I was quite surprised to hear that as well.
Cheers Croquette thank you. Choices, choices. I love my Rotary 170 Nichia 219B but wondered what GDP was like.
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Gdp on the left, nichia on the right. Gdp throws very well but nichia is so beautiful
Sorry for the crappy picture taken with my phone.
".... Spill is going to be the same as the bezel and reflector geometry is the same."
Not sure I agree with this last part since spill is the uncollimated light coming directly off the emitter and is unaffected by the reflector - you can see this by shining the light toward you and moving your eye through the beam. If the emitter is producing twice the lumens, the spill will be twice as bright.
Perhaps he was referring to the size of the spill beam since he started off talking about the size of the hot spot?
Think about how you will use this light the most and if outdoor distance is the most important probably going with the XP-G2 250 option will be better.
You have to keep in mind the XP-L has a bigger die size than the XP-G2. Even if the reflector is the same it will have a bigger hot spot and more light in the spill. That just the nature of reflections in a focused parabola. The true focus point is an infinitely small point and anything outside of that will reflect at a wider angle than the focus point thus giving you the bigger spot and more light in the spill.
In the case of the HDS light I don't think the difference between 250 and 325 is enough for the close-up spill to ruin the distance viewing that much. The larger spot and lower lux is what will have the greatest impact.
Think about how you will use this light the most and if outdoor distance is the most important probably going with the XP-G2 250 option will be better.
I used to like clips, and still like some, but having lost two of my favorite lights over the years have a strong preference to medium-deep pocket carry with a recovery lanyard.I don't use a clip, but the more photos I see of it. The more I'm liking it.
I hear you're starting a poll thread so I can vote in it. :wave:I like the make-out mode, but I agree, on future software releases, I think a slightly dimmer locator beacon and make-out modes would be preferable.
How much would a ti hds cost?
Best guess is between $500 and $1000. It's not going to be cheap, that's for sure.
Henry said that the original pricing of $650 would be undoable and that guesses close to the four figure mark will be much closer than the rest.The original run of Titanium RaClicky's were being sold for 650.00.....
I would guess the newer ones would be between 800 and 1,000. But that's just a guesstimate
+1They most definitely are. The Olive Drab and the Flat Dark Earth and both calling my name. Curious to see how they wear over the next 6 months or so when hopefully the 18350 battery tubes and the updated hardware will be available.
That Henry, thinks of everything.Yes, I calibrate many of the lights and help Henry put them together at times, HOWEVER, Henry made the calibrator so simple that even a guy who believes a little elf lives in each light, can operate it.
I have not put down my prototype 17670 tube since I snagged it a while back.
It satisfied my hunger for an AMCE threaded extended tube.
Dan, I'm assuming the 18650 tubes are wider than the proto 17670 I have ?
Or do they look similar?
Thanks !
Shame the LE is gone. I guess we can always program an Executive like an LE. Here's the specs.
Turns on to: 110 lumens, runtime: 2.75 hours (tactical), 3.75 hours (ANSI).
Press-and-hold: 250 lumens, runtime: 1.65 hours (tactical), 2.0 hours (ANSI).
Thanks.
Double-click: 9 lumens, runtime: 30 hours (ANSI).
Triple-click: Tactical Strobe, runtime: 6.75 hours (tactical), 9 hours (ANSI).
Cheers Croquette thank you. Choices, choices. I love my Rotary 170 Nichia 219B but wondered what GDP was like.
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I prefer to use the 3700k HCRI both indoors and outdoor. I really do not like warm lights, but the XP-G HCRI HDS grew on me. The throw in this light is pretty decent too.