It's here the Zebralight SC5C MK II H CRI

[Tixx]

The high CRI wasn't enough for me. I replaced it with the SC5w II and I can't tell a difference in CRI. I do like the 4500K instead of 4000K.

Great, and I ordered the 4000k high cri just this moring.

 

[snowlover91]

I think the negative feedback early on definitely hurt this light's reputation (at least on C.P.F.) It's a shame because it's VERY well constructed and feels great in the hand. However, it's a light advertised to have a "top level" tint, so you would think Zebralight might have inspected the quality BEFORE shipping.

The tint is as expected from a Cree 4000k LED. It has a slight yellow tint to it because of where it falls on the BBL. Some are so accustomed to the Nichia tint that the yellow tint is a turnoff. By contrast, I find it does a great job representing colors extremely well. If you shine it on a white wall and look closely, you'll see a hint of yellow. I prefer to use my lights and it outperforms my other Zebralights for color rendering, especially outdoors. In fact, I would say it does even better than Nichia outdoors, specifically with anything green or brown. Foliage really stands out, wood grain looks excellent. It's a great tint with excellent CRI, just something that some people don't like.

Tixx, I think you'll enjoy this light Once you receive it be sure to let us know how it is!

 

[ven]

Interesting stuff, my 1st ZL and xp-l2 easy white(does anyone know if this is a quad die like the previous easy white?). My sample is certainly towards the yellow side, reminds me a little bit of the 219c 4000k(which is also towards yellow). Colours look good, cant see here in this hot spot pic though


However a few days of use, its gone from an instant like to a love. My next ZL will have a bigger tank(18650) , maybe an xhp50 in the sc600Fd mk III which would suit me well.
Its not often i take a light in work and use it, then bring it home to use.................then back in work next day for use and home again!

 

[scs]

It would be even sweeter if ZL offered an optional tailcap with strong magnet.
And a flanged bezel ring with a lip that covers the edge of the head.

 

[ven]

It would be even sweeter if ZL offered an optional tailcap with strong magnet.
And a flanged bezel ring with a lip that covers the edge of the head.

Agree, that would certainly have its uses. The bezel ring is proud by a few thou, but i admit i wondered why they designed it this way. Would have been better for more protection to cover the whole edge.............maybe design/looks over bullet proof won.

 

[emarkd]

However a few days of use, its gone from an instant like to a love. My next ZL will have a bigger tank(18650) , maybe an xhp50 in the sc600Fd mk III which would suit me well.
Its not often i take a light in work and use it, then bring it home to use.................then back in work next day for use and home again!

Careful, Zebras tend to be very addictive.

 

[ven]

:laughing: It may be too late emarkd Just pondering over my next one, maybe just get a couple, xhp35 neutral and xhp50 . Love your collection by the way , awesome!

 

[TCY]

:laughing: It may be too late emarkd Just pondering over my next one, maybe just get a couple, xhp35 neutral and xhp50 . Love your collection by the way , awesome!

ZL plans to release a 18650 based MK4 model later this year, hopefully a high CRI light. Remember to apologize to your wallet.:naughty:

I believe the XP-L2 easywhite is just a normal die unlike its XM-L2 equivalents as old easywhite models are separately listed by CREE and there's only one XP-L2 listing which includes easywhite options.

 

[ven]

Thanks TCY, so it looks like i still need to get hold of an xm-l2 easy white then(not got but want to try out). I could not make a quad die out on the xp-l2, but as with the xhp35 , i thought it may be hard to tell if makes sense(die close together).

mk4 ............mmmm I know i would defo like the mk3, the mk4 may have the newer xhp50.2 of which i am not convinced on so far. By that i mean ct/tint which seems at the expense of a little more output. No actual experience of the newer .2's, just what i have read so far. I do have the xhp35 HI 5000k and that is a very nice ct/tint imo. So a NW xhp50 i would like to think would suit me pretty good

 

[TCY]

My guess is that ZL wouldn't put XHP50.2 in their headlamp and SC64, the XP-L2 easywhite would be a more convincing candidate as ZL is focusing more and more on tint variation and CRI. If you are dead set on an XM-L2 easywhite, the H600Fd/c are decent choices but they come with a frosted lens to smooth out the beam artifacts.

 

[ven]

Yes, will i am looking at the sc600fd mkIII as the floody beam suits my general uses(home or work). Just hope i can get hold of one UK side rather than order from ZL. However if it comes to that i will do.

Used the xp-l2 easywhite last night a bit, although it is not my preferred tint(yellow side), in use its not much of an issue. Just takes a little getting used to from almost perfect white 4500k 219b's or the slightly rosy 219b's. I am one for having a little variety, i dont want all my lights to be the same. For example my xpl HI go from 4000k+, as with my nichia's 4000k-5700k . My sweet spot seems to be 4000-5000k.

 

[vadimax]

Yes, will i am looking at the sc600fd mkIII as the floody beam suits my general uses(home or work). Just hope i can get hold of one UK side rather than order from ZL. However if it comes to that i will do.

Used the xp-l2 easywhite last night a bit, although it is not my preferred tint(yellow side), in use its not much of an issue. Just takes a little getting used to from almost perfect white 4500k 219b's or the slightly rosy 219b's. I am one for having a little variety, i dont want all my lights to be the same. For example my xpl HI go from 4000k+, as with my nichia's 4000k-5700k . My sweet spot seems to be 4000-5000k.

I have purchased my SC5c from eu.NKON.nl. Very competitive prices.

 

[TCY]

Yes, will i am looking at the sc600fd mkIII as the floody beam suits my general uses(home or work). Just hope i can get hold of one UK side rather than order from ZL. However if it comes to that i will do.

Used the xp-l2 easywhite last night a bit, although it is not my preferred tint(yellow side), in use its not much of an issue. Just takes a little getting used to from almost perfect white 4500k 219b's or the slightly rosy 219b's. I am one for having a little variety, i dont want all my lights to be the same. For example my xpl HI go from 4000k+, as with my nichia's 4000k-5700k . My sweet spot seems to be 4000-5000k.

In that case, make sure you can arrange a replacement in case of a bad tint. I ordered directly from ZL and got a greenish sample and ZL happily offered a replacement, no hassle whatsoever.

 

[ven]

Thanks guys, UK side would be flashaholics(great shop), however if no stock come time, then nkon is a good option! Cheers

 

[foopluto]

Hello! Sorry for bad English...

Do you also have this problem?
1. Insert a low cell (below 1.2V, for example);
2. Turn the flashlight on level H1 or H2 (single click);
3. Wait a few minutes: the flashlight switches gradually to level M and finally L (firefly mode);
4. Now from firefly mode: turn off the flashlight;
5. My flashlight does not turn off, but switches in beacon mode (one flash every 4-5 seconds);
6. If you want to turn off the flashlight, you must: wait for it to turn off spontaneously, or unscrew the tailcap. Strange and very annoying!

 

[Swede74]

3. Wait a few minutes: the flashlight switches gradually to level M and finally L (firefly mode)

From Zebralight's website: Automatic stepping down from High to Medium, and from Medium to Low when battery capacity is low

5. My flashlight does not turn off, but switches in beacon mode (one flash every 4-5 seconds)

From Zebralight's website: Low battery alert when the light is switched OFF (LED flashes if the battery voltage is below ~1.06V)

6. If you want to turn off the flashlight, you must: wait for it to turn off spontaneously, or unscrew the tailcap. Strange and very annoying!

I think that is how the flashlight is supposed to behave when a cell that has a low voltage is inserted. I, too, find it somewhat annoying and would prefer if the low battery alert was limited to 30 seconds after the light is switched off. I would not call it a problem though - the alert is there for a reason and it is quite obvious what you have to do to make it go away :laughing:

 

[jon_slider]

Do you also have this problem?
1. Insert a low cell (below 1.2V, for example);

No. I do not try to make a drained battery perform as if it was full, over and over again. This is quite bad for the battery.

Charge your battery! STOP trying to make it produce high mode over and over, when it is drained.

IF Zebralight had given you a LiIon option, and you followed the same misbehavior of repeatedly firing High mode with a drained battery, then the LiIon could potentially erupt in flames the next time you try to charge it.

Fortunately for people who don't understand, yet, that a depleted battery should NOT be repeatedly fired at High mode, the new Zebras don't work with LiIon. So the only damage is that you are destroying your Eneloop, but it won't FlameON!

 

[foopluto]

From Zebralight's website: Automatic stepping down from High to Medium, and from Medium to Low when battery capacity is low



From Zebralight's website: Low battery alert when the light is switched OFF (LED flashes if the battery voltage is below ~1.06V)



I think that is how the flashlight is supposed to behave when a cell that has a low voltage is inserted. I, too, find it somewhat annoying and would prefer if the low battery alert was limited to 30 seconds after the light is switched off. I would not call it a problem though - the alert is there for a reason and it is quite obvious what you have to do to make it go away :laughing:

Thank you for the reply.
Step 3 is perfectly normal, I know the Zebra interface .
The real problem is point 6. OK, you're warning me that the battery is low. But why can not I turn off the flashlight by simply pressing the button? If I do not want to see the flashes again, I have to wait or unscrew the tailcap ... this is illogical.

No. I do not try to make a drained battery perform as if it was full, over and over again. This is quite bad for the battery.

Charge your battery! STOP trying to make it produce high mode over and over, when it is drained.

IF Zebralight had given you a LiIon option, and you followed the same misbehavior of repeatedly firing High mode with a drained battery, then the LiIon could potentially erupt in flames the next time you try to charge it.

Fortunately for people who don't understand, yet, that a depleted battery should NOT be repeatedly fired at High mode, the new Zebras don't work with LiIon. So the only damage is that you are destroying your Eneloop, but it won't FlameON!

Obviously I do not insert batteries clearly exhausted.
The steps I wrote were needed to reproduce the problem easily

 

[Swede74]

Thank you for the reply.
Step 3 is perfectly normal, I know the Zebra interface .
The real problem is point 6. OK, you're warning me that the battery is low. But why can not I turn off the flashlight by simply pressing the button? If I do not want to see the flashes again, I have to wait or unscrew the tailcap ... this is illogical.

I think Zebralights (since the low battery alert was introduced) are supposed to blink every few seconds when battery voltage is low and the flashlight is turned "off". I put "off" in quotation marks because the only way to break the circuit on a Zebralight is to unscrew the tailcap slightly or remove the battery. The electronic switch draws a standby current while waiting for you to press the button. I could be wrong, but I think the reason the blinking sometimes stops after a short while, is the battery recovers enough voltage to get above the low battery warning threshold.

 

[ven]

Can I ask which battery is being used? Simply because depending on cell, the voltage could dip more under load than others.