LED or other upgrades for '91 Dodge Pickup

SubLGT

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...you should be using [a shop that has] an optical aiming machine...

And then you need to find a tech who knows how to use the machine, and will take the time to do a proper job.

You face a similar challenge getting new replacement tires properly match-mounted and properly balanced.
 
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Ofelas

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After aiming them as per the true headlamp centers, VOL, its a totally different headlamp.

I like these so much that I picked up a second pair a few days back for another truck, but my neighbor/buddy wanted that truck & finally grabbed it.

Boxed Evo 8900's with 30 minutes of aim/align time on them anyone?
 
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Ofelas

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So - DRL-1 module questions.

Right now , each side's front turn signal flashes alternate with the same side fender marker.

If I install a DRL-1, would this continue or would the front turn signal and side marker for a given side flash together ?
 
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-Virgil-

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That depends on what you're trying to do with the DRL-1 module. Are you trying to put DRLs on the car, or trying to change the way the side lights operate? It's either/or, depending on how you hook it up.
 
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Ofelas

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Re: What I found on the shelf today in a major auto parts store

To put DRLs on the vehicle.

Would like to keep the flashing sequence stock.

I don't know the technical terms for how they flash, is there a benefit to having the front flash at the same time as the side marker as opposed to front alternating with side?
 

-Virgil-

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All you have to do is hook up the module in a manner so it doesn't interfere with the sidemarkers. If you get it wrong, it will just mean the sidemarkers run full time together with the DRLs. The module has left and right "turn signal in" and "turn signal out" wires. On each side you cut the car's turn signal wire, then the "bulb" end of the cut wire connects to the module's "turn signal out" wire and the "car" end of the cut wire connects to the module's "turn signal in" wire. Just make sure you make that cut "below" the existing tap-in where the sidemarker wire connects to the turn signal wire. That is, as you follow the turn signal wire from the dashboard forward, you should first encounter the sidemarker tap-in, then the cut for the module install.

As far as the alternate-flashing sidemarker: it's legal in North America, but pretty much everywhere else all turn signals (front, side, rear) have to flash in sync with each other, alternate-flash isn't allowed. The idea behind this is a reasonable one: with alternate-flash, from certain angles the turn signal is harder or impossible to see if the sidemarker is close to the turn signal. I'm thinking of the GM Safari/Astro vans as one example. Also, even if that's not the case, on/off flashing means "turn signal". Wig-wag flashing (as the alternating lamps appear from some angles) means "??????". It doesn't matter at angles where you can see only the front turn signal or only the sidemarker, but where you can see both, it makes at least theoretical issues.
 
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Ofelas

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Understood, so hook up near front turn signal before the bumper side Y going to side markers, unless you suggest the side markers run with DRLs.

Next - which one do you suggest -

http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/50481

or

http://www.jwspeaker.com/products/led-auxiliary-lights-model-6048/

Seem to be somewhat comparable in output.

These are higher, but is that necessarily "better" for fogs - http://www.rigidindustries.com/led-lighting/106612

I do prefer the 5k color temp of the JWS over the 6k(?) temp of the Trucklite/Rigids, but I can live with a smaller hole to pop the rigid 50481 in ala frenched LOL.
 
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-Virgil-

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Ofelas

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Ok.

1/ So splice DRL-1 close to the front signal lamps bumper side before the Y to side markers. Weatherproof mini box under battery tray for the module.

2/ I found I don't "need" fog lamps with either TL or JWS headlamps, both with a healthy dose of carrots, but I gotz to keep up with the kool kidz. SAE "approved", of course.

I already frenched in Rigid Dually ambers into the front bumper last year, so swapping them with the Rigid 50481 is a 15 minute bolt in to my MIG'd hidden bracketry + the same Deutsch plugs. The JSW fogs would require a horizontal bumper expansion cut, new plugs (the cheapskates only supply with bare wires) & new bracketry, and its all frozen permafrost out now).

I figure some kind of SAE marking would preemptively placate the onroad enforcers, as this particular vehicle will be driven thus way more this year.
 
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Ofelas

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Which one of these Philips 1157 replacements is the correct one for early 90s Dodge truck tail lamps ?

12899RX2 or 12836REDB2 ?
 
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Ofelas

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Already have the reversing lamps, the linked tail/brake lamps just ordered....
 
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Ofelas

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I finally installed Zevo 1157A in the front signal lamps.

The fill is bright, clear and an almost identical amber to the 2357A I removed.

Not sure if "brighter" but a faster rise time as far as the flashers/hazards.

So far I'm pleasantly surprised, and these should last a bit longer than incandescents with the DRL-1 :)

Aside from the lower amp drain, will all these LEDs really provide more seeing for other drivers compared to 1157A, 3496 and 796?

Not no mention zero deicing capabilities from the Zevo & Extreme Vision LEDs :-D


.4w/1.5w is what the package said.
 
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Ofelas

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"Aside" as in 2 separate situations

1/ I know they draw less current - good
2/ Do they provide more "seeing" for other drivers - maybe? yes? no?

I am leaning towards playing safe & just using 1157A/2357NA LL up front, and 3496 + 796 out back.

The current draw doesn't really bother me that much, all upgraded wiring, headlamp switch ox-garded, spares take a few minutes to change out, and I rarely have the additional load of trailer lighting with this truck.

Safety & visibility is what I'm after.
 
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Bill Idaho

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Is your pickup's alternator having a hard time with the original lighting current draw? I can understand concerns when bolting on a bunch of aftermarket driving lights, such as lights with 100/130 watts ratings, (and mounting a handful of them), but even a stock modern day pickup, if it has AC is usually going to have ample current on tap-especially if all you are changing out are your tail-lights, dash lights, side marker lights, etc. I realize the current drop for some headlight systems can be a concern, but saving .5 of an ampere on a backup bulb or whatever, seems rather moot.
I can understand wanting to change to LED IF for the visual difference reasons. I get that.
 

Ofelas

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Hello Bill, not sure how to do the separated quotes, so I'll answer your queries in point form.

1/ Not concerned about amperage draw at all. I have a 160amp at idle & 220amp max under load alternator, feeding a healthy Odyssey group 31 which tested at about 10% above rated specs. The oem alternator, by the way, was 90amp at idle & 120amp under load

2/ Yes, its my most modern pickup being a 91.5 model. No ignition system, thankfully.

3/ Actually, visually, I cannot stand LEDs. I much prefer incandescents and the warm hue that DC intended before Mercedes & FIAT got their grubby little paws on them.

I would go LEDs on the non headlamp bulbs if others have an easier time seeing me. I only have so many NOS fenders & bumpers.

I do, however, have Rigid dually LED lamps frenched into both bumpers for "fog" and "extra backup lamps" operated by standalone switches.

Thanks, I believe you have just reinforced my conviction to stay with 3496 & 796 on the rear end :)
 
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-Virgil-

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Actually, visually, I cannot stand LEDs. I much prefer incandescents and the warm hue that DC intended before Mercedes & FIAT got their grubby little paws on them.

LOL! This is a joke...right?
 

Alaric Darconville

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Hello Bill, not sure how to do the separated quotes, so I'll answer your queries in point form.
It's pretty easy to do, but I suppose not the most critical skill to have...

Actually, visually, I cannot stand LEDs. I much prefer incandescents and the warm hue that DC intended before Mercedes & FIAT got their grubby little paws on them.
Everyone knows it was Marvel, not DC, who had their efforts stymied by FCA.

Joking aside, I'm sure many of us would appreciate warmer white LEDs, and a slight ramp up/down with LED turn signal, so long as it's still got a faster rise time than incandescent. (There was a time I'd get almost queasy watching certain LED bus/truck turn signals snap on and off so abruptly, but I got used to it.) But lighting first and foremost is a safety thing-- besides, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
 

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