HDS Systems #23

[LRJ88]

Hello people, it is I, your resident breaker of all things indestructible, coming once more with something which you bloody well shouldn't do if you don't want to face the risk of completely buggering up your flashlight.

Today we'll be having fun trying to switch the boot on a Rotary as well as change a bezel, the bezel being by far the easiest one of the two things done today. You just unscrew the bezel and screw the other one on after making sure you get the o-rings and lens in order.

The pictures after that will show parts of the tailcap being taken apart just as before, and showing some dos and don'ts of this whole operation.

The white plastic disc isn't working on a Rotary, in case you figure you want to install it i'd be very careful to check and see if everything works ok before proper assembly. The PCB and holding ring comes out easily with some snap ring pliers, but be very careful with the PCB so you don't break it.

@Hogokansatsukan You might be interested in the boot itself, it feels swollen compared to the others i have now and it's bulged outwards. I'm no expert on rubber etc. but if i were to guess that it's not so much gas as one side of the boot having more give and the material expanding, causing it to start bulging since it can't just go out on the sides. It'd be worth checking a few of these boots and measuring their diameter after carrying them in a small net bag or similar in a pocket, just to see if different ones act differently after a few months.

 

[aginthelaw]

I did a reset. That got her done

 

[ilikeguns40]

I've had zero issues with the rubber boots on my executives. I mostly run li-ion though if that has anything to do with it.

 

[jon_slider]

In the image it looks like about 3000k.

good eye ;-)

rule of thumb is Dedoming drops Color Temp to about 80%
there is variation as lower outputs drop color temp more,
conversely higher outputs drop tint duv further below the bbl

 

[JohnSmith]

Hello people, it is I, your resident breaker of all things indestructible, coming once more with something which you bloody well shouldn't do if you don't want to face the risk of completely buggering up your flashlight.

Today we'll be having fun trying to switch the boot on a Rotary as well as change a bezel, the bezel being by far the easiest one of the two things done today. You just unscrew the bezel and screw the other one on after making sure you get the o-rings and lens in order.

The pictures after that will show parts of the tailcap being taken apart just as before, and showing some dos and don'ts of this whole operation.

The white plastic disc isn't working on a Rotary, in case you figure you want to install it i'd be very careful to check and see if everything works ok before proper assembly. The PCB and holding ring comes out easily with some snap ring pliers, but be very careful with the PCB so you don't break it.

@Hogokansatsukan You might be interested in the boot itself, it feels swollen compared to the others i have now and it's bulged outwards. I'm no expert on rubber etc. but if i were to guess that it's not so much gas as one side of the boot having more give and the material expanding, causing it to start bulging since it can't just go out on the sides. It'd be worth checking a few of these boots and measuring their diameter after carrying them in a small net bag or similar in a pocket, just to see if different ones act differently after a few months.

Thanks for the pics. So are you saying the white disc will not work on the rotary, or it may work if you assemble it carefully? I've always wondered as my rotary button has a little more travel than I prefer.

 

[Mr. LED]

I've had zero issues with the rubber boots on my executives. I mostly run li-ion though if that has anything to do with it.

I run li-ion too and had problem with two boots.

 

[LRJ88]

Thanks for the pics. So are you saying the white disc will not work on the rotary, or it may work if you assemble it carefully? I've always wondered as my rotary button has a little more travel than I prefer.

In mine it won't work at all, it instead blocks the boot from reaching the switch. If you're able to take it apart safely you might be able to take the tailcap apart and apply a tiny dot of hot glue right onto the nub on the boot, but i can't speak for what effects that'd have afterwards.

 

[bartekreaper]

Hello, I got my HDS Rotary used one in Europe for pretty good money and looking for that imgur image with lumens/steps of new 0.02lm and old 0.08? because mine is from 2012.
I also wanted to ask firmware upgrade is really not possible without sending to HDS?

 

[jon_slider]

got my HDS Rotary

congratulations ;-)
outputs chart:

 

[kerneldrop]

It's still funny to me that you have to crank it up to 20/24 steps on a 200 lumen light to reach 40 lumens.
It's a great light, just unique.

 

[ilikeguns40]

It's still funny to me that you have to crank it up to 20/24 steps on a 200 lumen light to reach 40 lumens.
It's a great light, just unique.

Yet another reason why I prefer the clicky

 

[jon_slider]

20/24 steps on a 200 lumen light to reach 40 lumens.

;-)
not only that, the dial can ramp down too

there are 10 levels below 1 lumen,
perfect when spending the night in a cave,
(or other clandestine activities) LOL!

I prefer the clicky

The clicky is a solid 4 mode light, I trust it will serve you well for a long time

fwiw, the yellow highlights on the output chart show the 4 default modes of a clicky, eg a 250 lumens model:
1 clic = 9 lumens
2 clic = 49 lumens
3 clic =0.33 lumens
hold for 250 lumens

on my clicky, I program triple clic to strobe, and I give up the 0.33 output.

I find strobe handy when Im a pedestrian in a crosswalk, which happens more frequently than being a pedestrian in a cave.. lol

I prefer the rotary,
Im not limited to those 4 clicky modes, I can reach any of the 24 levels with the rotary dial

that means the rotary can have 3 extra clicky modes

I can use the 2 clic and 3 clic modes for blinkies, like tactical strobe on 3 clic, and bike strobe on 2 clic.. I could even put strobe on press hold, if Im willing to trade instant access to high, for instant access to strobe.

the HDS UI is very versatile

 

[Fuchshp]

Is that boot problem such an issue really? And widepread?

My wife has a Rotary since many years with no problems. I was thinking about buying one for myself too. But now I'm undecided between the Clicky and the Rotary.

 

[LRJ88]

Is that boot problem such an issue really? And widepread?

My wife has a Rotary since many years with no problems. I was thinking about buying one for myself too. But now I'm undecided between the Clicky and the Rotary.

It is in some cases, it's a mystery as to why though, it seems it's a coin toss with the flat boots and some don't have any issues whatsoever while other swell and crack in months.

 

[desert.snake]

Has anyone tried to install Malkoff caps on HDS? I wonder if it will fit in diameter and height. I have a suspicion that McGizmo and Gene have the same source for these caps and they practically do not deteriorate over time

 

[LRJ88]

Has anyone tried to install Malkoff caps on HDS? I wonder if it will fit in diameter and height. I have a suspicion that McGizmo and Gene have the same source for these caps and they practically do not deteriorate over time

The Malkoff one isn't as good a fit, it feels squishier too with it being slightly taller and not hitting quite right.

 

[ilikeguns40]

I bet the dark sucks boots will work better than mclickys if they fit. They have a post in the middle of boot that would hit the switch on hds, meaning way less travel if not any.

Premium Tailcap Boot – darksucks.com

Tailcap Boot Heaven...if there is such a thing Custom molded logo buttons to personalize your Alpha or other compatible light This is a standard 14mm switch boot made of injection molded silicone rubber. The inside of the boot contains a "nub" that can be trimmed to length to suit your...

darksucks.com

 

[Fuchshp]

I think I'd go for the NB35 as I like a warmer tint better. And maybe I'll just choose the raised button to avoid the button problem altogether. The only reason to choose the flat button would be tail standing which of course is a good thing.

Would you recommend me a Clicky or a Rotary?

 

[Mr. LED]

Rotary is my favourite.

 

[scalpel_ninja]

I think I'd go for the NB35 as I like a warmer tint better. And maybe I'll just choose the raised button to avoid the button problem altogether. The only reason to choose the flat button would be tail standing which of course is a good thing.

Would you recommend me a Clicky or a Rotary?

If you get the clicky, you'll be able to service the button on your own. With the rotary, it'll take some skill, finesse, and quite a bit of courage to open it up.