Lubrication for flashlights

[The_virus]

Yeah I think the main problem is that many stores will carry stuff you can use, but under different names. Food grade silicone grease, diver's regulator grease, etc.

I went searching yesterday and I found Silicone Lube at Canadian Tire in the automotive section, but it was a spray. I used to work at CT and they did carry the grease in plumbing (I was a hardware dept. guy) but it seems like it's gone! All they had was this mysterious container of "Plumber's grease" which could very well have been silicone but the packaging said absolutely nothing about what it was made from. I didn't want to chance it, so I went to Rona and asked there too.

The guys at Rona recommended some sprays, but I insisted on a grease (they didn't seem to understand that spraying a flashlight could get quite messy, especially for such a delicate and precise application). They ended up recommending "White grease" which they said would lube and be o-ring friendly. The tube says it is sulphonate-based and is good for a wide variety of applications to prevent water and grit entry.

I mentioned Lithium grease before and it seems very similar. One appealing thing about white grease is that it's so easy to find. Canadian Tire actually had tons in automotive, in tubs a little smaller than a margarine container. The older guy at Rona who took over after the younger guy was recommending a spray said that white grease would be "definitely o-ring friendly".

I think I'll head to Home Depot where Pydpiper said he found silicone grease (I'm still annoyed that Canadian Tire appears to have stopped carrying the stuff I personally used to sell to customers). While I'm there I'll ask about white grease being o-ring friendly as a cross-reference or second opinion. I'll update this post with what they say.

 

[wasBlinded]

I think that the "white" grease usually found in auto stores is Lithium grease, and has a petroleum based carrier which might not be flashlight O-ring friendly.

I have some 3M silicone grease that comes in a can with a brush, but I too had a hard time finding this stuff quite a while ago, and I do not remember from whom I purchased it. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[Anglepoise]

I think we need to break this down to threads that are assembled and not touched for a while, and then threads that are continually being turned, as in a tail switch that needs 1/4 turn on and off.

The former can be handled with Nyogel 759g. It is conductive and will not harm 'O'rings. Recommended and used by Surefire, and available online for under $10.00.

Now tailcap threads, where you have 'O' rings and electrical current paths, becomes a little tricky. Here we need a smooth turning tailcap, and in my testing this week, the dive shop silicone grease severely stiffens the threads and makes one hand turn on /off a little more difficult.

Nyogel 759g is even worse and is very 'sticky' and I suspect
will get worse over time. Also in my testing with the dive shop silicone, it was impossible to keep the 'lube' only on the threads and 'o' rings. It gravitated to the switch and silicone is not a good electrical conductor and I do not want it on switch contacts.

I have found one product that looks as if it might work well but will need a few months to see how it holds up.

The product is called 'White Lightning' and probably will be know by mountain bike enthusiasts. It is a wax/Teflon based liquid that is applied in drops. The liquid carrier evaporates in seconds and the solid is left behind.

In my test case, applied on absolutely clean threads, all friction caused by the threads and the tail cap spring were overcome and I was left with a very smooth turning cap.
I kept it off 'o' rings ( very easy to accomplish ) and will see how long my one application works.

So far after 100 on/off cycles, there is no degrade of smoothness and re application would be very easy.

 

[cognitivefun]

I purchased silicon grease "VersaChem" Silicone Brake Grease -- clearly labeled "100% pure silcone grease" -- there are other ones that say they have lithium but this one does not. I presume it is appropriate for O-rings.

 

[chmsam]

This was listed in an old thread, but I'll try to whip it up from memory one mo' time. For what it's worth, this is the way I clean and lube my lights and while it works for me, ymmv. Remember, I've had a long day at work, and this is very serious business, so don't laugh. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif Snickering is OK, but no guffaws. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif

The easy way to go is to get on your bicycle and head out to an auto parts store and amble down (that sounds so cool, doesn't it? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif) to the aisle where they keep the electrical and/or chemical stuff. There you should be able to find a tube of pure silicon grease. Pure silicon grease is what I use, since imho, anything with petroleum products in it could start to rot the o-rings. Others may disagree, but that's my opinion for what is't worth -- which may or not be worth anything but there it is. A small tube of the stuff was under $4, iirc. Now, if you look carefully in the brake repair section, you'll find the exact same tube in a slightly different blister pack. Surprise! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ooo.gif It can cost almost twice as much! There is little or no prestige in spending the extra few dollars, and while it's a free country, the grease is not. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/broke.gif The good news is that little tube will last you a looooonnnnngggg time. If that's the only good news you've had today, you have my sympathy, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/icon23.gif but at any rate a little goes a long way -- I use it sparingly.

First thing I do is to clean the threads and/or the area around the o-ring(s). I use a q-tip or a clean cloth -- NO PAPER! Paper towels, tissues, and napkins are bad, bad mojo, since they can leave itty-bitty abrasive fibers that can mess things up down the line. I use an electrical contact cleaner I found at Radio Shack on the contacts and even on the batteries, but I am careful not to overspray the area. Also, I'm careful to let the cleaner fully dry before lubing and reassembling the light. That can take 5 minutes or more. No huffing. Huffing is stupid and bad for you. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

I use my fingers to apply the lube, but I won't tell which finger -- somethings you have to figure out for yourself --/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif Ha!. As I mentioned before, use it sparingly. You don't need to really trowel it on. If I pull an o-ring, I put a small amount of silicon grease on the o-ring and in the the groove before I slide the o-ring back into position. That done, I re-assemble the light. Btw, if the threads don't want to mesh, turn the thread counter-clockwise until you feel it drop into position and then tighten as normal. If this doesn't work, something is wrong. Remember, never force it -- get a really large hammer. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/twakfl.gif Well, actually, what you should look for is something simple (usually crud in the threads or you're trying to put the wrong part onto the wrong light). /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/ohgeez.gif

Hey, look at it this way, if I screw it up, I've got a great excuse for buying a new light! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/naughty.gif

Now, why is this so wacko? Well, you will remember it now, won't you? So there. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nana.gif

 

[Dr_Joe]

Personally I have found the Nyogel 759 (conductive) gel to be the best single lube solution (threads, O-rings, and contacts) This is the lube SureFire uses.

It has made a couple of really stubborn "problem" lights positively bulletproof reliable ! (These light simply laughed at automotive silicon, food-grade silicon, Radio Shacks "Lube Gel", and Regulator Grease from a dive shop !)

Nye has a new conductive gel product #760, but I haven't tried it yet.

NEVER use WD-40 on a flashlight ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/whoopin.gif

 

[voodoogreg]

[ QUOTE ]
wasBlinded said:
So what does Caig's contact cleaner (I have plenty myself) do to O-rings over time? I would be a little reluctant to leave a palpable amount on my light threads where it might end up degrading the O-rings.

[/ QUOTE ]

I mean after cleaning the O-ring and threads. a very light touch of it on the CONTACT'S only, not as a lube. my point being i never found a lube of any kind including nygel to help
that made a noticable improvment on performance.
So std silicone for ring's, and deox-it or pro gold for contact's - and +. if you never did this to a light, you will see a noticable and visable difference. Nygel is good for use if it get's put on thick or sloppy, so if it migrates to the FL's contact area's it won't affect the FL's
function.
Nice stuff, but imho not needed, and better way's to
improve conductivity.VDG

 

[voodoogreg]

[ QUOTE ]
Dr_Joe said:
Personally I have found the Nyogel 759 (conductive) gel to be the best single lube solution (threads, O-rings, and contacts) This is the lube SureFire uses.

It has made a couple of really stubborn "problem" lights positively bulletproof reliable ! (These light simply laughed at automotive silicon, food-grade silicon, Radio Shacks "Lube Gel", and Regulator Grease from a dive shop !)

Nye has a new conductive gel product #760, but I haven't tried it yet.

NEVER use WD-40 on a flashlight ! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/whoopin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]


I have found on a new in box SF after my cleaing routine, the brand new light was brighter, and smother operating. VDG

 

[J_Roc]

Virus,

I got tired of going to Rona, Home Depot, etc. and trying to explain what I wanted. I was thinking about white lithium grease, but I called a Scuba shop and picked up some silicone grease ($5.99 for 1/2 oz.). It says right on the package that one of its uses is for waterproof flashlights.

Seems to be great so far.

 

[lighten]

Wow! Ok. You guys are awesome. This is the first place I've came across that discusses this subject in debth. There's another out there I'm sure but anyhow. I've got an Armytek Wizard Pro Cree XHP50 warm/usb. I don't ever charge it via usb tho because I believe that use of an external charger with 18650 powered flashlights is just smart. Anyhow, I've had it for over 1.5 years. Great light! Amazing. However I've just noticed on the lens/optic that I've got tiny dots on the inside of what appears to be water. So, I crank it up to Turbo to attempt to evaporate the water. Not to smart. I'm aware. But it did nothing. Even after a good 5 mind on full power. Which caused me to think. What if it was the "Pro Shot Zero Friction"gun oil that I lubed the tail threads with about six months ago??!! Oh no! Well, it doesn't seem to be moving or evaporating, so I guess time will tell. I've enjoyed this headlamp so much, I've been considering getting another anyway. Anyhow.. If any of you had any input it would be greatly appreciated. I've got great honor for flashlight gu rus. I'm trying to learn. Much thanks guys. P✌️

 

[Spartanden]

I had read about a product called Super Lube was good for flashlights... thinking about $6 for a 3oz tube on line. it contains PTFE and says its dielectric and impervious to salt water. I have a tube and use a dab on all my end caps on all my flashlights. No operating issues and you can tell the difference turning the caps.

I know this is an old thread...but check the sticky buttons at the top....there is a sticky on comprehensive lube for flashlights. just sayin.....

 

[archimedes]

This thread is more than a decade old.

Please continue here instead ...

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?126645-Comprehensive-Grease-and-Lube-Thread