oil in my experience.
Kestrel
Flashaholic
Older thread, but thought to post my two lumens as well;
I've always used the very cheapest oil possible in my '94 Toyota Corolla, and the engine is still very strong at 410,000 miles.
I've always used the very cheapest oil possible in my '94 Toyota Corolla, and the engine is still very strong at 410,000 miles.
markr6
Flashaholic
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My dad uses Rural King (kinda like Tractor Supply) store brand oil, full synthetic, for something like $9/5-qt jug. Insane deal, but I just can't bring myself to do it.
raggie33
*the raggedier*
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penzoiil taste aweful
X2 on the Valvoline MaxLife.
It contains a small amount of moly in it to coat parts with a microscopic layer that really helps with cold starts.
I have a Honda Prelude with a motor Honda devised with super hard cylinder walls inside the alluminum block. (Same stuff Porsche uses). Well the piston ring alloy Honda chose for the B21 was no match for those cylinder walls and most of them gave out like a Vega engine in the 70's. If they didn't give out they smoked like crazy until finally ring material would end up in the bearings and cause the ole spun bearing drama.
Molybdenum to the rescue. I started using STP oil treatment in one B21 with 225k miles and the smoking stopped. Trouble with STP oil treatment is it has too much moly and ends up clogging the catalytic convertor over time. But my experiment worked. MaxLife in that engine kept it from smoking and oil consumption was drastically reduced. I sold the car to a lad who did not treat the engine well and it....spun a bearing.
My other 91 has 180k on the motor and MaxLife makes it pure like a kitten.
It contains a small amount of moly in it to coat parts with a microscopic layer that really helps with cold starts.
I have a Honda Prelude with a motor Honda devised with super hard cylinder walls inside the alluminum block. (Same stuff Porsche uses). Well the piston ring alloy Honda chose for the B21 was no match for those cylinder walls and most of them gave out like a Vega engine in the 70's. If they didn't give out they smoked like crazy until finally ring material would end up in the bearings and cause the ole spun bearing drama.
Molybdenum to the rescue. I started using STP oil treatment in one B21 with 225k miles and the smoking stopped. Trouble with STP oil treatment is it has too much moly and ends up clogging the catalytic convertor over time. But my experiment worked. MaxLife in that engine kept it from smoking and oil consumption was drastically reduced. I sold the car to a lad who did not treat the engine well and it....spun a bearing.
My other 91 has 180k on the motor and MaxLife makes it pure like a kitten.
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Lou Minescence
Flashlight Enthusiast
I've probably had about 50 customers who have put 300k or more miles on their vehicles - remarkably non of them have used any particular brand loyal type oil. The secret is to keep the oil level full and change it when your supposed to.
I use a no name full synthetic 5-30 because I go to snowmobile county and want my pickup to be able to start at below zero temps.
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