I don't know, it might well be kind of a tough call at least on low beam. I haven't looked at those two particular lamps so I can't comment specifically, but the H13 lamp has a much larger active reflector area. The quad-beam lamps are almost certainly better on high beam. It'd certainly be possible for either or both of those lamps to be rather bad or objectively good; I'd have to see 'em.
H11 and 9005 upgrade
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Hamilton Felix
Enlightened
I see the point about people not correctly adjusting an inside elevation control. And the bikes sound interesting. My little DL650 has adjustable rear suspension, though it can only do so much if you add a passenger and luggage.
If I ever get time, maybe I'll figure out how to put elevation adjustment on my old 1986 F250, perhaps a hinged custom grille. Tomorrow, on my way home from work I'll swap to the empty F250 (parked at my Rocky Creek house), then go to Darrington Hardware and have them set a 3,400 lb. pallet of concrete mix in the truck. It will go the few blocks home in daylight. I don't know yet if Saturday's schedule will have me leaving for work in darkness or daylight (hope for the latter), but I'll be dropping the heavily loaded truck off on my way. This is precisely the application I had in mind. The ordinarily low aimed lights of the pickup are sure to be aimed high with that load. It would be NICE if a few turns of a knob in the cab could correct the elevation for all front lights.
I recall test driving an Alfa Romeo sedan in 1977. The American market version had quad 5.75" headlights. Small levers just outboard of each high/low headlight were intended to be moved downward if one changed from 1-2 occupants to a full passenger load. In 1978, the same car had self-leveling suspension. I'd go with air lifts on the rear of my truck, too, but air adjustable suspension is not all that common in everyday vehicles. (BTW, shock mounts are not meant to carry weight, so air shocks are more chancy than air bags inside the coil springs.)
Hmm.... looking at the pretty Dodge at the top of the page, noting the depth of the bumper and the lights inset into said bumper. Imagine a bumper that supported both fog and driving lights, and was designed for elevation adjustment. If the bumper brackets were held to the frame with pairs of transverse bolts, it might take only loosening (slightly, then using locknuts) of the lower bolts and replacing the upper bolts with longitudinal threaded adjusters.
If I ever get time, maybe I'll figure out how to put elevation adjustment on my old 1986 F250, perhaps a hinged custom grille. Tomorrow, on my way home from work I'll swap to the empty F250 (parked at my Rocky Creek house), then go to Darrington Hardware and have them set a 3,400 lb. pallet of concrete mix in the truck. It will go the few blocks home in daylight. I don't know yet if Saturday's schedule will have me leaving for work in darkness or daylight (hope for the latter), but I'll be dropping the heavily loaded truck off on my way. This is precisely the application I had in mind. The ordinarily low aimed lights of the pickup are sure to be aimed high with that load. It would be NICE if a few turns of a knob in the cab could correct the elevation for all front lights.
I recall test driving an Alfa Romeo sedan in 1977. The American market version had quad 5.75" headlights. Small levers just outboard of each high/low headlight were intended to be moved downward if one changed from 1-2 occupants to a full passenger load. In 1978, the same car had self-leveling suspension. I'd go with air lifts on the rear of my truck, too, but air adjustable suspension is not all that common in everyday vehicles. (BTW, shock mounts are not meant to carry weight, so air shocks are more chancy than air bags inside the coil springs.)
Hmm.... looking at the pretty Dodge at the top of the page, noting the depth of the bumper and the lights inset into said bumper. Imagine a bumper that supported both fog and driving lights, and was designed for elevation adjustment. If the bumper brackets were held to the frame with pairs of transverse bolts, it might take only loosening (slightly, then using locknuts) of the lower bolts and replacing the upper bolts with longitudinal threaded adjusters.
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Hilldweller
Enlightened
I tried airbags 3 times on the Jeep and they failed every time I got the suspension flexing offroad. It might work better on the PW with the leafsprings in back but I doubt that I'll ever have enough of a load to justify it.Air shocks or air bags(my preference) in the rear + cheapy 12v cigarette lighter tire inflator = manually leveled headlights.Easy enough to run the filler lines to a schrader valve under the rear bumper or some other convenient spot.
Most of the grunt of this truck will be for getting up hills and over rocks while pulling the teardrop.
Diesel_Bomber
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Air bags aren't meant for severe flexing like your Jeep, but quality air bags will absolutely handle all the travel stock leaf springs will allow. It's your truck of course, but to me, enough load to change the aim of the headlights is enough load to justify air bags.
Hilldweller
Enlightened
This is about as "loaded" and it will get.
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Diesel_Bomber
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Yeah, never mind then.
Better than Racing Vision in H7 and X-Treme Vision / Night Breaker Laser in H11?
Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
The very post you quoted said those were the best; knowing -Virgil-'s attention to detail, I'd say they are better than the ones you listed.
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Random Guy
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I'd guess that the Racing Vision and the Night Breaker Laser trade too much lifetime for the mount of extra performance they likely give.
ameli0rate
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My sister's old 1993 Volvo 850 had that.
My 2006 V70 doesn't, but it appears that the US market cars didn't get them and her 850 was Euro-market. Somewhere in the back of my head I seem to recall that all HID-equipped cars in Europe have a level sensor to keep the headlights aimed regardless of weight in the back.
Alaric Darconville
Flashlight Enthusiast
Automatic levelling is required on all low beam light sources producing more than 2000lm. However, most of those systems are static, not dynamic.
A manual control just means everyone's going to crank them one way or another until they *think* they see best that way. Do. Not. Want.
