Received my Clicky 200T yesterday, and so far I'm really enjoying the UI. I couldn't put the light down yesterday so I ended up reprogramming it to suit me better. Can someone post a picture of the HDS decorative pocket clip? The included pocket clip leaves a lot to be desired.
HDS Systems EDC # 16
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Thanks for the great photos! Looks like the decorative clip isn't going to be any easier to get onto my pocket than the standard clip. I was hoping it was bent upwards a little more, like the Moddoo clip. Really wanted a black clip to go with the bezel. Guess I'll have to settle for the Prometheus clip.....
The HDS decorative clips are available in both stainless and black. I have the black ones and never had a problem getting it into my pocket. Seems to slide in easily all the time.
That's what I had my heart set on, a black HDS clip. I'm in Florida and wear shorts most of the year. The lack of "curl" at the end of the HDS clip would be problematic with some of my shorts. I appreciate all of the help. I'm not sure how they can make such an amazing light and then fail so badly on something as simple as a pocket clip..... Don't get me wrong, this will not be my last HDS light!
I have "tweated" many a pocket clip to fit my needs. Tighter-Looser- More curl/Less curl.
A little electrical tape to prevent a scratch (if an issue. clips get scratched) and ease the tip of the curl "up" a bit.
IMO - slight mods to make something better suited to ones needs makes the Hobby more personal.
A little electrical tape to prevent a scratch (if an issue. clips get scratched) and ease the tip of the curl "up" a bit.
IMO - slight mods to make something better suited to ones needs makes the Hobby more personal.
Received my Rotary which I ordered about a year ago to replace a defective 170T. In comparison I'd say I like the beam pattern of the Rotary but preferred the more neutral tint of the GDP 170T. The bezel of the Rotary is aligned with the body of the light better, the 170T was slightly misaligned although it had no effect on the light. The Rotary bezel is also thicker, I have a SF diffuser cap that fit very loosely onto the 170T but is very snug on the Rotary. I also prefer the flush tail cap of the Rotary to the raised of the 170T, having the ability to tail stand, albeit wobbly, is a plus too. I'm thinking the flush tail cap will be more robust as well, the raised button on my 170T tore along the side and started to resemble a broken eraser on a pencil, probably from the stress put on the sides when depressing the button from different angles. The little screw on the tail cap of the Rotary doesn't bother me, although I thought it would, but the lack of a pocket clip, at the least to act as an anti roll device does. Overall I like it however the long wait and the fact that it's a warranty replacement made receiving it a little less cool then the first time. Quick runtime tests with RCR123s (AW) gave 0:31 on max (burst disabled) and 1:09 on high, primaries are next and results should be better. The only issue I had was when I ran the RCR123 down to the lowest level and the light started blinking I did a battery change to a fresh CR123 yet the light continued to blink on low and not recognize the new battery. Opening and closing the light fixed it but I was surprised it didn't instantly sense the voltage change, I'll have to watch that.
doctordun
Enlightened
I have a "raised" button Hi CRI on order and have Surefire lights with raised buttons.
Is the rubber tearing an issue I should be concerned with? Should I have a spare on order?
IDK, mine tore after about two years of use although I used it often for work. I think some of us had issues but not many, I wouldn't be concerned. I was just saying that based on what I see about the two button styles the flush should be less prone to side tearing, just my opinion though.
Just bringing to your attention that even the rubber hood on any Surefire light may tear given prolonged and frequent use over the years.
There are more reports of users with the rubber tearing on the flushed tail cap than there are those with the raised ones.
I recall an issue with the flush caps 'cracking' but that was quite a while ago and I though HDS resolved it. Is that still an issue?
The cracking up can never be resolved. Wear and tear would happen with frequent use, especially so with a much thinner material than the raised tail cap.
Random Dan
Flashlight Enthusiast
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I think there was a batch a while ago that had a problem with dry rot. Check out this thread: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?299058-RA-Clicky-TailCap-Rubber-Dry-Rot
stoli67
Enlightened
RA Clicky diffuser anyone
So I just completed my first runtime test with the Rotary (200 lumen) using a new primary. On high with burst enabled it ran for 1:27 before dropping a level. It then ran for the following periods for each following level:
4:15 (100 lumens)
3:44 (70 lumens)
3:22 (50 lumens)
4:09 (35 lumens)
In comparison to the 170T the Rotary is running about 10 minutes less on high and dropping quicker at the subsequent levels then the 170T, I'll have to do the test again to see, maybe it was the battery (I hope so:sigh
.
The other odd thing was the low battery indicator never blinked. In the manual it states the light will double blink once every two minutes when the light drops a level and can no longer sustain the selected output to indicate battery replacement. This was how my 170T operated. Now on line it says something slightly different, that the low battery indicator starts to double blink when the light can no longer sustain a minimal of 55 lumens. My rotary is now below the 25 lumen output level and no double blinks. Anyone know why that may be and which definition of the low battery indicator is correct, below 55 lumens or below selected output?
4:15 (100 lumens)
3:44 (70 lumens)
3:22 (50 lumens)
4:09 (35 lumens)
In comparison to the 170T the Rotary is running about 10 minutes less on high and dropping quicker at the subsequent levels then the 170T, I'll have to do the test again to see, maybe it was the battery (I hope so:sigh
.The other odd thing was the low battery indicator never blinked. In the manual it states the light will double blink once every two minutes when the light drops a level and can no longer sustain the selected output to indicate battery replacement. This was how my 170T operated. Now on line it says something slightly different, that the low battery indicator starts to double blink when the light can no longer sustain a minimal of 55 lumens. My rotary is now below the 25 lumen output level and no double blinks. Anyone know why that may be and which definition of the low battery indicator is correct, below 55 lumens or below selected output?
plaguem
Enlightened
Quality of the Four(4) I have taken delivery of recently is exemplary. ALL tailstand (without wobble) ALL the LEDs are perfectly centered and the F&F is perfect. Time will tell but, the rubber caps seem very robust .
If you ever plan on getting rid of the one with the golden dragon emitter, please keep me in mind
Awesome collection. Are they ACME threaded ?
archimedes
Flashaholic
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