HDS Systems EDC # 16

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Hogokansatsukan,

If an 18650 tube is in the works what would be the point of a separate 17670 tube? Wouldn't the 18650 tube accommodate both cells? Also, HDS lights aren't very module, for example if I have a Rotary light and currently want a Clicky battery tube as an addition, it won't work with the Rotary head. I think this limits the overall versatility, do you foresee this changing in the future?
 
So many questions for something that isn't even available yet. If you want to know how long the additional tubes will be just take the length of a current 123 model and add either 35mm for an 18650 or an additional 65mm for 2AA. That's 1.38 and 2.56 inches respectively.
 
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A AA tube is currently in the works as is a 18650. Yes. 18650. It could be several months though before they are in full production.

Is the 17670 tube currently in production ? Just hoping for a tube sooner than later. Thanks brother!
 
Didn't know there was a thread on tactical strobe.
Since my HDS is the first light that I have ever had that has one, I thought this might be the place to ask.
Please forgive my gross ignorance.
 
Hogo,

The new Tactical model looks great. I have read the manual for both the Tactical and the Rotary several times each, and am having a tough time picking one. (I know, get both!!)

Here is my one wish, and I would really appreciate it if you could pass this suggestion on to Henry...


I wish there was a way to implement "rotary brightness control" in the Tactical model. I realize that this would be difficult to do, because the Tactical MUST be able to function exactly as expected under stress, and be easy to operate.

My proposed solution to add "rotary brightness control" without affecting "tactical" functionality:

1) The light must be ON, and in preset C or D ("non-momentary" or "latching").

2) Rotary brightness control could then be accessed by a series of clicks (the click sequence should not be stumbled upon accidentally, but also should not be too complicated)

3) While you are in "rotary brightness control" mode, the button should act exactly as if the light were OFF. This way, you would always know exactly what to expect.


You could go DIRECTLY to the mode you want with just a twist and a single press of the button, just like the light were off. No compromises of the tactical functionality.

Based on the position of the rotary knob, when you click the button, it would either go to A (momentary), B (momentary), C (latching), or D (latching).

You could also enable all of the "From Off" click sequences while in the "rotary brightness control" mode, but I think that would be unnecessary since none of them are tactically critical.

The downfall is that there would be no "direct" access to turn the light off from the "rotary brightness control" mode, but that's an easy trade off. You could just click and release in one of the momentary positions (A or B) and it would just turn on momentarily, then turn off.

I realize that the programming in Henry's lights is very complicated, and I could be missing something and this may not be possible.

Sorry for the lengthy post... Carry on!
 
Didn't know there was a thread on tactical strobe.
Since my HDS is the first light that I have ever had that has one, I thought this might be the place to ask.
Please forgive my gross ignorance.
I just sent you a couple links to some of the more recent ones and I think you'll find not only a lot of information, but some widely varying perspectives.

It seemed like a harmless enough question, but things have gotten really hot in the past over this subject.
 
Didn't know there was a thread on tactical strobe.
Since my HDS is the first light that I have ever had that has one, I thought this might be the place to ask.
Please forgive my gross ignorance.

Nothing to forgive brother.
I've used strobe from time to time.
A few times at work when we call an ambulance for someone. There's along street to our entrance and the paramedics
tend to turn down the wrong block. Strobe always helps lead the way.


Another time when I drove by a bad car accident. I pulled over to assist and
used the strobe to alert oncoming traffic. Strobe aimed alone the road worked like a charm.


It's good to have in my opinion.
 
The red will give you longer run time at the higher output. The black will give you higher run time at lower output. It depends how you use your light. If you are going to run your light on high settings, the red battery is better to use. Lumen output does not change with either battery.

Can you share with us how you arrive to this conclusion?
 
Not sure if it helps but Henry mentioned the following with regards to battery type in post #3914:

Runtimes are quite specific to batteries and power draw. Per our FAQ and battery discussion, different batteries will provide "better" performance under different circumstances - not to mention how "old" the battery is. If you favor higher outputs, the AW orange (IMR) 123 batteries will outperform the black "protected' 123 batteries. If you favor lower output levels, the reverse is true. Unfortunately, there is no clear winner under all conditions. Each type of battery has its strengths and weaknesses.
 
Hogo,

The new Tactical model looks great. I have read the manual for both the Tactical and the Rotary several times each, and am having a tough time picking one. (I know, get both!!)

Here is my one wish, and I would really appreciate it if you could pass this suggestion on to Henry...


I wish there was a way to implement "rotary brightness control" in the Tactical model. I realize that this would be difficult to do, because the Tactical MUST be able to function exactly as expected under stress, and be easy to operate.

My proposed solution to add "rotary brightness control" without affecting "tactical" functionality:

1) The light must be ON, and in preset C or D ("non-momentary" or "latching").

2) Rotary brightness control could then be accessed by a series of clicks (the click sequence should not be stumbled upon accidentally, but also should not be too complicated)

3) While you are in "rotary brightness control" mode, the button should act exactly as if the light were OFF. This way, you would always know exactly what to expect.


You could go DIRECTLY to the mode you want with just a twist and a single press of the button, just like the light were off. No compromises of the tactical functionality.

Based on the position of the rotary knob, when you click the button, it would either go to A (momentary), B (momentary), C (latching), or D (latching).

You could also enable all of the "From Off" click sequences while in the "rotary brightness control" mode, but I think that would be unnecessary since none of them are tactically critical.

The downfall is that there would be no "direct" access to turn the light off from the "rotary brightness control" mode, but that's an easy trade off. You could just click and release in one of the momentary positions (A or B) and it would just turn on momentarily, then turn off.

I realize that the programming in Henry's lights is very complicated, and I could be missing something and this may not be possible.

Sorry for the lengthy post... Carry on!

It's already being worked on. It's the next step in evolution for the Tactical.
 
Hogokansatsukan,

If an 18650 tube is in the works what would be the point of a separate 17670 tube? Wouldn't the 18650 tube accommodate both cells? Also, HDS lights aren't very module, for example if I have a Rotary light and currently want a Clicky battery tube as an addition, it won't work with the Rotary head. I think this limits the overall versatility, do you foresee this changing in the future?

The heads are actual identical but the programing differs. The rotary has a little brain of it's own in the tail, and it is a programing nightmare to get one head that will work with both. Having said that, I don't doubt Henry could do it, but there are so many other things taking up his time that I don't think it will be a hurdle he wants to leap anytime in the near future.
 
Didn't know there was a thread on tactical strobe.
Since my HDS is the first light that I have ever had that has one, I thought this might be the place to ask.
Please forgive my gross ignorance.

Not a problem. Everything so far has been 12hz but will probably move to 16hz in the future.
 
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