thermal guy
Flashaholic
Lol I would think a spark shooting out of your HDS could very well be a possible issue.😊
HDS Systems EDC #22
- Thread starter Hogokansatsukan
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usdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
Somehow can't find my post but the spark was only a small one and it's not something I figure will reoccur but it's the first time ever to see that
thermal guy
Flashaholic
Is the cell ok?
usdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
Got it right next to me on mosquito watch! The cell is up enough it's not ramping down from high
archimedes
Flashaholic
Uhhh, yeah. I think I'm gonna go with "possible issue" too.
usdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
I ll keep an eye on it. AW may need retiring
thermal guy
Flashaholic
Check with HOGO. might be part of a new software update😂😂
Hogokansatsukan
Flashlight Enthusiast
I don't think AW ever had INR. If it is red, it is an IMR. Never heard of this happening as well but sounds more like a battery short somehow.
jimmy1970
Flashlight Enthusiast
Henry kindly sent me a few spare tail cap rubber buttons for my Clicky a number of years ago and after slowly going through and replacing each one as they split, I've finally got cracks in my last one! Anyone else having this issue? I've avoided getting a Rotary due to the added difficulty in replacing the tail cap rubbers.
I don't use the light around chemicals or subject it to heavy usage. I've had to retire it lately due to possible water ingress.
I guess I'll have to request more!
I don't use the light around chemicals or subject it to heavy usage. I've had to retire it lately due to possible water ingress.
I guess I'll have to request more!
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usdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
Well,
Battery still working. Definitely AW, and I bough it new from a vapor dealer in the UK, got all the factory clothing, holographic stickers, etc.
Not something I m worried about it was just really weird to see... if I stop posting all of a sudden without warning you ll know why!!!
Lithium466
Enlightened
Something I discussed with Henry a few years ago. From memory, he said there was a few possible causes, like user putting his nail to push the button instead of the "flat" of the finger.
He also said some from the same manufacturer, same material, etc will crack, some won't. He didn't seem open to some other fancy silicone style (or other material) buttons (which could come in different colors, including GITD), I guess because of mechanical resistance, and also maybe availability by a US manufacturer ?
In my case I think I've narrowed it down to tailstanding, after a few months the button starts to bulge and touches when you tailstand the light, causes some abrasions on the rubber boot, etc.
Really don't know but I too had a few to replace over the years, generally when they start bulging, they are on their way out. Actually the last one was two years ago, and it's still going strong so far.
(also I tried various homemade buttons, rubber, silicone, etc. It works but none have the elegance of the original flat one)
PS : also some tails have a wider gap between the rubber boot and the actual electronic switch, it varies from tail to tail, maybe the bigger the activation distance, the bigger the mechanical fatigue on the boot ? I have seen lights from many manufacturing batches I think.
Modernflame
Flashlight Enthusiast
On the positive side, it's impressive that the switch is so long lived that it can repeatedly wear out the rubber switch boots. I would think that the raised buttons are more robust, right?
Does the issue also stem from wear on the under side of the button caused by the e-switch itself? Would the white plastic disc extend the life of the button?
At any rate, the buttons are inexpensive to replace.
Does the issue also stem from wear on the under side of the button caused by the e-switch itself? Would the white plastic disc extend the life of the button?
At any rate, the buttons are inexpensive to replace.
peter yetman
Flashlight Enthusiast
Presumably, you use the switch on a Rotary much less than on a clicky?
P
P
RCS1300
Flashlight Enthusiast
AW has not made new batteries in 2-3 years. If you purchased it new recently, it is very likely not an AW battery. I would recommend not using any AW batteries unless you have personally owned them at least 2 years.
usdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
RCD all my AW batteries are proper and I ve had them a while... I think I bought them not long before they quit making. I m going to test the voltage and the percentage on it and the exposure battery... both need recharging anyway as they are stepping down. Will report back soon
thermal guy
Flashaholic
A small cut or nick in the protected sleeve might do this as well.
usdiver
Flashlight Enthusiast
Checked it no breaches. I think just a one off freaky thing that doesn't want to happen again. Voltage 0% @ 2.89V
That also tells me that my aws' when running down to lockout in the first lights the chargers percent reads 0% but is around 2.8V in the 16340s'
At this point in the HDs the light is stepping down very quickly
That also tells me that my aws' when running down to lockout in the first lights the chargers percent reads 0% but is around 2.8V in the 16340s'
At this point in the HDs the light is stepping down very quickly
I need help from guru's here. Got this oldtimer Ra Every Day Carry SN 8112 and according to Ra/HDS SN registry thread it's 120C version. But emitter according to my limited knowledge is Luxeon K2 and label says P4...
Any help is apreciated.
Any help is apreciated.
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WarriorOfLight
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yes the LED in the Picture is a Luxeon K2 LED. But my guess is someone changed the LED from SSC P4 to Luxeon K2. Normally the Luxeon K2 housing is a housing with a square shape, the SSC P4 is in a housing with a round shape.
Luxeon K2:
SSC P4:
On the Picture you made, you can see someone "nibbled" on the housing of the Luxeon K2 LED to make it fitting into the head of your light. Believe me Henry would never make something like that on a HDS product.
But at all the Luxeon K2 LED is a good LED. If the light is working perfectly I would not mind, if the LED is a P4 or a K2...
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archimedes
Flashaholic
I don't know all of the details on the labeling codes, but bezels and emitters do get changed and replaced fairly commonly around here.
EDIT - well, WoL was both quicker to reply ... and more helpful
EDIT - well, WoL was both quicker to reply ... and more helpful
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