Fenix PD35 "TAC" 2015 (XP-L V5, 1x18650 or 2xCR123A) Review

CelticCross74

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all these cigar tube sized lights get hot and get hot fast. The only one that does not get hot fast is the UC35 due to all the extra heat sinking behind the reflector where the mini USB port is. Still loving my TAC and oddly my Jetbeam XP-L WL-S2.
 

smallmagnum

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Hello candle lamp.
Thank you very much for the detailed review. Due to your review i decided to buy a PD35 TAC, though i allready own the PD32 UE. Yesterday i received it and
immediately tested it indoor and outdoor.

I agree with all your descriptions, with the exception of the side switch in the head. In my opinion this circular stainless steel switch is not easily to locate by feel,
not as easily as the rectangular rubber switch of the PD32 UE.

On a white wall (and only on a white wall) i can see a donut hole in eco mode, which becomes barely visible in low mode, and disappears in all higher modes,
but i have to admit, that i am very sensitive to donut holes. All in all a very good beam and well stepped brightness modes.

Good to know, that i can simply change the direction of the clip by turning the battery tube.
Due to your review now i also know, how the low-voltage reminder works, i couldn't find anything about it in the manual.

I am very satisfied with the PD35 TAC. Thank's again.

Kind Regards from Germany.
Peter, aka smallmagnum
 
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candle lamp

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I agree with all your descriptions, with the exception of the side switch in the head. In my opinion this circular stainless steel switch is not easily to locate by feel,not as easily as the rectangular rubber switch of the PD32 UE.

On a white wall (and only on a white wall) i can see a donut hole in eco mode, which becomes barely visible in low mode, and disappears in all higher modes,but i have to admit, that i am very sensitive to donut holes. All in all a very good beam and well stepped brightness modes.

As with a lot of side switch lights, it isn't easy to find it by feel in the dark. Instead, the durability of the metal seems to be better. Yes, the side switch is easy to find for the PD32UE, thanks to big rubber material and embossed logo.
Within 4~5cm distance, the donut hole on echo and low mode against only a white wall is visible to me.

Thanks for your detailed feedback and support. Peter! :)
 

CelticCross74

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Here is the TAC lighting up my backyard quite well as well as being so bright against the back of my house one cannot make out many details.

IMG_01481_zpswbbe0rd8.jpg


IMG_01471_zpsvk5iktpr.jpg


Amazing light easily north of 1000 lumens.
 

wytstang

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Awesome review and great back yard shots, I really can't wait for mine to arrive and blast it on the hunting club.
 

Not Hot

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I purchased the Fenix PD35 TAC prior to reading your review.

One issue is the subtle molding of the side switch. In full darkness or with gloves it becomes vague and difficult to sense.

Thanks for your excellent review!

mtg
 

candle lamp

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Here is the TAC lighting up my backyard quite well as well as being so bright against the back of my house one cannot make out many details.

IMG_01481_zpswbbe0rd8.jpg


IMG_01471_zpsvk5iktpr.jpg


Amazing light easily north of 1000 lumens.

Wow! I like your green lawn as well as nice beamshot.

Awesome review and great back yard shots, I really can't wait for mine to arrive and blast it on the hunting club.

Thanks. Hope you will like it.

I purchased the Fenix PD35 TAC prior to reading your review.

One issue is the subtle molding of the side switch. In full darkness or with gloves it becomes vague and difficult to sense.

Thanks for your excellent review!

mtg

Ah! I see. I agree with you. I've found that it's difficult to find the side switch by feel with glove in the dark. I think the side switch which is embossed with some pattern (or figure) would be better. Thanks for your feedback.
 

CelticCross74

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I thought the TAC was blinding before but now in a CR123 experiment I put a pair of fresh Titanium Innovation CR123's in my TAC and the output has gone from ridiculous to insane. The protection circuits on the Titaniums have a lower threshold before they trip and they seem to handle how hot the light gets extremely well. The above shots I took in my backyard was with a 3600 mah Orbtronic 18650. Have since bought some new Keeppower 3500mah 10amp 18650s that seem to crank 3-4 amp lights to their fullest and at the same time drain slower than even the 3600mah Orbtronics I have. Only power source I have not tried in the TAC are 2xRCR123's. Going by Selfbuilts PD35 review I am assuming the TAC just like the original "850" PD35 crank to their utmost maximum on 2xCR123's. I do have 2xRCR123's to experiment with and will try.

I do not have any testing equipment all my observations are by the seat of my eyeballs. One day I hope to copy Selfbuilts perfect light box. I will say that with 2xCR123 Titaniums the spill from the TAC is damn near equal to the hotspot. Am testing a fresh(exp date 2025)batch of 12 Titanium Innovations CR123's across a few lights against my incoming factory fresh Panasonic CR123's. The difference in output and ability to handle heat by these Chinese Titanium CR123's is unlike anything I have seen from any other CR123. Will update post when my back ordered Panasonics arrive.
 

KeepingItLight

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CC, I'd keep an eye on those CR123A batteries. Checking the product page at Battery Junction, I see they are spec'ed for the same 1.5A maximum continuous discharge as most other CR123A batteries. When you run your Fenix PD35 Tac on turbo, you are almost certainly exceeding that spec.

The same web page states that the PTC High Current Discharge Protection only kicks in at 5A. By the time that works to limit current, you are well beyond the rated capability of the battery.
 
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CelticCross74

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thanks for the advice KeepingItLight! I am indeed aware that I am pushing the TAC and the old "850" PD35 to their limit using these Titanium cells or any other CR123. This is all an experiment to see if there is any real performance difference between the Chinese Titaniums and the more expensive US made Panasonics. I do realize the possibility for the cells to burst in gas and flame is there. Once again I am no battery expert by any means.

I know this is a very basic question but from what I understand the TAC and PD35 are 3 amp lights? Am I incorrect in thinking that two 1.5 amp cells together makes for 3 amps? Or is it the two 3 volt cells together in the TAC push 6 volts to the driver but still only 1.5 amps? I knew the series/parallel math awhile ago but have completely forgotten it. I do know that my new 3500mah 10amp Keeppowers feed lights whatever amperage they need easily and so far the 3500mah Keeppowers have held their charge better than any of my dozens of other 18650's. Once my CR123 experiment is over my TAC and PD35 will get the 3500mah Keeppowers.

I have these Titanium cells in 5 lights right now and so far they crank all of them to what looks like as high output as they will go. Just put a set of them into my MH20 and once again I see a visual difference in output from the 3600mah Orb I had in it. I know the CR123's wont last as long as 18650's but for now none of the lights in this experiment have melted down and none of the cells have burst etc.

I expect the incoming Panasonics to have sudden step downs at max output when their PTC trips. In the end this is all to find out which CR123's are best for my TX25C and 2014 TK22. The output difference in the TK22 was the most startling of the bunch.
 

KeepingItLight

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In series, the voltage of two cells adds, and the same current runs through both batteries. Thus, the driver sees 6 volts (before the batteries sag).

Off the top of my head, I believe you are correct about emitter current. Roughly speaking, an XM-L2 or XP-L needs about 3 amps in order to produce 1000+ lumens. You can check that on the Cree data sheets.

Emitter current, however, is not the same as battery current. On one side, a driver has an input voltage and current. On the other side, it has an output voltage and current.

Now we get into territory where I am not knowledgeable. I believe the forward voltage of, say, an XP-L, is around 3.3 volts. That is the output voltage. We estimated output current above, at about 3 amps. We know that 2xCR123A (before sag) gives 6 volts. That is the input voltage. What we don't know is the input current.

Without trying to put a number on it, let me suggest that a typical driver won't need 3 amps from the batteries in this circumstance. My guess, however, is that it will need more than 1.5A! Probably, we are in the neighborhood of 2-2.5 amps, but that is only my wild, seat-of-the-pants guess.

Instead of guessing, of course, what we need to do is to measure the current. This is especially important because we have seen evidence in highly driven flashlights that CR123A batteries often exceed the maximum continuous discharge currents they are designed for.

By the way, CR123A can be used safely in all of the flashlights you mention. The trick is keep them on medium and low. It is only the highest modes that pull too much current.
 
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CelticCross74

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been running this fantastic TAC off of 2xCR123's since I got it and so far no problems. It cranks. This is one bright light! I wish I had a light box to get some measurements. I will also say that the TAC devours CR123's on high and turbo. I got a couple boxes of Titanium's and Panasonics just to test how well they do across a few lights. I would guesstimate the TAC is pushing 1100 lumens OTF off of 2xCR123's. Am once again impressed by Fenix build quality. In hand feel of the TAC is top notch. Anodizing is excellent as usual for Fenix. Actually grown to like the TAC mode as I dont exactly live in a good neighborhood.

I will once again state that in my great CR123 experiment (Chinese vs US) putting Titaniums into my 2014 TK22 produced a startling increase in output. Also have Titaniums in my "850" PD35 and it does produce a visible increase and yes I know I am pushing the lights to their limits...will attempt better TAC shots later finally got my old Canon G10 dialed in for better beam shots.
 

Archangel72

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Nice review. I was thinking this was in my wish list but I just checked NOPE its the PD40.. guess I gotta do more surfing see if I can dig up a review on that light.
 

Octavian

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Good review ;)

I ordered the PD35 XM-L2 U2 (promotional price 50 $) but instead I receive PD35 TAC (same price :) )

Hope to make some pics side by side with Nitecore EC20, but I already notice that the light is a little warmer, overall is more bright (hell is bright !! ) hot spot is more diffuse, get hot later than EC20. I like a lot the 500 lumens level! First level at 1-2 lumens would be nicer...but nothing is perfect :)
 

Burgess

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Great Review here !


Thank you for your Time and Effort here !


lovecpf
_
 
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KeepingItLight

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I will once again state that in my great CR123 experiment (Chinese vs US) putting Titaniums into my 2014 TK22 produced a startling increase in output. Also have Titaniums in my "850" PD35 and it does produce a visible increase and yes I know I am pushing the lights to their limits...will attempt better TAC shots later finally got my old Canon G10 dialed in for better beam shots.

[Emphasis added.]

Nice pics!

You are amazingly knowledgeable and experienced. I would say, however, it is the batteries rather than the lights that you are pushing to their limits. I know that's what you meant.

In case some readers do not already understand what you are talking about, check out this thread detailing what can happen when you use CR123A batteries at current levels that exceed what they are rated for.

Titanium Innovations CR123A Vents with Smoke
 
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Octavian

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At 3,8V (even with a good IMR 18650) can not maintain the ~1000 lumens.

I use IMR 2x18350 configuration, good runtime, full power to the end.

CR123 not recommended at this power...
 
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CelticCross74

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had the TAC since it came out so had it long enough to compare a couple cells. On high and turbo the TAC devoured the Titanium Innovation CR123's in short order although the Titaniums performed well right out the box. Then fresh Panasonic CR123's went in it and they lasted a good bit longer. Now on fresh Duracell CR123's. Also ordered a bunch of Keeppower and Orbtronic new 3500mah GA's and freaking love them. Once the Duracells die Ill throw in a GA. Still do not know enough about 18350's or a reputable source for non xxxFire brands.

The TAC is my 6th 35 (PD/UC) light and the in hand feel of the TAC is the best out of all of them. TAC is noticeably the shortest of them all with the best switch access. Output out of the TAC is very high. Threw in a new 3500mah GA just to do it and visually see no difference from 2xCR. Took awhile to get used to the TAC mode but did. The XP-L LED just for some reason looks so much brighter than the others.
 
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