lights you regret buying? why?

[Gilfner]

For me, the one I completely regret is a SF E2D Defender. I don't think it was an led. It was my first attempt to get a belt holster sized edc that was better than a minimag. There was a guy at work selling them as a side business and I thought $100 ish would be worth it for more light that wasn't as fragile. It broke almost right away. I got it fixed and spent an extra $10 to get a SF holster for it. Once I started carrying it, I found that it would drain the batteries in about a month. 2x cr123's per month was for hardly any use was too rich for me. It did get me started investigating other light options which led me here, so that was good.

 

[cyclesport]

I found it nearly impossible to find the (LD120) side button if I had gloves on, and even had a hard time finding it without gloves.

Dave

Dave...

One of the best "mod tips" I got from this forum a few years ago...and something I do with all lights that have hard-to-find by touch, somewhat flush side buttons is to put a drop (or larger blob depending on button size/shape) of clear or colored silicone caulk on the button face...let dry completely, and you have a durable raised surface that can easily be found by touch...and visually if you use a bright color. I also sometimes use an Exacto knife, or razor blade to cut and shape the dried caulk, if I find I added too much height to the button face. It cheap and easy, and with care...the end result looks almost as if the button was manufactured that way, and really works very well to help find the button!:thumbsup:

The caulk sticks very well to rubber buttons, but will also adhere adequately to plastic or metal buttons if the surface is carefully roughened by sand paper or emery cloth first.

 

[SunOfAtom]

Dave...

One of the best "mod tips" I got from this forum a few years ago...and something I do with all lights that have hard-to-find by touch, somewhat flush side buttons is to put a drop (or larger blob depending on button size/shape) of clear or colored silicone caulk on the button face...let dry completely, and you have a durable raised surface that can easily be found by touch...and visually if you use a bright color. I also sometimes use an Exacto knife, or razor blade to cut and shape the dried caulk, if I find I added too much height to the button face. It cheap and easy, and with care...the end result looks almost as if the button was manufactured that way, and really works very well to help find the button!:thumbsup:

The caulk sticks very well to rubber buttons, but will also adhere adequately to plastic or metal buttons if the surface is carefully roughened by sand paper or emery cloth first.

Another excellent idea, thank you. I have a few different colors of both automotive and household silicone sealant here, so I'll give it a shot. I think I'll practice making some button shapes on a disposable surface before moving to the light, to minimize the mess I tend to make with silicone.

Dave

 

[GunnarGG]

The Fenix E05SS. It's a nice enough light, it was supposed to replace my LD01SS on my keys. However, the drill for the split ring is WAY too close to the end of the metal leaving me with a light I don't trust to not fall off my keys. Without a clip this light is now totally useless.

I think an LD01 clip will fit if you want to use it that way.
They don't cost much.

 

[cyclesport]

I think I'll practice making some button shapes on a disposable surface before moving to the light...Dave

Good idea...I think you'll find it works pretty well. Just let the caulk completely cure/dry before attempting to cut or alter it's shape, and you should avoid a mess. Good luck!

 

[Monocrom]

For me, the one I completely regret is a SF E2D Defender. I don't think it was an led. It was my first attempt to get a belt holster sized edc that was better than a minimag. There was a guy at work selling them as a side business and I thought $100 ish would be worth it for more light that wasn't as fragile. It broke almost right away. I got it fixed and spent an extra $10 to get a SF holster for it. Once I started carrying it, I found that it would drain the batteries in about a month. 2x cr123's per month was for hardly any use was too rich for me. It did get me started investigating other light options which led me here, so that was good.

Most likely you got a counterfeit SureFire. (Yes, they do exist.)

Parasidic drain is not an issue the old SF E2D suffered from.

 

[DoctorSolo]

Rayovac Indestructible, purchased as a cheap backup while RMA is pending, is not indestructible. 2nd set of batteries and now there's an bad connection or fried logic issue that causes intermittent flashing, or nothing at all, depending on...whatever.

So to recap-indestructible means destructible. Nitecore EA1 is like gambling, and I got the only Malkoff 6P drop-in with an ugly non-uniform hot spot.

That's 0-2 for flashlights made in china recently bought by me so far. The Malkoff 6P drop-in still does it's job efficiently and the tint is pretty but it's not what I thought it would be.

So that makes, for total buyers remorse, two thirds of what I've gone with so far.

I'm like a magnet for QC issues and broken promises..

 

[Poppy]

Rayovac Indestructible, purchased as a cheap backup while RMA is pending, is not indestructible. 2nd set of batteries and now there's an bad connection or fried logic issue that causes intermittent flashing, or nothing at all, depending on...whatever.
<SNIP>

I'm like a magnet for QC issues and broken promises..

You might try checking to make sure the switch within the tail cap is tight. Pointed tweezers, very fine needle nose pliers, or snap clip pliers work.

 

[Illum]

Not really a light, but the Eagletac Sportac 3xXPG2 drop-in. Why? Its a single mode. way too bright, runtime way too short. Of all the P60 drop-ins I've worked with, this was one single mode light that was not practical.

 

[Gene43]

Rayovac Indestructible, purchased as a cheap backup while RMA is pending, is not indestructible. 2nd set of batteries and now there's an bad connection or fried logic issue that causes intermittent flashing, or nothing at all, depending on...whatever.

So to recap-indestructible means destructible. Nitecore EA1 is like gambling, and I got the only Malkoff 6P drop-in with an ugly non-uniform hot spot.

That's 0-2 for flashlights made in china recently bought by me so far. The Malkoff 6P drop-in still does it's job efficiently and the tint is pretty but it's not what I thought it would be.

So that makes, for total buyers remorse, two thirds of what I've gone with so far.

I'm like a magnet for QC issues and broken promises..

Please give us a call about the Malkoff M61 Dropin. We will repair/replace as necessary. NO CHARGE.

Thanks,
Gene Malkoff

 

[cliwilnew]

Not really a light, but the Eagletac Sportac 3xXPG2 drop-in. Why? Its a single mode. way too bright, runtime way too short. Of all the P60 drop-ins I've worked with, this was one single mode light that was not practical.

I definitely agree with the limitations of the single-mode ET drop-ins. However, I have the triple Nichia 219 in a Malkoff MD2 with hi/low switch so it has a low setting and that makes it a useful drop-in for me. With that setup I'm happy because the tint and beam profile are nice and the price is right.

 

[Naam Penn]

The flashlight I can't recommend is a thrower, but not in a good way . . . as is throw away. I came to the forum looking for ideas to replace a dead AAA light and saw this thread so am reporting that my L3 Illumination L08 with a Nichia 219 turned into a serious pocket heater. It wasn't on, it just shorted out and got very hot. Something is now fried and it won't light up, but it is a good pocket heater now. I loved the light color, multi-mode etc. I had it for less than 6 months. I have never had a failure like this with many lights. The anodizing is a disappointment too. I did get the silver version which doesn't show as much as others.

If not for the failure and anodizing it was a nice light.

 

[DoctorSolo]

You might try checking to make sure the switch within the tail cap is tight. Pointed tweezers, very fine needle nose pliers, or snap clip pliers work.

Thanks but everything is tight. I carefully removed the clicky and reinstalled it tight. No joy. This one's going back to Home Depot.

Please give us a call about the Malkoff M61 Dropin. We will repair/replace as necessary. NO CHARGE.

Thanks,
Gene Malkoff

Thanks Gene, that is really awesome CS(everyone else take note, this drop-in issue is probably a FLUKE), I'll consider it but I'm REALLY tired of mailing things around and it's the only flashlight I've got that works right now.

 

[Toohotruk]

Thanks but everything is tight. I carefully removed the clicky and reinstalled it tight. No joy. This one's going back to Home Depot.



Thanks Gene, that is really awesome CS(everyone else take note, this drop-in issue is probably a FLUKE), I'll consider it but I'm REALLY tired of mailing things around and it's the only flashlight I've got that works right now.

Is it an M60, or a version of the M61? The M60s didn't have nearly as pretty a hotspot as the M61s. Difference being, the M60 used an optic, and the M61s use reflectors...as a result, M61s made "White Wall Hunters" much happier. That may explain the uneven beam pattern your drop-in has. :shrug:

Just a thought.

 

[R.W.D.]

The light i regret would be this coast 1100 lumen zooming light.. Takes nine freakin AA's... NINE AA's!!! That's freaking retarded for just over 1000 lumens dude. it's such a turd. I'm so mad I ever even found this light. I wanna throw it in the road for someone to drive over or take far away from me. "BUNT"
Big
Underwhelming
Nine AA
Turd
is what it is.. Don't buy it it's not worth the $60

 

[N_N_R]

Maglite Solitaire LED - flickers like hell

Maglite Mini LED - same issue

 

[Poppy]

Maglite Solitaire LED - flickers like hell

Maglite Mini LED - same issue

NNR,
You might try some of the suggestions in this troubleshooting thread.

Cleaning threads, tightening connections might work.

 

[chrisbfu]

Maybe it's just luck but my Fenix LD12 has some annoying rattle in the head of the light. This is the second light from them I've had problems with.

 

[Wiggle]

Surefire C2. It is a nice enough looking and feeling light but not worth the cost compared to the other P60 hosts IMO. Costs even more to get it bored out for 18mm cells. The build quality is good but honestly I have Chinese made lights that are just as good in that regard. My Armytek Predator is definitely superior IMO. My recommendation if you're going to play around in the P60 world is just get an L2P or L2T. L2P especially is much more affordable and does not feel any worse than the C2.

I sold mine a good while but owned and used it for a year infrequently.

 

[hazza]

Maybe it's just luck but my Fenix LD12 has some annoying rattle in the head of the light. This is the second light from them I've had problems with.

I'm pretty certain mine doesn't do that, but now you've said it I may have to go and check!

My problem was with the LD15. On paper I much prefer it to the E11 because of the lower low and smaller size, but...

It's easier to unscrew the head too far so that the battery rattles.
There is a lot of travel on the head when turning it on, so it is difficult (for me) to turn it on quickly.
It is easy to partially turn it on, causing it to flicker or change between the modes you want.

I think there would be some good mileage in Fenix creating a new variant of the LD15 with some inspiration from the LD02. As it is, the LD15 is not for me.